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Old 02-14-2017, 09:30 PM   #15
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Ah-so; I hadn't considered the role of those switches mounted on the front stairs!
Are you saying that the "12volt" on-off switch should be "off" while shore-powered, thus permitting the converter to charge coach batteries?
I think there's three other systems switches (and the outside-stairs switch). I'll dig out the owners manual to confirm their function.

Thanks!!!
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stillstandn View Post
Ah-so; I hadn't considered the role of those switches mounted on the front stairs!
Are you saying that the "12volt" on-off switch should be "off" while shore-powered, thus permitting the converter to charge coach batteries?
I think there's three other systems switches (and the outside-stairs switch). I'll dig out the owners manual to confirm their function.

Thanks!!!
No, you can normally leave that 12v salesman switch on all the time, I hardly ever turn mine off (can't even remember the last time).

I'm thinking your converter is looking like it's defective, regardless of whether there is a green status light. It's like it's always in trickle charge mode. It's never bringing your battery bank up to 100% charged.

http://modernsurvivalblog.com/altern...-charge-chart/
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Old 02-15-2017, 10:29 AM   #17
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Yeah, in spite of the basic "charging" being put-out by my 9155, that .8vdc above battery-level seems wrong. If it's three charging-stages are rated at 14.4/13.6/13.2, then I have to believe THAT is what the unit should be reading at the output, not a puny .8vdc above battery.
I forgot to mention that this converter was LOUDLY humming as the house batteries died, not exactly confidence-inspiring. I thought these had thermal/voltage-protection circuitry...

So: would folks be kind enough to recommend reputable replacement converters pros/cons (boondocker versus intelipower, etc.)?
I'm certain there's other elaborate threads on the subject, but I'd greatly appreciate a summary of their conclusions by you kind RV veterans.
Thanks!
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Old 02-15-2017, 10:47 AM   #18
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I would probably do one last benchtest, before chunking down a huge amount of money, just to eliminate any other possibility.

I'd find a way to have only the charger, and some other 12v battery as a test. Totally eliminate the possibility of some other unknown weird thing as possibly causing a problem.

Nothing else on the battery buss, except the connection to the charger and maybe something that can put a load on it (like a headlight bulb). You can consume some of the battery to get the voltage a little lower, then see if the converter will charge it back up, and to what voltage.

- This testing would eliminate the possibility of something else loading it down, which is currently tied to the 12v buss.
- Would eliminate the possibility of your house battery somehow causing a prob

I can't offer a suggestion to converter only. Magnum MS2000 is a solid unit if you also desire a pure sine wave inverter. Charges at 100amp DC, Inverts at 2000 watts (17 amps 120VAC), and has a transfer switch included for the circuits that can be inverted. You'd also need a RC-50 control panel (or ARC50)
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Old 02-15-2017, 11:23 AM   #19
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For a bare bones converter, IOTA makes a decent unit.
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Old 02-15-2017, 11:30 AM   #20
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Thanks for responding.

I did disconnect ALL connections from the house batteries while doing the converter output test; it was still only putting-out a .8vdc charge above the batteries' level.
I then commenced re-introducing the (4) neg-term connections & (6) pos-term connections one-at-a-time to observe the impact upon the converter's charging output: zero affect across the board.

Right now I'd rather spend less than more on a replacement. Given that I already have the so-called "charge wizard" for the intelipower 9100 series I might lean that way, but it didn't seem to help save this converter so maybe not.
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Old 02-16-2017, 10:37 AM   #21
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Also: the "charge wizard"'s 'select charge mode' function not working. It's green light appears to auto-dance around the three modes, but its button won't hard-select a desired mode. That symptom in itself may signal that it's attached to a bad converter.
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Old 02-18-2017, 03:28 PM   #22
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Ugh. The quick-reply just dumped my text.
Summary:

- While exploring all 12vdc wiring, i discovered that all 7 neutrals (white) that terminated in a lead-block near the original mounting location of the converter were badly caked with corrosion. Tight-fit, but i removed and cleaned them, then installed round-connectors on the ends of all neutrals and ganged them together snugly on one bolt (w/washers & a nylok).

- I then reinstalled the converter and restored all wiring and components to their original configuration.

Shazam! The converter is now operating to spec: 13.7vdc, and the charge wizard is reading the charge-modes consistently and correctly.

Conclusion:
- I was stupidly negligent and didn't regularly monitor the house batteries water level, allowing them to go dry.
- the subsequent load to the converter heavily taxed the compromised neutral termination, causing more corrosive build-up.
- the converter protected it's circuitry by reducing it's output capacity.
- with new house batteries and the neutral terminals 'restored', the converter reset it's output to normal operation.

