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Old 10-28-2015, 02:56 PM   #1
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New Vectra Owner

Does anyone have any tips on adjusting the engine cover on the back of a Winnebago Vectra?
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djtnang View Post
Does anyone have any tips on adjusting the engine cover on the back of a Winnebago Vectra?
Well Sir,
What exactly do you mean by "Engine Cover"? Do you mean the one under the bed or, in the closet or, where ever your access to your engine is in the coach? Or, do you mean the rear grill that drops down to gain better access to the radiator (if yours is a rear radiator version)?

We need more info, year/length/engine etc. as there are differences in those specs.
Scott
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Old 10-29-2015, 11:10 AM   #3
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2004 vectra rear engine drop down grill

This is a 2004 Winnebago Vectra. It is the rear engine grill that drops down where you check the oil. There are four stops into Little latches. Just looking for a way to adjust it the door is very loose and actually swung down as I was driving driving down the interstate the other day.
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:52 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by djtnang View Post
This is a 2004 Winnebago Vectra. It is the rear engine grill that drops down where you check the oil. There are four stops into Little latches. Just looking for a way to adjust it the door is very loose and actually swung down as I was driving driving down the interstate the other day.
Aaaaahhh, now I understand. Well, I had the same EXACT problem with my sister ship to yours. It's an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT. Mine had dropped down a couple of times. And, as designed, it only has two, what's called "Slam latches" at the bottom of it. The top has no latching on it. So, because of that design, it would lean out a bit at the top since there's no securing of it.

Well, I had thought of several remedies but, all were kind of pain to setup. That is until just recently. I just happened to have, a few smaller, stainless steel turn buckles hanging around. I calculated and placed where they should be mounted to be most effective. I went to work setting them up.

On one end, they're permanently mounted and, on the other, I opened up the eye bolt end to act like a "Hook". I placed a screw with a piece of rubber hose on it so the hook part, would latch on to it without rattling.

All I do is, close the grill as normal. then, with one hand push the grill tighter and, with the other hand, reach through the grill, grab the turn buckle and, lower it onto the screw with the tiny piece of hose on it. I then take a couple of turns on it to cinch things up tight.

I then move to the other side. It takes me about 5-10 seconds per side to do this. But, my grill is now tightly ( as tight as I want to make it) secured. My test was a recent trip which, we just arrived back home from yesterday, the 28th. The trip was 950 miles, round trip. That grill, was as tight when I pulled back into our drive way, as it was 7 days ago when we left. Take a look at the pictures and see if you'd like to try the same remedy.
Scott


P.S. I might add, with only two latches to hold this kind of door/grill in a vertical position and, with those latches at the bottom, I tried several times to adjust it several ways and, there seemed to be no real way of cinching it up as tight and flush with the rest of the back body panel/rear cap. I originally was going to use some semi-strong spring in the same locations but. I figured the ones I'd need would be too hard to manage behind the grill. So, the turn buckle idea worked out great. And, it's not hard at all for me to reach through the grill and take a turn or two on each one to cinch things down.
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