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Old 11-22-2012, 01:49 PM   #15
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Well I live in Central PA and the MH came from Rising Sun MD...they were Penn State Fans and I am aware they may have only been to 5 or so home games....only like 220 miles round trip...

I will call the former owner next week to determine the facts...but either way I am leaning to changing the 4 rear tires in the spring..as from what I am told those are the ones who support a great deal of weight and heat..

Comments are appreciated..
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Old 11-22-2012, 01:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacknchrome View Post
Well I live in Central PA and the MH came from Rising Sun MD...they were Penn State Fans and I am aware they may have only been to 5 or so home games....only like 220 miles round trip...

I will call the former owner next week to determine the facts...but either way I am leaning to changing the 4 rear tires in the spring..as from what I am told those are the ones who support a great deal of weight and heat..

Comments are appreciated..
If all the tires are the same age and I wasn't going to change ALL of them, the fronts would definitely be the first ones to be replaced. I assume you have at least duallys on the rear.
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:13 PM   #17
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That is a nice looking H/R.
Heres some things you'll need to check,
Check around the tip out, the rubber seal to make sure it flips out as you extend the tip out, or it wont seal up good & should it rain, will leak right behind the drivers seat onto the floor.
Check under the tip out, for the bottom rubber seal, that it is mounted completely to the side of the coach & that it also flips out while extending the tip out.

You can check to see if the tip out has ever leaked while raining, just check the lower part of that wide trim board around the inside edge of the tip out, check right behind the drivers seat. That board is a masonite type board & once any water touches it, it swells up.

Those compartments are not heated, (unless theres been a change) so you'll need some sort of heat in the compartment where the plumbing & valves are located if you intend to winter camp or leave un-winterized over the winter.
Your heating system inside the coach, should you decide to operate that thinkng it will take care of the plumbing, will not take care of the plumbing or valves, so some sort of heat will be needed in that compartment.
All the plumbing is kinda central to that compartment area, open up into the floor, so the little heater will keep all the plumbing from the sink to the stool & water tanks warm.

Those 2.5GPM water pumps, are at least $79.95 on e bay & all it takes is one freeze up & the pump head is done for, so just a small electric heater in that compartment will take care of the plumbing.

I know you probably dont want to hear this, but that Norcold fridge, you keep a good eye on it.
First thing you do, pull the outside cover off on the outside of the coach & inspect as close as you can where you can see, if theres any yellow looking stuff anywhere around the burner or stack area.
It might be you would need to remove some of the metal covers from around the LP burner or part of the stack to see anything, but better safe than sorry.

The engine, about the spark plugs, the problems you've heard about, come from being only 4 threads in those aluminum heads to hold the plug in & in some cases Ford didnt torque them proper & the plug blew out.
Other times, it is after the owners changed them out, didnt bother torquing them to the proper amount & stripped the threads & ended up with a blown plug.
The later models after the 2000, the heads were corrected by Ford, but still they used a different spark plug from the 99 that would come apart when was being removed, so part of the plug was still down in the head.

The spark plug deal, probably not that much to be worrying youself about, cases are far & few between & each one varies from one to the other why it happened.

We have a 99 Vacationer, which is just about the same as that 2000 H/R Endeavor, except only 32' & just some of the things we've had to deal with or correct.
We have over 68K on it so far & engine & trans are operating like a top.

One other thing, go to the Ford Chassis M/H forum & look up the "Cheap Handling Fix" because that will be a project once you get it home & drive it some.
Neil
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:16 PM   #18
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Shocks: factory shocks will not be name brand. Mine were black color and no name. If you do not see a brand name on the shocks they definitely need to be replaced.
Also check all the bushings on the front and rear sway bars. They are known to wear out.
As others have stated, check out the Ford chassis forum.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:41 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by RedWing Nut View Post
If all the tires are the same age and I wasn't going to change ALL of them, the fronts would definitely be the first ones to be replaced. I assume you have at least duallys on the rear.
I agree with Redwing Nut. First I will say if I were in your situation I would probably be ok with the tires for another year or two but if not changing all the tires at the same time, I would definitely change the steer tires before the rear tires. The steer tires are the ones that keep you on the road and out of the ditch.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:53 PM   #20
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by the way 6.5 years and 4000 miles on those tires will be like new as long as they never sat in hot sunlight and got sidewall stress cracked(rot) no matter what you think.
I beg to strongly differ with you on this. Those tires are 6.5 years old and are entering the last couple of years of their life regardless of how they have been used. In fact, circumstances surrounding their use (or non-use in this case) may shorten their lives significantly. You are free to do as you wish with respect to your rig, but I think the OP is on the right path by recognizing that the tires should be replaced sooner rather than later.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:07 PM   #21
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Just put new Konis all the way around on my 13 Newmar F53 today with 3 thousand on the clock. It had bilstone shocks on it and the ride was not to bad. I will drive it tomorrow with the new Konis. Anyway I just want to find a good home for the bilstines. They are free to anybody who comes and gets them or pays shipping and a small fee for me to ship. Just stop by and get them free. They are 3 months old and like new. The book says they will fit any F53 chassis.
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:22 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by KSCRUDE View Post
Just put new Konis all the way around on my 13 Newmar F53 today with 3 thousand on the clock. It had bilstone shocks on it and the ride was not to bad. I will drive it tomorrow with the new Konis. Anyway I just want to find a good home for the bilstines. They are free to anybody who comes and gets them or pays shipping and a small fee for me to ship. Just stop by and get them free. They are 3 months old and like new. The book says they will fit any F53 chassis.
I will take the shocks and pay the shipping..they should work on my coach..and i believe mine are black with no tags...Where is OZ...Kansas right?
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Old 11-22-2012, 10:28 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by C-Leigh Racing View Post
That is a nice looking H/R.
Heres some things you'll need to check,
Check around the tip out, the rubber seal to make sure it flips out as you extend the tip out, or it wont seal up good & should it rain, will leak right behind the drivers seat onto the floor.
Check under the tip out, for the bottom rubber seal, that it is mounted completely to the side of the coach & that it also flips out while extending the tip out.