Thoughts?

Also, please: HOW DO I POST PICS HERE? I have some that could help others by illustrating the termination issue and solution.

Thanks!
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Old 02-19-2017, 06:37 AM   #23
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Great job getting to the root cause of the problem.

Follow the screen shots to load pictures.

- Scroll down on the reply to get to the manage attachments button.
- Hit choose file, then select the file that is stored on your harddrive. Add as many as you want.
- Hit the upload button.
- Now hit the submit reply.
- After the initial posting if you want to edit and add more pictures, select the go advanced, and do the same process.
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Old 02-19-2017, 07:25 AM   #24
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If your vehicle has an Intellitec BIRD controller, both batteries should charge from shore power. Check out this link
http://bacrallies.com/PDF/PDF%20Manu...dbird/BIRD.pdf
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Old 02-19-2017, 12:10 PM   #25
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First: You described the Isolator relay EXACTLY The same way I do.. So I'd say we are on the same page there.

Second. it is not your problem Absolutely NOT your problem

This is a very simplified diagram of how your system works,, NOTE, this covers both the one way and the BIRD options.. Since I'm only showing the realay here

Chassis-----That relay----House (including the 9100 converter).

So the fact both sides show 13+ and the same + with engine runnign means the relay is good.

The lower voltage on shore power indicates one of 3.2 problems the 1.2 self corrects in time or appears to (it does not really)

One: Something is wrong internally with the converter.. however this is "Reduced" by the fact you measure proper voltage at the output.. If there was an internal issue, you'd not see that.

2.2 Two problems working together, The 9100 is not all that large or it's a long way to the Trojan's it's a long way to pump (Side note: On my coach they put the 9180 as FAR from the batteries as was humanly possible).

All that wire, it may be the Trojan's have yet to acheave full charge and they can suck serious amprage, resulting in voltage loss via the wires
This is also increased if there is a bad wire or connection.. True story. Had a wire, not the connection but the wire, mid run, go bad on this RV.. Fixed it.

Finally "Too many loads" if you have say a 9145 it has a max out of 45 amps, Well a 1156 lamp is two amps (roughly) plus fans, and other things. does not take long (20 lamps) to hit the limit on the 9145.

Doubt that's the problem

But it's a good guess.

TEST procedure.

Lift battery negative lead. Measure voltage on battery and record
Measure voltage from Negative Lead (Disconnected) to positive and record,
Connect a test lamp.. Two options here. One is an ice pick like device with a light bulb in the plastic handle, the other is something like ....

Well I took a license plate socket, populated it (put bulb in_ and added longer leads and clips,, it is a wedge type socket, two leads.

Now again hook to negative battery cable (not post) and positive and measure the voltage with the light loading the line, Post record

Post results and we can narrow it down.
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Old 02-19-2017, 12:28 PM   #26
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wa8yxm,

He posted earlier that his problem is already resolved.
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:58 AM   #27
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Thanks for the detailed pic-posting instructions!

(Unfortunately, I couldn't figure-out how to shift pics around. The order of the text and pics below should be more like "C/A/B".)

Here we go:

A. A close-up (upside-down, sorry) of the neutral terminal-block, mid-removal. There were originally 7 neutrals attached to the block, and that white-corrosive cake (typically found on neglected battery terminals) was lava'd high.
After "melting-off" most of that crap with a spray solution of water and baking-soda, some of the @#&% small lead set-screws wouldn't budge, so I destroyed the surrounding lead terminal-block using pliers and a Dremel cut-off disc to free all of the wires.

B. I then wire-brushed all of the neutral-ends until shiny, goobed dilectric grease ("Electro-Salsa") all over them, crimped-on ring-terminals, and ganged all seven freshened connections snugly onto a grade-8 bolt using washers & a nylok nut, generously applying electro-salsa to ALL contact surfaces. (Unfortunately, that stuff is one of the few greases that is 'Dawn-resistant'. Normally, the mighty Dawn will thoroughly de-grease nearly anything).

C. Is a wide-shot of the location of all the 12vdc 'initial-systems' components within one of the basement-storage compartments. If you zoom-in underneath and behind the 'coach-chassis relay', you can barely see the corrosion-caked neutral-termination block before I discovered and corrected it.

In any event, problem solved.

Hopefully, my diagnostic adventure may assist others.

And Many Thanks to those whom have assisted me!
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