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Old 07-16-2011, 10:02 PM   #1
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newbie question - draining tanks

I just bought a 2005 Bounder, and have a lot of questions. Please bear with me if they're newbie questions but I'm a newbie. The first thing I want to do is sterilize the fresh water tank. I've read up on the process, bleach in the water, fill the tank, run through the pipes, drive around to splash the ullage, let sit, rinse thouroughly. But my question is, where to dump the chlorine water and the rinse water? Can I just drain it in my yard? And do I run it through the faucets to drain the fresh tank, or drain it through the fresh tank low point drain? If I run it through the faucets and into the grey water tank, can I dump the grey water tank into my yard, or is that a health hazard or code violation?
While i'm at it, I've got another related question. When I bought the RV (yesterday) I bought it from a neighbor but he and I took it to a dealer to check it out first. They said they filled and drained the fresh water tank, but now the gray tank is showing 3/4. (black and fresh are empty) I'm not sure if its a bad reading or if they emptied the FW tank into the GW tank and didn't empty it. Is there a way to tell ir the GW tank is really 3/4 full or if its a bad reading? Can I just start the dump in my driveway and see what comes out?
Thanks - (If there is a better forum category for this question, please let me know)
Dan
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Old 07-16-2011, 11:04 PM   #2
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No, you do not dump it in your driveway - - that's a clear way to have everyone in your neighborhood calling the local health department.

Usually people dump at a park, rinse and drain (yes, part through the faucets to get the lines cleaned out), rinse again as needed. It is really easiest to do if you are at a park with full hookups. Do you have a sewer cleanout on the side of your house close to where you have the RV - that would also be a way to dump the grey water tank.

Tank indicators are notorious - you will soon learn how long you can go before they need to be dumped. They could have something in them or could be emptied - but assume that they are full until proven otherwise.

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Old 07-17-2011, 05:53 PM   #3
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Draining the fresh tank onto your grass should not be a problem; provided the clorine content is not extremly high;using tank and low point drains, my grass and neighbours have not had issues with this. Grey tank is a different matter. For cleaning up tank level sensors I use about 25 denture cleaning tablets disolved in 5 gal warm water in the grey and black tanks, drive 10 miles and dump at a proper site. Rinse those tanks at the site if possible.
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:38 PM   #4
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. For cleaning up tank level sensors I use about 25 denture cleaning tablets disolved in 5 gal warm water in the grey and black tanks,


Where did you ever hear about using Denture Tablets??????
Cheaper to use Dawn Dishwashing Liquid-Drive and dump.
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:52 PM   #5
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Hi and Congrats on your new rig.
Don't worry about being a newbie. We were all there once... and it makes us feel good to help newbies enjoy the sport.

I think you got a lot of good advice so far. Don't dump your grey tank in your yard if you live anywhere near civilization. Dumping the freshwater in your yard from the low point drain should be fine and the chlorine concentrations shouldn't hurt your grass. Tank level sensors really are notorious for getting messy and giving poor readings. As Barb said, assume they're full until proven otherwise... kind of like assuming a gun is loaded until proven otherwise! I've had some success with Dawn but I'm sure going to give those denture tablets a shot!

Best of luck

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Old 07-17-2011, 08:08 PM   #6
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Hi Dan and welcome! I have always said and thought that the question you do not ask,because of laying out ones lack of understanding or knowledge is the biggest mistake we make.
I do not know all the answers for sure!! Been driving around in class C and A's for almost 40 years and if something has not happened to you personally, It just has not been your turn.
The forum's now available are one of the greatest gift the Internet has given people like you and me.
If you have not driven anything with air brakes,that is the point to start in my humble opinion.
The rest,well welcome to our continuing learning curve.

