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Old 09-27-2014, 11:54 AM   #1
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No 12v need help

Hey all, 2000 Damon Intruder, ford chassis.
Ive lost 12v power. Everything was working fine.
I have 12v on shore power, and on Genset.
But thats where it ends.
Batteries have 13.2v. I took 6v batteries out cleaned them and replaced some crappy looking cables.
I have 13.2v up to the intettitec lug for coach. All of those fuses are good, but from labels I don't think any of those would be part of the problem.

Anyone have any suggestions of where I could look for something?
I see a button for testing something on the genset. It says with genny off, and shore power disconnected it should click when it is pushed. It doesn't. Could that be part of my problem?

Please ask me questions if I haven't given enough info

Thanks in advance for any insight.
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:26 PM   #2
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There is the possibility that the , salesman switch ( coach battery disconnect ) has been flipped, or that the relay in that system has failed.
But that would usually effect 12v from shore power as well.
If you get, 12v system power when the gen set runs, I doubt that the C/B on the set is a problem, I think it would only click if it needed to be reset.
I'll scratch my head for a while and re-post if I think of anything that might help.
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:26 PM   #3
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I think Skip is right, the salesman switch, on my Damon Intruder it is places where I have several times hit it by accident. IT DOES NOT affect Shore provided 12vdc When I plug in the converter (Progressive Dynamics 9180 with wizard) powers everything, not even my TS-2000 (Ham radio) knows it is not on battery power.

The converter is on the HOUSE side of the disconnect relay.

Now: some other thought... On my coach one day in Utah I used this switch because it cuts off all the DSI devices (Fridge, Water heater, furnace) and I was buying propane... Went to restore 12v after I left the propane pump.... NO JOY, Fixed it at my next stop (did a bypass till I fixed it)

I also modified the switch to make it harder to hit by accident.

Ask if you need more info.
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:45 PM   #4
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Could that switch be bad? (Intellitec BD1) It appears to be working while on shore or genny. (displaying house and coach voltages) But when off shore or Genny it's dead.

another note: when I first saw I had trouble the numbers on the intellitec switch were a bit jumbled and flickering.
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Old 09-27-2014, 03:01 PM   #5
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I don't specifically know your coach. But, on my coach I would suspect the batteries. When you are connected to either shore or running the gen you are likely powering the battery charger which in turn provides the 12 vdc that you are reading when connected to shore or running gen. That also tells me that the battery to coach 12vdc panel is intact. When shore or gen is discoed or off you are reading 13.2vdc on the house battery bank which tells me that you are reading surface charge..........fully charged you should read 12.6 or 12.7 or perhaps you are reading the voltage at the battery when the battery charger is on. I would disco batteries and allow them to rest for a few hours then read specific gravity using a hydrometer available at parts house cheap. Once this is done report your readings and we can go from there.
On review: read post #3 regarding "salesman's switch". To test WA8YXM's theory you could jumper the two large lugs on the salesman's switch solenoid. If this restores 12vdc then the solenoid is bad.
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Old 09-27-2014, 03:38 PM   #6
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Although I have a fiver, I, too, lost my 12v and had the same symptoms as yours...I searched high and low and finally found the circuit breaker that disconnected the batteries from the coach - I have included a picture. The red arrow points to the single resettable breaker's little black reset switch, the others are auto reset.

edit: I guess I should have said that you push on the little black switch and it will 'click' if it had tripped. You will need to troubleshoot why it tripped...or reset it and hope it doesn't happen again!

another edit: Notice the 'buss bar' that goes across the top of the breakers and then note how, if the first breaker is tripped, no juice will make it to the rest of the 12volt feeds since the 12v feed is the bottom two red wires on the right end of the breaker array...

I hope that is of some help!

Tim
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:48 PM   #7
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I found this

It clicks when pushed into the store position, but nothing in the run position.

The back of the BD1 was sprayed with Black foam from the outside. There is rust on it also so it wasn't sealed. perhaps something shorted?

I would still like to know if this is the problem before I spend $75 on a new one.