You can check to see if the tip out has ever leaked while raining, just check the lower part of that wide trim board around the inside edge of the tip out, check right behind the drivers seat. That board is a masonite type board & once any water touches it, it swells up.

Those compartments are not heated, (unless theres been a change) so you'll need some sort of heat in the compartment where the plumbing & valves are located if you intend to winter camp or leave un-winterized over the winter.
Your heating system inside the coach, should you decide to operate that thinkng it will take care of the plumbing, will not take care of the plumbing or valves, so some sort of heat will be needed in that compartment.
All the plumbing is kinda central to that compartment area, open up into the floor, so the little heater will keep all the plumbing from the sink to the stool & water tanks warm.

Those 2.5GPM water pumps, are at least $79.95 on e bay & all it takes is one freeze up & the pump head is done for, so just a small electric heater in that compartment will take care of the plumbing.

I know you probably dont want to hear this, but that Norcold fridge, you keep a good eye on it.
First thing you do, pull the outside cover off on the outside of the coach & inspect as close as you can where you can see, if theres any yellow looking stuff anywhere around the burner or stack area.
It might be you would need to remove some of the metal covers from around the LP burner or part of the stack to see anything, but better safe than sorry.

The engine, about the spark plugs, the problems you've heard about, come from being only 4 threads in those aluminum heads to hold the plug in & in some cases Ford didnt torque them proper & the plug blew out.
Other times, it is after the owners changed them out, didnt bother torquing them to the proper amount & stripped the threads & ended up with a blown plug.
The later models after the 2000, the heads were corrected by Ford, but still they used a different spark plug from the 99 that would come apart when was being removed, so part of the plug was still down in the head.

The spark plug deal, probably not that much to be worrying youself about, cases are far & few between & each one varies from one to the other why it happened.

We have a 99 Vacationer, which is just about the same as that 2000 H/R Endeavor, except only 32' & just some of the things we've had to deal with or correct.
We have over 68K on it so far & engine & trans are operating like a top.

One other thing, go to the Ford Chassis M/H forum & look up the "Cheap Handling Fix" because that will be a project once you get it home & drive it some.
Neil
MH is winterized for now...I installed two 750 watt ceramic heaters with tip over switches in the dining room and bed room...took amp draw for total and i am at 11 amps...turned off propane furnace for now..

The slide seals are all in great condition..I also lubed the slide gears with lithium grease and yesterday took and cleaned all the locks and lubed them also..

I took off the water heater, frig and the furnace covers..cleaned them all up...Frig looks in excellent condition...so does all the other units..I am in the HVAC business so I have been checking all electrical connections as well..
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:41 PM   #24
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Tires and other issues..

I am going to at least change out the front tires in the spring prior to a 700 mile run. Then I will look at the rears prior to my 3500 mile round trip to Sturgis..

I also ordered and will be installing a Factory idea on my filter intake for the V10...seems reading the forum that other have intake issues in hard rain. Ford posted an additional device you install on the air filter which will not allow rain in..$50 investment..save big issues in the future..

As you saw above another Member has sent me a great set of shocks for shipping costs...how cool is that...

Thanks to all...

Bill
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Blacknchrome View Post

I ask about the TPS system as my Camaro has it and my work Ford Pickup...are they not a good indication to keep an eye on air pressure with the inside rear tires...
I personally would add a TPMS to the coach, it may save you a lot of damage from a slow leak in a tire which could lead to a blow out. Especially on a rear dual.

Congrat's on the new to you coach, that does look great
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