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10-18-2015, 01:05 AM
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#57
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CntryCoachRV
No, they don't all handle that way. I have a 2000 Country Coach DP with independent front suspension that is steady as a big ship in calm waters. I love driving it, feels like I am floating down the highway. Find yourself a quality built DP with IFS and you will see a significant difference in handling.
Ray
2000 Country Coach Intrigue
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We had a 2000 38' Dutch Star DP on a FL chassis with beam axle and a 40' Dutch Star on a Spartan chassis with IFS. There was a slight difference between the two but it was mainly if the small bumps. There were slightly more noticeable in the 2000 DSDP.
The present Magan does ride better, but it also weighs some 20,000#'s more with bigger tires and a tag axle.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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10-18-2015, 06:33 AM
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#58
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Murphy, NC
Posts: 37
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Thank you all for the great information and opinions here and throughout the IRV2 forum. We have an important decision to make with regards to our new Bay Star which was a big part of our future, dreamed of for years, travel plans. I am pretty stressed, hubby not so much. I've learned that things happen for a reason, and while we do the research and the due diligence, I'll leave the rest to God to guide us in what is best in our lives. Happy trails to all the wonderful RVERS on the forum.
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10-18-2015, 08:07 PM
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#59
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LovetheUSA
Yellowboat - Do you feel the modifications you made to the chassis for handling made a substantial difference in handling? Would you be confident in running your coach through the mountains not Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, etc.? I posted above asking original poster about his trade in of gasser to DP. Truthfully, we can't do a DP, and would like to do our own maintenance. However, after our experience this summer with the handling of our motorhome, we are contemplating selling and nixing our dream trip in the name of safety. We've read great reviews on handling fixes and some that say it didn't make much difference. Just not sure if we should throw $3 k at the problem and hope it fixes the stability and handling.
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Hi. We just returned from a trip in or motor home. Our new coach is a dream to drive.
I wouldn't be afraid to drive it anywhere. The day we picked up our new coach at the dealership there was a wind storm with gusts over 50 mph. We were traveling north on I-5 and the wind was east to west. We were pushed by the wind twice. Once when an 18 wheeler passed and blocked the wind for a moment and once when we exited a underpass. Each time I felt a little push.
I've only had gas rigs so I cannot compare to a diesel coach.
Weigh your MH on each corner. Check your weight results against the carring capacity of your axles. If you are over weight you need to carry less weight. Unfortunately some manufactures do not leave much carrying capacity. You can find carrying capacity data posted on the wall next to the driver or in the operator's manual.
If you are not over weight then find the web site of your tire manufacture and from their tire pressure weight tables determine your tire pressure based upon the weight your axle is actually carrying. Too much tire pressure can cause a coach to track and wander.
If you have not had your coach aligned do this next. Chassis are aligned when they leave the Ford plant but not after the coach builder adds thousands of pounds to the chassis. The operator's manual for our new coach says to get an alignment.
Test drive after each change to see if your coach is driving better.
If you are still not happy I would try a trac bar next. If you are handy there are instructions on this web site on how to build your own trac bar. Or you can buy a trac bar from a dealer and install it yourself or have it installed.
If you elected to build your own trac bar you have not spent very much money yet.
The next least expensive mod would be a steering damper. Again, if you are handy you can buy the damper and install it yourself.
Lastly, if the previous changes have not made your coach driveable I would try a sway bar.
Again, test drive your coach after each change. If you are happy at any point you can stop there. That said each step deals with different issues.
I hope this helps. TeJay please comment if I missed anything.
JD.
__________________
JD & Kathy and our Bichon Frise "Little Buddy Too"
2016 Winnebago Sightseer33C built on a 2016 F-53 Chassis
2009 Saturn Vue
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10-18-2015, 09:58 PM
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#60
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,297
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LovetheUSA,
Thanks JD,
I have rear all of, LovetheUSA's comments and concerns about their MH. JD you hit all but the cheap handling fix.
Lets look at it this way. JD's coach is setting on 22.5" tires and is a bit longer than yours. You also have the 19.5" tires. The bigger tires and more weight will give a better ride. Our coach is 31' and an 18,000 chassis. I've done the CHF, Koni shocks, steering dampener, steer safe and a rear track bar. I can drive it all day with one hand. I don't but I could. Probably 95% of the time I'm very relaxed. When the semi's approach or if it's a windy gusty day there may be times when certain forces come together to move you around so on those days it's not as good but still very manageable.
