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Old 11-11-2015, 11:03 AM   #15
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Cit and buff is to eliminate orange peel, sags, and potentially small contaminants. I would agree most big MHs are not cut and buffed, it is a labor intensive process. New cars are not cut and buffed, but they also have very controlled paint booth conditions that help minimize orange peel.

Will cut and buff make your MH look better? For sure it will be smoother and shinier. And your wallet will be thinner. As with most things in life it is a trade-off.
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Old 11-11-2015, 11:25 AM   #16
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I would want to watch them sand and buff the clearcoat to be sure they did it correctly and did the whole rig.

How will you know you got your money's worth otherwise?
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Old 11-11-2015, 11:33 AM   #17
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Our Suncruiser was sanded and buffed completely,,, I couldn't believe it, but the finish is fantastic,,, better than a lot of new cars I have seen. Like others, I think it strange that it is even offered as an option. We sanded and buffed every job that went out the door,,, was just SOP to give the best possible job.
So it looks like there may be no clear industry standard when it comes to cutting and buffing new motorhomes. But I think it's really weird that Newmar won't do it even if you're willing to pay them. And Nexus offers it as an option. And perhaps some manufacturers do it to all of their new motorhomes? Oh well, what are you gonna do. Cheers.
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Old 11-11-2015, 12:03 PM   #18
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I have also been reading up on their new class A, unfortunately not much info with owners or even magazine reviews

Price - I know many state that when you buy a new RV 20-30% off msrp seems to be the norm, when my soon to be X and I purchased our bounder we were at +40% off. Anyways, I assumed that when people buy direct they will not be paying their msrp either but a negotiated price which could be in the same 20-30% off range? If these are slow selling I would bet they would be very willing to offer deep discounts to get some on the road. But yes.... Being one of the first owners can be good and bad

This Bentley seems similar in price to fleetwoods excursion line however the Bentley has more slides, more power and more stuff inside, it doesn't seem to be built as a entry level DP but more of a mid range DP.

I also thought it was unusual for them to charge $2k for the extra paintwork. However from reading this thread I give them credit for giving people that option.
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Old 11-11-2015, 02:37 PM   #19
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no fiberglass roof (BriteTEK instead), no aluminum wheels (chrome wheel simulators), only a 1200 Watt modified sine wave inverter compared to a 2000 Watt pure sine wave inverter, etc.
BriteTek is fine IMO, but understand Newmar may not list certain options but many changes and or addons can be had. When you get further along in your process call the factory or regional sales mgr and ask.
I did they were very accommodating and charged fair prices for what I wanted.

Now if they didn't want to change a few things look at the cost of making those changes later.

there is a lot merit to the comfort drive, it works great,

A Newmar upon resale win hands down over this new brand, now let's say you don't like the Bentley try trading it in on another brand...............................you'll take a big hit.

But if you do want it make sure you get a good long test drive.

All a moot point as we changed our minds and are keeping what we have for now.
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:06 PM   #20
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If it is done right, the finish will look better. If you can indoor store your coach, & don't mind blowing $2K-might be OK... but, I am not so sure Nexus has the right guys doing the wet sand. I have done a wet sand or 2, it takes a long time to get the right results.


The finish will also look better if you apply a high quality wax with plenty of petroleum in it-Maguires makes a good one in a toothpaste style tube-that is supposed to be for just white cars, but works good on almost anything.
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:51 PM   #21
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BriteTek is fine IMO, but understand Newmar may not list certain options but many changes and or addons can be had. When you get further along in your process call the factory or regional sales mgr and ask.
I did they were very accommodating and charged fair prices for what I wanted.

Now if they didn't want to change a few things look at the cost of making those changes later.

there is a lot merit to the comfort drive, it works great,

A Newmar upon resale win hands down over this new brand, now let's say you don't like the Bentley try trading it in on another brand...............................you'll take a big hit.

But if you do want it make sure you get a good long test drive.

All a moot point as we changed our minds and are keeping what we have for now.
Thanks for the great info! I just have to make time to get to the Nexus factory AND the RV dealer that has the Newmar I'm interested in checking out (wish they were both closer to home; but only about 3 hours away each, so not that bad.). This seems like the right time of year to get a good price on the coaches that are already built, like the Newmar (Nexus only builds the Bentleys to order). It's one thing to see them on the internet and another to see them in person. Plus a good, long test drive, as you say. Should help immensely with my decision. Take care!
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:51 PM   #22
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If it is done right, the finish will look better. If you can indoor store your coach, & don't mind blowing $2K-might be OK... but, I am not so sure Nexus has the right guys doing the wet sand.

Do you have experience with their work?
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:10 PM   #23
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Thanks for the great info! I just have to make time to get to the Nexus factory AND the RV dealer that has the Newmar I'm interested in checking out (wish they were both closer to home; but only about 3 hours away each, so not that bad.). This seems like the right time of year to get a good price on the coaches that are already built, like the Newmar (Nexus only builds the Bentleys to order). It's one thing to see them on the internet and another to see them in person. Plus a good, long test drive, as you say. Should help immensely with my decision. Take care!
if you get to the factory and can see two coaches side by side - one with cut and buff and the other without, be sure to report back what your impressions were.
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:58 PM   #24
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Just my 2 cents worth when you cut and buff you are removing a certain amount of the clear coat. So in my mind I see the clear coat coming off the front and rear caps of most motor homes so why would you want to remove some of the protection for a little more shine? Just saying
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:31 PM   #25
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Here's a good example showing before and after....$2k seems like a bargain to me

http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrSb...7nqIK_Gg9O88g-
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:34 AM   #26
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No, I do not have experience with their work.

The wet Sanding process is very tedious, the clear Coat can be sanded through (where the Clear is thin) . If the wet sanding is not done by someone really good, experienced, and very careful-the finish of the vehicle can be ruined, or . at least the life of the finish shortened.

What generally happens-the coach is buffed-a high petroleum based wax is applied-and the vehicle is delivered sparkling. Soon to be dulled down to a normal finish by the passing of a short period of time.

Wax applied is called "lifetime finish" sold for a lot of money & generally good for a year or so, because it is on a new finish, the shine would pretty much last that long anyway.
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:49 AM   #27
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Just my 2 cents worth when you cut and buff you are removing a certain amount of the clear coat. So in my mind I see the clear coat coming off the front and rear caps of most motor homes so why would you want to remove some of the protection for a little more shine? Just saying
Yeah, this is something I hadn't thought of. Does anyone who is familiar with the procedure know if this is a potential problem? It seems to me that with the motorhomes they plan to cut and buff, they would want to make sure there was a thick coat of clear on the surface (maybe an extra coat) so that it didn't burn through in spots. Or maybe the cut and buff process takes off such a thin layer of the clear that burning through the clear down to the paint layer isn't a real problem. Any thoughts from the experts?

Also, in regard a coach where the clear is coming off the front and rear caps: is this just a case of poor workmanship or cutting corners, perhaps because not enough coats were applied in the first place? Or is this something that happens to most coaches after, say, 10 years or more. And then you have to get them sprayed again? Thanks.
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