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Old 10-16-2018, 12:55 PM   #15
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So I noticed after I had issues the inverter was set for the default setting of 30 amps instead of 50 amps
The shore power setting defaults to 30 A. Set it to match the shore power you have available, 30A, 50A, 15A etc.
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Old 10-16-2018, 05:21 PM   #16
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What happened was that with the microwave, refrigerator, and 3 space heaters running they were most likely all plugged into inverted outlets. Your inverter has a pass through function so that when shore power is available the power passes through the inverter and powers the outlets that are connected to it. The problem is that the inverters breaker (usually located on the side of the inverter) is most likely rated for 30 amps which with turning on the microwave put the load over the top and tripped it. It is not that you do not have shore power or generator power (I bet your air conditioners will still work) it is just the outlets that are connected to the inverter that are not powered. The key to it being the inverters breaker is the fact that you said the inverter was not charging which is also a symptom of the inverters breaker being tripped.

When running a large draw item such as the microwave (which I am sure is on the inverters circuit) plug your space heaters into outlets that are not inverted (if you have such a thing). The way to find such outlets is to unplug from shore power and have the inverter turned ON and plug something into each outlet one at a time. Every outlet that is not powered is a non-inverted outlet.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!we do not have to sleep in our office anymore! Thanks to everyone that suggested the inverter breaker, but you're explanation was amazing, it inspired me to leave our business for just a little while and go see if I could find the inverter breaker and fix the problem. You not only knew the root cause, but you explained how the inverter works in terms I could even understand!

I love reading all the posts in the forum, although some of the problems I read about scare the bajesus out of me, and wonder if I made a mistake in ever owning an RV, but today you made my day and so glad I joined the forum and posted my problem.
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Old 10-16-2018, 05:40 PM   #17
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"larliebler"......Typically, when you overload the system, you should check circuit breakers in order. Each coach can be different, but my Monaco with a Magnum Inverter and reset on the side, was usually the first to blow.

If you're on shore power and blow a circuit....do the easy stuff first, check the circuit breakers inside the coach and the GFCI switches (should have at least one in the bathroom). If those are good, head outside and check the Magnum. If that is good, the next one is the power pole circuits.

If you're on generator power, follow the same as above, but your last check would be the circuit breaker on the nose of the generator.
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Old 10-16-2018, 05:51 PM   #18
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!we do not have to sleep in our office anymore! Thanks to everyone that suggested the inverter breaker, but you're explanation was amazing, it inspired me to leave our business for just a little while and go see if I could find the inverter breaker and fix the problem. You not only knew the root cause, but you explained how the inverter works in terms I could even understand!

I love reading all the posts in the forum, although some of the problems I read about scare the bajesus out of me, and wonder if I made a mistake in ever owning an RV, but today you made my day and so glad I joined the forum and posted my problem.
Glad things worked out and you got power re-established. Happy to help.
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Old 10-16-2018, 08:12 PM   #19
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"larliebler"......Typically, when you overload the system, you should check circuit breakers in order. Each coach can be different, but my Monaco with a Magnum Inverter and reset on the side, was usually the first to blow.

If you're on shore power and blow a circuit....do the easy stuff first, check the circuit breakers inside the coach and the GFCI switches (should have at least one in the bathroom). If those are good, head outside and check the Magnum. If that is good, the next one is the power pole circuits.

If you're on generator power, follow the same as above, but your last check would be the circuit breaker on the nose of the generator.
Thank you, I will keep that in mind for the future.
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Old 10-16-2018, 08:25 PM   #20
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:23 AM   #21
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Does anyone know if you can upgrade form a 30 amp service to a 50 amp service, in a 1996 rexhaul arebus
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:26 AM   #22
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I plugged into a 110 shore line and now only the battery's not the ac work, any ideas
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:51 AM   #23
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Does anyone know if you can upgrade form a 30 amp service to a 50 amp service, in a 1996 rexhaul arebus
You will get a better response to your question by starting your own thread in the RV systems abd appliances forum. . The answer to your question is yes but it is expensive. You need a new 50 amp converter, 50 amp power cord and a new 50 amp transfer switch if you have a 30 now. And an electrician to wire it.
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:26 PM   #24
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Unplanned, that's exactly what happened to us last week when we arrived and hooked up. EMS showed good power from the pole, but we had no power in the coach. Fortunately, a local service guy was able to splice around the transfer switch for shore power so we could finish our week in comfort. We need to replace the transfer switch. Any suggestions as to the better or best ones to buy? We're looking at maybe a Progressive or the Go Power! (their exclamation point, not mine), but the size of the box may be a controlling factor. Any thoughts or comments or further suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 10-20-2018, 04:19 AM   #25
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Unplanned, that's exactly what happened to us last week when we arrived and hooked up. EMS showed good power from the pole, but we had no power in the coach. Fortunately, a local service guy was able to splice around the transfer switch for shore power so we could finish our week in comfort. We need to replace the transfer switch. Any suggestions as to the better or best ones to buy? We're looking at maybe a Progressive or the Go Power! (their exclamation point, not mine), but the size of the box may be a controlling factor. Any thoughts or comments or further suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Your profile shows a 2000 model year RV.

With almost 19 years of service, why look for a " Better " transfer switch ?

The one that fits right in, gave you good service.
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Old 10-21-2018, 12:07 PM   #26
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I would probably ask the same question, twinboat. However, we have a PS245L from Todd Engineering. My understanding is that that went out of business in about 2011 due to lawsuits resulting from faulty products. We've been fortunate I suppose. This leads me to explore replacement switches from other manufacturers. As mentioned, I'm researching Progressive, Go Power!, and maybe Lyght Power Systems or PowerMax.

When pulling the cover of our fried box, I noticed it says "50 A/Pole 4 Pole". Is this just to allow for any temporary spikes in amps? Also, some of the switches seem to be a lot less complicated inside and not really reflective of our fried box. I'll try to include pictures to show the more complicates wiring scheme we have. The PowerMax PMTS-30 30 Amp has a central row of 12 terminals w/screws which is very similar in appearance to our PS245L. Any thoughts, comments, or suggestions? Thanks
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Old 11-01-2018, 04:39 PM   #27
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A second appeal...

Any suggestions for a replacement 30AMP power transfer switch for the unavailable PS245L from Todd Engineering?

Thanks
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