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Old 03-16-2014, 07:41 PM   #29
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Flooring renewal in progress alos

We also are renewing the flooring in our 03 Winnebago Journey DL. Removed all the carpet throughout and tile in galley. Used a rotary tool from Home Depot on an angle head grinder to get the thin-set removed. Worked great. As always, the staples were a long haul.
We are using a thick vinyl planking which locks together on all four edges. Had to apply some floor leveling compound to get the wood subfloor level with the metal forward area, also leveled the weld warps on the metal forward area. We will use double sided tape to secure edges at entrance and into bathroom area, otherwise it will be floating.
We decided to remove the bed area so flooring will go under the bed sides to look correct.
Plan to re-carpet the entrance steps to look similar to original.
Big project, not rocket science, but a lot of labor.
Stormalong
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:57 PM   #30
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Durhams- in Lowes/Homey- in paint dept
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:43 AM   #31
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Thanks Ernie, Does Durhams trowel on like the other floor patch and level products like dap and henry's? Thanks, Bruce....
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:59 AM   #32
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:48 PM   #33
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Progress from the weekend

Alrighty. God forsaken staples out. I will refer to the staples holding the luan down as nails actually. They are the type used to nail down hardwood flooring and tore through the luan when I pulled it out. Buh Bye.

Now, if I weren't a glutton for punsihment I would have left the carpet on the slides and in the bedroom where the engine access is. This is going to require a lot of effort to get right, and a lot of expensive stair nose trim, but it will get done right.

A couple of points. On the leading edge of the passenger slides, on the "face" of them, the carpet was attached via two stacked carpet strips. When I pulled the carpet they came too. One of the things I did this weekend in prep for the new floor was attach some 1"x2" on those faces to give the new flooring and trim something to adhere too. Otherwise it was semi irregular aluminum.

I also pulled the seat baseplates. I am not yet 100% sure how I will trim those out when done, but wanted wood underneath them. I may need to buy longer bolts, actually, I am sure I will.

I also removed the seatbelts from the slides.

I spent a good amount of time scraping the floor where the tile was getting it smoothed out. Except for a section under a kitchen cabinet where remnants of luan exist I am good to go. This section of the cabinet "jukes" out a bit and I cannot reach too far under it. Would need to remove slide to get perfection me thinks.

I also prepped the pnuematic stair topper at the entrance. I pulled the carpet, and tested its operation with some sample wood. The platform was 7/16 ply sandwhiched between two layers of 1/8 hard vinyl. I removed the top layer of vinyl as the extra clearance was needed. I will know for sure when the stair nose is installed, but some trial and error will be needed here to make sure the floor clears AND there are minimal gaps. Carpet is much better at hiding gaps then wood ;-)

I had the time to start on a small section this weekend but thought better of it. The adhesive is in a large bucket that once opened can sometimes cure or waste material. I will wait until this weekend when I can work for a good contiguous period of time.

Oh, bought wood floring/Stair nose nose trim (jesus $$$), adhesive and a few of the correct trowels. Oh, and some adhesive cleaner.

Included are shots of it as she sat this morning ready to go. I took a close up pic of the ramp/roller assembly for the large drivers side slide. Remember, I was able to remove the first 8" of the leading edge of the slide deck to expose this which will make my life much easier. I will belt sand the planks to slide under these ramps so that they are flush at the end so the roller goes in AND out smoothly.
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:02 PM   #34
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looks good and clean. On the adhesive, you will find that it will skin over in the bucket at night. this is due to the moisture in the air and that is what cures urethane. I put a large plastic bag on the top of the glue container. I usually just add a little adhesive to the edge to seal it. If your container has the metal tabs, It is a good chance you won't be able to use that again after you pry the tabs up. You will probably use all the adhesive anyway.
I butter the back of the planks after I dry fit them to the stair nose. This insures the adhesive won't get ahead of me and flash dry- when that happens- very difficult to place a board.
At the stair nose entry, I use some Chem rx adhesive and hot melt glue. This is after I cut the angles and make sure everything fits.
IMPORTANT-- sand the back of the stairnose to get rid of the finish. The adhesive will semi-adhere to it if you don';t. Don't ask how I know this.
The first few runs are slow- don't rush it.
On the slide- street side: are you installing wood on that? Ernie
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:12 PM   #35
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Ernie,
Thanks. Yes, wood on the street side. Once I have the main floor done I will reassemble the slide leading edge and do that slide. It is the only slide on rollers.
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:15 PM   #36
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Oh, and on the stairway nose trim, I was thinking of using some loctite construction adhesive, I will look up the chem rx as well.

Chris
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:17 PM   #37
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Your doing an awesome job. We went through most of what you are going through last fall. Took our time, 5 hours a day. Took a week. We used Pergo. We also did the under floor heating which I highly recommend. Nice for the cold mornings when the floor is kinda cool. Here is a shot of the finished product. We did the bedroom as well and left the ceramic tile in the kitchen and bathroom. We are going on 11 years with this coach and hope to see another 20.



Good luck and have fun with it.
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:11 PM   #38
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... We also did the under floor heating which I highly recommend. Nice for the cold mornings when the floor is kinda cool. ...
How hard was that to do?
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:45 AM   #39
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Radar did you add lighting under your couch?
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Old 03-18-2014, 12:30 PM   #40
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Radar,
Looks great. I pulled the carpet first, then grabbed some leftover laminate I had from other jobs and laid them next to the tile in our coach and asked my wife if she wanted to keep the tile or not. We decided not to. MANY MANY MANY hours later the tile is now all gone. You skipped out on all the fun! ;-)

I am looking forward to getting my hands sticky this weekend ;-)

My brother may help me for a day or so. He has a TT he will want to do the same in, so is interested to see how it is done. Doesn't hurt that he was a finish carpenter by trade a while back ;-)

Chris


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Your doing an awesome job. We went through most of what you are going through last fall. Took our time, 5 hours a day. Took a week. We used Pergo. We also did the under floor heating which I highly recommend. Nice for the cold mornings when the floor is kinda cool. Here is a shot of the finished product. We did the bedroom as well and left the ceramic tile in the kitchen and bathroom. We are going on 11 years with this coach and hope to see another 20.



Good luck and have fun with it.
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Old 03-18-2014, 01:21 PM   #41
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How hard was that to do?
Howdy and sorry for the delay. Golf getting in the way. We did't find it that hard to put in the sub floor heating. Maybe an hour for the pads and an hour for the electrical but I had power handy under the sink so I just ran it behind the couch and mounted the thermostat behind the drivers position. The pads are the same thickness as the material you lay under the flooring so you just have to lay out the pads and fill out where the pads don't cover with the material. A pair of scissors and duct tape are the only tools you need. Set the floor thermostat to come on an hour before you want it warm. Nice on the feet in the morning. Very even quiet heat but not really meant to warm the whole coach. The whole floor will probably be 600 watts in your case. Ours was half of that. Amazing how warm you feel when your feet are warm. Here is the link. Good luck.

Laminate Floor Heating - ThermoSoft
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Old 03-18-2014, 01:24 PM   #42
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Radar did you add lighting under your couch?
Yes. A six foot piece of incandescent rope light. The LED stuff didn't have the right colour temperature. We did the same over the slide. In both cases you can"t see the rope light. Just the effect. Soft back lighting.

Here is a shot. You can also see we added some under counter and under countertop lighting. The under countertop lighting is rope light as well. That was a little more fun getting in.

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