Every day is a gift! if you never have a bad one,then you will never know when your having a good one.
Again, welcome to a wonderful band of brothers and sisters with the common bond of owning and enjoying a self contained RV.
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:13 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry & Rita View Post
. For cleaning up tank level sensors I use about 25 denture cleaning tablets disolved in 5 gal warm water in the grey and black tanks,


Where did you ever hear about using Denture Tablets??????
Cheaper to use Dawn Dishwashing Liquid-Drive and dump.
Got that info from an RV tech that worked at a shop next to my dad's gas station in the sixties. Any time they had a sensor issue they used the tablets, and if the tablets wouldn't do the trick they would have to drop the tank and steam it out and replace the sensors. We had the steam cleaner.
Myself this is the first time I've heard about using Dawn.
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Old 07-25-2011, 05:47 PM   #8
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Dan, there is a fresh water tank drain valve right next to the fresh water tank. It is not the same as the hot/cold low drain point in the plumbing compartment where you hook up.

Open the luggage compartment door that is on the passenger side right behind the coach entry door. Its the one where you can look in and see the water tank and the water filter. Almost right in front of you up on the piping next to the fresh water tank there is a blue handle. Twist that handle and it opens the valve directly to drain outside on the ground. Draining the fresh tank on the ground is ok.. its the same as running your water hose on the ground.
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:08 PM   #9
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Here is a pic of the drain valve I was talking about in the previous post. Its the blue handle in the center of the picture. On the right is the water filter canister.


And speaking of the water filter...if you come across a white plastic item that looks like a giant bubble blower...meaning...a handle with a large open loop on the end...it is the tool used to remove/open the water filter canister so you can replace the filter cartridge inside.
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:16 PM   #10
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Thanks. Now it makes sense. I couldn't figure out why there was a pipe going from the top of the tank to the bottom of the tank, but now I realize that that is the overflow and there is a check valve in between. I did figure out the filter wrench though. I appreciate the pictures.
Dan
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:01 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncbounder View Post
Here is a pic of the drain valve I was talking about in the previous post. Its the blue handle in the center of the picture. On the right is the water filter canister.


And speaking of the water filter...if you come across a white plastic item that looks like a giant bubble blower...meaning...a handle with a large open loop on the end...it is the tool used to remove/open the water filter canister so you can replace the filter cartridge inside.
Thanks Chuck, was wondering what that tool was used for. Another newbie here. Quick question about the water filter, how long are they good for. Is there any set schedule for to use for replacing them ?
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:17 PM   #12
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Welcome to the forum! As you are already seeing, there is a lot of good info to be found here. Have you figgured out the search function yet? You can find almost everything that has been talked about before.

I replace my waterfilter each year. In fact, I remove it as part of my winterization routine as water can remain in there and freeze. Then I put the relpacement in when we prep for our first spring trip. You can find the cartridges on line or at most RV supply stores. Last time I ordered direct from the manufacturer and got a two pack for the same price as 1 from the local RV dealer.

Let me know if I can help further.
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:26 AM   #13
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The filter in my water system generally lasts 2-3 months when we are using it fulltime. I have a reusable sediment filter, so I just take it out and hose it off every once in awhile.

Basically the timing depends on how much water you run through it, and the source of the water. Some water supplies have a lot of sand or minerals in them and the filters clog up fast. Others have little impact at all on the filter. You just have to check occasionally. Or if the water flow at the faucets gets low - that's a symptom of a clogged filter.
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:27 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by sjallen74 View Post
Thanks Chuck, was wondering what that tool was used for. Another newbie here. Quick question about the water filter, how long are they good for. Is there any set schedule for to use for replacing them ?
Since you just got your rig, I'd change out the filter anyhow. They're not that expensive. When you purchase the new filter the packaging will usually note how many gallons it will effectively filter, before needing replacement. You could be semi scientific and keep track of how much water has gone through the filter, by number of fresh water tank fills or full hooks for x amount of days or just write the date changed on it and change it out annually or more frequent if you use it a lot.

Not sure of the climate where you're at, but one very important thing this time of year. Be sure to winterize your rig. Broken plumbing from freezing pipes would be a real downer come spring time.
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