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Old 04-28-2014, 08:08 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Bad Bolt View Post
That is a good idea.

However, after some thought, I think I may make and L bracket that is the width of the header opening.

This L bracket would have the bottom of the L facing towards the inside of the opening with a double faced thin strip of tape to stick the bracket to the top of the refer case.

The vertical part of the L bracket would cover about 1" of the header with two holes drilled to match what the Norcold had to fasten the L bracket to the header.

I would paint the bracket to match the color of the white oak finish. Or, I could mount the bracket to a white oak finish trim piece to make it fancy.

In any case, I think I now have the final plan to fasten the top front of the unit.

Thanks for all the tips and comments.

Surprised nobody commented on the insulation burning picture. That really confirmed to me that replacing the Norcold amonia boiler operated system was a solid safety factor decision...
I did exactly that top fastening procedure on a Summit fridge I installed in a 93 Monaco Dynasty. Worked great. The double-stick 3M auto trim tape has an incredible grip. After a year, it had as great a grip as the day I installed it.

Many folks think they HAVE to have the Samsung 197. It's a great fridge. I have its big brother in my S&B house and I love the Twin Cooling concept. But you have replaced a 7.75 cf fridge with one about 1/3 bigger. And if you are like me, and do not full-time, you might have thought that your previous fridge was adequate in size, but you simply wanted one that was more reliable and less dangerous. But in the bargain, you got one MUCH larger. I'll bet you are as happy with the new fridge as I was. Congratulations!

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Eastern NC
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:11 PM   #16
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BB,
How did you get the old one out and the new one through the coach door?
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:20 PM   #17
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Vanwill

Obviously, great minds think alike...

I got the refer in the coach through this:


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Old 04-29-2014, 06:37 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Bolt View Post
That is a good idea.

However, after some thought, I think I may make and L bracket that is the width of the header opening.

This L bracket would have the bottom of the L facing towards the inside of the opening with a double faced thin strip of tape to stick the bracket to the top of the refer case.

The vertical part of the L bracket would cover about 1" of the header with two holes drilled to match what the Norcold had to fasten the L bracket to the header.

I would paint the bracket to match the color of the white oak finish. Or, I could mount the bracket to a white oak finish trim piece to make it fancy.

In any case, I think I now have the final plan to fasten the top front of the unit.

Thanks for all the tips and comments.

Surprised nobody commented on the insulation burning picture. That really confirmed to me that replacing the Norcold amonia boiler operated system was a solid safety factor decision...
I think that is because no one is really surprised anymore ...
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:53 AM   #19
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BB,
How did you get the old one out and the new one through the coach door?
I'm not the OP but, in my case (very similar reefer with same dimensions), I removed the coach entry door and its frame. The reefer was about 1/2" too wide to go thru the door without removal. I also removed the doors on the reefer to place it in the cavity ... depth of reefer with doors on is a little too deep to fit in the hallway.

Replace Dometic with Summit FF1152SS
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:00 AM   #20
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Is it a 2 way Gas/electric or just elec?
Looks really nice and a lot cheaper than the ones I am looking @ CW
Thanks, tim
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:22 AM   #21
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Is it a 2 way Gas/electric or just elec?
Looks really nice and a lot cheaper than the ones I am looking @ CW
Thanks, tim

Not sure who you are asking but, the mentioned Haier and Summit are 120vac electric only, counter depth, residential reefers. Basically, they are high efficiency apartment size refrigerators.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:35 AM   #22
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Have yet to drill the two holes at the front top face of the freezer case for the brackets. I would be using about a 1/2" screw. Is there a risk at that depth?
Thought the same thing when installing my Whirlpool. Thought I was safe and wound up with a face full of Freon, and a trip to Lowes to buy another refridge.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:48 AM   #23
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Electric operation only. The cost to switch and the safety factor were too hard to pass up.

One nice bonus is that the Norcold doors were trimmed with matching white oak wood panels like the cabinets. Now, I have the ability to replace any damaged doors by just scaling down the panels to fix whatever....WIN!
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:37 PM   #24
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Here is my Haier installation.
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:23 PM   #25
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What are those two black things by the doors?
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:36 PM   #26
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What are those two black things by the doors?
Those are my 2 "KISS" door locks. Before installing the fridge I made 2 fuzzy side industrial strength Velcro straps. Stapled them to the inside of the cabinet at correct height. After sliding in fridge stuck 2 matching Velcro pads on doors. Made fuzzy's long enough to grab to release Velcro. I tuck them out of the way into the sliding pantry when parked and using the fridge.

KISS means "keep it simple stup**".
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:03 PM   #27
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How are you going to secure the doors during travel?
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:07 PM   #28
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With the 2 black Velcro strips. The strips are in secured position in the last picture.

Works for me.
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