When i say "forces coming together" would be like this. It's a gusty windy day. The wind is not bad but it is there. You have the wind blocked by a row of trees and a semi approaches from the rear pushing a wall of air. The trucker is not to attentive and wanders over into your lane a little closer than he should. Not dangerous but just a bit closer. About that time you come out from the wall of trees and a gust of wind hits you. The wind from the truck is going to push the rear to the right. that will push the front to the left about the time the gust of wind hits you. That's a lot of outside forces coming together. You have to be ready for those times. I can encounter those forces and be just fine.
Remember that you can't compare apples and oranges. Every coach even the same make and model will drive slightly different. It depends on how you load the coach. Next topic would be your budget. There are several things that you can do to improve the ride. The first would be the CHF (cheap handling fix). You should know about it by now. I can guarantee that you will notice a very significant improvement in the sway if you did the Fix. That will cost you nothing. If you wanted to spend about $1,500 you could have some Roadmaster stabilizer bars (SB) installed. They would give you the same or better improvement. Dennis Dean had some put on his RV and they kept the rear SB and just added the second. Having the stock plus an extra would really help. First I'd do the CHF.
It's late and I was up at 4:30 so do the CHF and take it for a drive. You will be very surprised. if you are not you can always reverse it and sell the coach. You can make a gas coach ride and handle just fine. No it may never ride like a DP but you will also save about 40-K.
One other item. You have been very careful to keep your water supply down because of the extra weight. Actually that my be some of your problem. A heavier coach will ride and handle better. The wind does not effect it as badly. If your coach is built intelligently usually the fresh water tank is over the rear axle. I know ours is. Filling that about 1/2 will help.
Do the CHF and drive it. Then let us know.
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
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10-18-2015, 10:07 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 929
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My last coach was. 40'HR Imperial and in a strong crosswind it became a 40ft sail. It weighed 29k lbs and trucks moved it over and I had to steer into the wind to keep it going straight. My 42ft Panther has a tag axle and weighs 42k lbs and hardly moves at all in the wind and I move trucks over. I would never go back to fighting the steering wheel. I love the ride my Roadmaster S series chassis gives me.
Steve and Jill
2005 Panther
23' Trailer
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10-18-2015, 10:47 PM
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#62
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Murphy, NC
Posts: 37
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JD and TeJay, thank you so much for all of your input and suggestions. The motorhome is at the the dealer in Florida at this time for a few warranty repairs. We will pick it up when we get back to Florida in mid November. My husband and I read all suggestions and he will do the CHF and likely add a Safe T Steer and Blue Ox Tiger Trak Bar. We will load and have four corner load weight and adjust tires according. Hopefully, we will decide that we are comfortable driving and continue our plans for the three month trip out west. You are both so kind to take the time to reply and explain the proper fixes. Once completed, I will let you know the results. Thanks again.
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10-19-2015, 07:49 AM
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#63
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,297
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Tom & Kate,
That approach will achieve some good results and it won't cost you an arm and a leg. It's sad that the RV sellers don't take the time to help new owners with some of these issues.
You did mention earlier that you'd put it in Gods hands. Yes we know who is in charge. Always remember that HE also gave us a free will and an intellect. We mere mortals can and do solve problems which gives us choices. Then it is up to us to make those choices. I'm alive today because humans solved medical problems and I was able to make choices.
Looking forward to your eventual report to us. Enjoy the ride
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
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10-19-2015, 07:51 AM
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#64
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 949
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Bad Ride
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gannet
It was a rental, and a rental of a mid-low range brand, that was 15 years old...
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Boy howdy. Good words of wisdom.
It is truly amazing, how a few dollars spent, three or four more test drives, is all the difference that lies between having each passing tractor-trailer prompt veering versus feeling like the rig is running on rails.
Not to say that an otherwise good RV can't be made better, once you own it: a buddy just cured his pull-to-the-right problems by replacing the tires; in my 2005 Fleetwood Excursion 39S, hanging new Michelins and Koni shocks on the front end turned it into a different beast.
While the rule of thumb is that DPs* track better than gassers, there are exceptions to the rule. Even within a model and year, some might drive better than others.
*For me, the holy grail of Class A's is an older DP that was garaged, never lived or smoked in, and didn't suffer lapses in either maintenance or usage. Believe me, they are out there.
