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Old 03-25-2014, 05:25 PM   #71
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Chris, let me say that from what I have seen of your work- you are going to be my competition~
Very nice, and well thought out.
Another tip for keeping planks in place: I keep a large hot melt glue gun on. If I have an area that needs to be in place and am concerned about a staple hitting something metal, I leave a couple of quarter size voids on the back of the plank and there I apply the hot melt and place it and weight it in place for about 15 seconds.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:46 PM   #72
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you sir deserve a nice cold refreshment
super job
looks fantastic

any idea how much weight you lost (coach wise) by removing the tile
or was it a wash


either way
GREAT job, i cant wait to see the slide finished
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:59 PM   #73
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Great job. Looks fantastic.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:53 PM   #74
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That is an incredible compliment Ernie, thanks. Luckily for you I love to work on MY stuff, not other peoples. I am a software guy by trade and a home/car improvement guy by night. I would not get pleasure doing this stuff for other people. You sir, are safe!

Ernie, I really love the fact that you do this for income and yet still share your expertise without reservation. It enables "hacks" like me to "gussy" up our rigs and enjoy them for years to come.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernie Ekberg View Post
Chris, let me say that from what I have seen of your work- you are going to be my competition~
Very nice, and well thought out.
Another tip for keeping planks in place: I keep a large hot melt glue gun on. If I have an area that needs to be in place and am concerned about a staple hitting something metal, I leave a couple of quarter size voids on the back of the plank and there I apply the hot melt and place it and weight it in place for about 15 seconds.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:55 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerboatr View Post
you sir deserve a nice cold refreshment
super job
looks fantastic

any idea how much weight you lost (coach wise) by removing the tile
or was it a wash


either way
GREAT job, i cant wait to see the slide finished
Weight savings, hmm, dunno. This engineered floor is certainly much lighter then tile, and also much lighter then a comparable 12mm laminate. That said, my rig was half tile and half carpet, and the laminate is heavier then carpet.

Started testing the slide and rollers tonight cleaning them and such. There was all kinds of construction debris I would hate to get caught in a roller and drag across the floor ;-)

Chris
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Old 03-25-2014, 11:12 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerboatr View Post
you sir deserve a nice cold refreshment
super job
looks fantastic

any idea how much weight you lost (coach wise) by removing the tile
or was it a wash


either way
GREAT job, i cant wait to see the slide finished
I have ceramic tile and it weighs 3.45#/sq ft. 3/8" EW is running 2# or less/sq ft. I have around 167 sq ft of tile so I'm putting my weight savings at between 250-270#.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:46 AM   #77
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Done done done!

Alrighty,
The rig is done. Let me step through the last few parts of the puzzle. The remaining work this weekend was to complete the large living room slide, the stair topper and the wall above the stairs on the firewall. Good times.

First, about half of my 2.5 or so gallons of adhesive had semi-cured. So I needed to buy a bit more from Ace to finish the job. Luckily they had 1 gallon containers.

To start I followed a bit of Ernie's advice (again, thank god for Ernie) and brought the slide in about 6 inches, this raised the leading edge so that I could clamp down the stair nose trim. But before I installed the stair nose I test fit it with the slide completely deployed. This helped me establish how flat the slide is to the floor. A few guestimates later and I determined to get a nice fit to the coach floor I needed to remove about 3/16 of the stair nose "nose bottom" (the part of the stairnose that hangs down below the floor). I did this quickly with the table saw.

I sanded the back of the stairnose (another Ernie-ism) and used construction adhesive to hold the stairnose to the slide leading edge. Clamped it and gave it a few hours. Here is what it looked like:
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:51 AM   #78
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Next I laid out the flooring on the slide. The construction adhesive hadn't fully set yet, so I had to be careful here. The good news about this slide was that the leading 8" was a removable metal piece that allowed me grat access. The bad news is I couldn't use my by now tried and true method of nailing brads to keep the wood in place. I was able to finish out this section, making sure to have holes for my seatbelts as well as cutting away the back of the planks around the bolt heads. It came out great and here is the finished product.

Notice how flush the slide floor is to the coach floor? This required some testing to determine how much of the stair nose to cut away to give me this, but holy crap the results are great!
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:56 AM   #79
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Next a few odds and ends.

I had to cover the trim that is the equivalent of a "pedal rest" in a car. Holy crap did they staple the carpet on to this thing well! Sweet jesus!

Anyways, it turned out good, pic below.

I then covered the stairwell cover. I had purchased some transition strip trim, it goes from 1/2 T&G on one side to meet flooring and goes to essentially 1/16" on the other side. This was needed for the leading edge of the stairwell cover that goes under the coach. When it "swooshes" in, the leading section that goes in first drops down before going in, but needed the extra clearance. Got that installed and just left the floor planks bare on the sides (did stain the ends to match tho).

I then did the previously carpeted section on the "dash" ahead of the passenger seat.

All the cats meow ;-)
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:58 AM   #80
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All furniture moved back in and most of the dried glue removed from floor. Pictures speak for themselves. Notice I bought some black plugs to cover the access screw holes in the engine panel in bedroom.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:05 PM   #81
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A few items of note.

I replaced the seals on the toilet since I had it out.

The cupholder/magazine rack behind the j-couch. It's gone. I preferred the extra 4" of space over the limited function that thing provided. Especially needed space with slides in.

I purchased some "carpet runner" material originally designed for hardwood flooring, cut it into 1 foot wide strips (1'x3') and used them to run the rollers of the slide on. I also used them where the passenger side slide "teflon blocks" touch the floor. At some point I may quit using them, but after all of this work I will take no risks on scratches. Especially with all of the construction debris getting near the rollers. At some point the rollers will be clean and I wont cry over a scratch. That is not today ;-)

I LOVE THE LOOK AND FEEL OF THIS FLOOR!!!!!!!

I hope this thread helps others and if anyone has a question PM me or post here.

Chris
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:12 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky_Boss View Post
I have ceramic tile and it weighs 3.45#/sq ft. 3/8" EW is running 2# or less/sq ft. I have around 167 sq ft of tile so I'm putting my weight savings at between 250-270#.
My trailer weighed ~600Lbs at the dump (tile, carpet and "stuff" FYI

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Old 03-31-2014, 12:15 PM   #83
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That's GORGEOUS! Great job.

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Old 03-31-2014, 12:34 PM   #84
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Great job, Chris.
For others: you can add a piece of plywood to the slide so you don't have to do the cut the stairnose trick.
And- even though you may have the same coach as Chris- my money says it will be a little different.
Glad I could help.
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