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Old 09-27-2014, 04:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffk48867 View Post
Could that switch be bad? (Intellitec BD1) It appears to be working while on shore or genny. (displaying house and coach voltages) But when off shore or Genny it's dead.

another note: when I first saw I had trouble the numbers on the intellitec switch were a bit jumbled and flickering.
Ah, that is the same one I have... There are two switches, on the top one (As I recall without going and looking) either position reads the HOUSE voltage, not the battery voltage but the HOUSE voltage.. Be it supplied by the battery, or the converter, So this meter is basically useless in this case.

The other switch,, When you press it you should hear a CLUNK, does not matter if you press UP or DOWN (USE/STORE) it should clunk.. (More on that in a sec) you may need to be outside or at the rear of the coach to hear the clunk depending on where they put it but on my Workhorse its' up front.

IF IT DOES NOT CLUNK in the USE position,, you have the very same issue I had..

How to fix:
If you have the fuse chart for the Intelletec Battery Control Center.. Pull the fuse that feeds it, Verify it now fails to clunk in either position.

Cycle it both ways like 50-100 times.

Restore fuse and pray.

Worked for me.. But Well.. I consider it luck that it worked.

IF you do not knwo what fuse it is, pull all the 5 amp fuses.
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:57 PM   #9
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Yes I hear the clunk in the store position, but not in the use position. Are you talking about the 5 amp fuses in the intellitec control center panel?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Ah, that is the same one I have... There are two switches, on the top one (As I recall without going and looking) either position reads the HOUSE voltage, not the battery voltage but the HOUSE voltage.. Be it supplied by the battery, or the converter, So this meter is basically useless in this case.

The other switch,, When you press it you should hear a CLUNK, does not matter if you press UP or DOWN (USE/STORE) it should clunk.. (More on that in a sec) you may need to be outside or at the rear of the coach to hear the clunk depending on where they put it but on my Workhorse its' up front.

IF IT DOES NOT CLUNK in the USE position,, you have the very same issue I had..

How to fix:
If you have the fuse chart for the Intelletec Battery Control Center.. Pull the fuse that feeds it, Verify it now fails to clunk in either position.

Cycle it both ways like 50-100 times.

Restore fuse and pray.

Worked for me.. But Well.. I consider it luck that it worked.

IF you do not knwo what fuse it is, pull all the 5 amp fuses.
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:53 PM   #10
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With the problems your having , I'd say that control is junk.

In the meantime , you could find and by-pass the relay.
By moving the supply cable to the same side as the loads.
In this picture the disconnect relay is in the top, just right of center, coach battery power cable coming through the compartment wall and attaching to the relay. The other side ( distribution ) goes to all the C/B's , you loose disconnect and voltage readout functions , but you can operate off batteries.
Your set up won't look like this but the relay will be the same.
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:51 PM   #11
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That is exactly what happened to mine in 2006.. I disconnected it, blowing the fuse in the process,, You can just as easily pull the 5 amp fuse (it is in the Intelletec Battery control center, If you are unsure which 5 amp fuse pull 'em all)

Then operate the switch, You should not longer hear a clunk or click when you press STORE.. if not, you pulled the right fuse, operate like 100 times each way, Restore fuse and see if it works.

IF it does pick from the following two chioces

1: Run out and buy lotto tickets while your luck is still running high
2: Refrain from running out and buying lotto tickets cause you just used up your Luck allotment for the time being.

Fact: Switches are often self cleaning, but if they get too dirty/or tarnished they can not self clean fast enough, Removing power and operating them.. Polishes them up rather nicely.... If you are lucky that is.
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Old 09-29-2014, 03:08 PM   #12
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Well I ordered a Intellitec BD1 switch. It'll be here in a couple of days. I'll keep the thread updated as to the results.

I appreciate all of the ideas.
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Old 10-01-2014, 04:18 PM   #13
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Problem solved

I put in the new BD1 and all is well.
I learned quite a bit in the process too.
Sometimes just finding where the builders tucked these little things away is BIG
I now have a basic understanding as to how the battery disconnect circuit works.
Thanks for all who chimed in.
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Old 10-01-2014, 07:51 PM   #14
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Glad you're up and running.
Thanks for wrapping up your post.
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