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10-19-2015, 08:14 AM
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#65
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA (Stick & Brick)
Posts: 2,643
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If you can afford a big DP, then go for it. We couldn't afford one new enough to be comfortable owning (would've been 25 years old or more). We bought an 8-year-old 32' Georgetown (F53/V-10) from the original owners.
Yes, it drove like a truck - it IS a truck. The V-10 is a surprise to people accustomed to the low-revving big V-8s, but ours ran just fine for the 6000 miles we added to the 12,000 it had when we bought it. Climbing passes in the North Cascades (Washington Pass in particular), it ran an easy 4000 rpm most of the way up.
I'm used to motorcycles that run at 8K or higher, so 4000 was no big deal.
We looked at ride & handling mods, but decided we'd rather spend the money on gas and CG fees. We were finally priced out of the lifestyle by $4.50/gallon gas and $50 a night CG fees. A $1400 fridge replacement didn't help either.
__________________
Frank Damp -Anacortes, WA,(DW- Eileen)
ex-pat Brits (1968) and ex-RVers.
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10-19-2015, 08:18 AM
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#66
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 349
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check out an Alpine, (Western Alpine)
Do yourself a favor and check out these coaches. They were last built in 2009, another victim of the great bubble burst. They were built on the west coast, up in Washington state, and are mostly seen west of the Mississippi River. These were high end coaches, and you would probably be interested in the 40'ers. No tag axles, (just extra maint., and tires run $700.00 each) Almost always have Cummins diesels, prob. the 450 hp. The Western Alpines are all very well appointed, and they are available for probably less than half for what you would pay for a far inferior new coach today.
Don't fall for the "but it's new and I'm protected by warranties" crap. Usually an older coach has had all of its' problems solved long ago. And don't forget, a diesel coach isn't even well broken in at 40,000 miles.
I guess you might say I'm biased, as I own one; a 36FDDS, 2007.
Dudley do-right
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10-19-2015, 10:48 AM
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#67
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay
Tom & Kate,
That approach will achieve some good results and it won't cost you an arm and a leg. It's sad that the RV sellers don't take the time to help new owners with some of these issues.
You did mention earlier that you'd put it in Gods hands. Yes we know who is in charge. Always remember that HE also gave us a free will and an intellect. We mere mortals can and do solve problems which gives us choices. Then it is up to us to make those choices. I'm alive today because humans solved medical problems and I was able to make choices.
Looking forward to your eventual report to us. Enjoy the ride
TeJay
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X2
I did forget to mention the cheap handling fix.
I plan on a four corners weigh and an alignment in the next week or so on our new coach. I have weighed our coach empty and now I want to know our loaded weight.
Our 2006 F-53 chassis had two drivers side slides. The slides made the drivers side much heavier than the passenger side. Knowing this I loaded the passenger side with heavy items and my lighter items were loaded on the drivers side in an attempt to even the load. This is another low cost way to improve your driveability.
Safe travels. JD
__________________
JD & Kathy and our Bichon Frise "Little Buddy Too"
2016 Winnebago Sightseer33C built on a 2016 F-53 Chassis
2009 Saturn Vue
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10-19-2015, 11:49 AM
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#68
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 104
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I have a 27 ft Thor ACE and I get a lot of sway and rough ride. I have put on the Safety Plus on the steering and that has helped with centering the wheel but still get the sway and rough ride. It comes stock with Bilstein shocks. What can I do to make it a better RV for long trips. Also I would love to cut down on the noise level. I have been reading about Roadmaster sway bars front an back. Do they really work and are they work the 1100 that you pay for them.
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10-19-2015, 02:07 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 135
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You might want to check the Blue Ox steering product. It is adjustable for conditions. Blue Ox has a series of after market products for these issues. Good luck! Let us know your decisions.
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10-19-2015, 03:49 PM
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#70
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lowell, Arkansas
Posts: 7,297
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divingdoc,
I believe you are on the F-53 chassis. If you are not then maybe you can't do the CHF (cheap handling fix). If you don't have the stabilizer bar with the 2 holes it can still be adjusted for better sway control, so let me know.
The Roadmaster SB will help a great deal but the same thing can be achieved with far less $$$$$.
TeJay
__________________
TeJay Auto Instructor/4-yrs USAF/ Liz: RN/ WBGO 2014 Vista 30T/ F-53/CHF/5-Star/Koni * Bella & Izzy * Golden /Cocker mix/ Louie The Cat* All Retired
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