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Old 08-23-2015, 07:06 PM   #1
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No crank start

Hello, I'm new to the forum. Flying solo and recently bought a 1989 Gulfstream Sun Stream Hi-Rise that I've been having to do lots of mods and repairs on. Latest issue: Had driven RV home from having brakes repaired. Got home, parked, then decided to move the rig. When I tried to start, it made a slow crank, but then just rapid clicking sounds. One of the battery terminal cables had become loose and melted the post. I bought an adapter, attached to the other post on same side, and reattached all wires, exactly as they were before. I still have just a slight crank, but repeated clicking sounds. Also, I noticed I have no headlights. All batteries are deep cycle, NEW, and fully charged. All terminal ends are intact. Everything securely fastened. House lights work inside, but still no headlights and no start... just the clicking. I'm stuck... of course, I have limited knowledge of autos/RVs, so it's a rough time trying to diagnose and explain properly, so please excuse my lack of knowledge.

It's a 454 on a P30 chassis.
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Old 08-23-2015, 07:24 PM   #2
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It's the battery. Bad connection on the + or - side of the battery. Check the ground and the + side to the starter solenoid. Bad connection somewhere
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Old 08-23-2015, 07:53 PM   #3
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Ok, bear in mind, I'm a girl... so... how do I know WHICH solenoid is the starter solenoid? I see three that are under the front "hood." The ones on the outer edges say coach/chassis and then there is a solid silver, smaller one in the middle that the two outer solenoids attach to.
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:03 PM   #4
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These 3 are NOT the one your looking for.

Two of them are used to disconnect the chassis and house batteries.
The 3rd is used as a emergency start. This is connected to a switch on the dash
And puts all you batteries in parallel when the chassis battery is too low to start the engine.
This is like a jump start.

Your problem is likely a bad chassis battery.....may have been damaged by the heated terminal.
look for one more solenoid.
Try finding the starter, and tracing the big cable back to the start relay.
Normally the clicking is because you have low voltage.
This can be a bad battery, or a bad connection.

The bad terminal you had could have prevented proper charging of the battery.

Have you tried the Aux Start switch on the dash when starting ?

Dan
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:06 PM   #5
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Dan, yes, I have. In fact, when I recently bought this rig, I was told that It would only start using the aux battery button. However, this is not working now. I had the battery checked/tested after the melted post incident at autozone and they said it's fine.
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachbound View Post
Dan, yes, I have. In fact, when I recently bought this rig, I was told that It would only start using the aux battery button. However, this is not working now. I had the battery checked/tested after the melted post incident at autozone and they said it's fine.
If you had a brand new battery, then you should NOT have to use aux start, aux start is used when the chassis battery is low.


If you are still using the aux start switch and nothing is happening then your House batteries are dead and that is why it is not working


When pressing aux battery button do you get power to the instruments, (lights etc...)?
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachbound View Post
Dan, yes, I have. In fact, when I recently bought this rig, I was told that It would only start using the aux battery button. However, this is not working now. I had the battery checked/tested after the melted post incident at autozone and they said it's fine.
If you have the orig battery when you bought the RV, AND autozone says the battery is good, then orig problem still exists.

Can you plug into shore power, then meassure the voltage on all batteries.
If you meassure 14 volts or more, the battery is charging. You need to be sure ALL batteries are charged.

Now, with all batteries charged, if you stiil need Aux Sart switch, it is a heavy cable wiring problem.

Dan
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:29 PM   #8
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All batteries are new and fully charged. the wiring is rigged coming from the batteries to the 3 solenoids I mentioned. I'm trying to upload a photo, but having issues.
I just bought this rig recently. I was told that they always had to use the AUX button to start.


I have ALWAYS had to use the aux button when starting, for whatever reason, even though the batteries are new. As I mentioned, I have NO headlights, no instrument panel/gauges. I'm thinking it is one of those solenoids. I used a test light to ensure power to each terminal on each of those solenoids. Not all terminals are showing power. Each battery has been tested.

I'm probably just not even explaining it well, I'm sorry.
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:32 PM   #9
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Dan, from what you've described, it does sound like a heavy cable issue. I'll assess those when I have daylight again. Thank you for your kindness and patience.
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:44 PM   #10
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OK I'm going to stick my nose in here and ask a REALLY stupid question. I have a similar problem with my coach currently (have to start with aux. start) and I know it is the chassis battery not holding a charge. My coach has 3 batteries - 2 6 volt for the house and a different 12 volt for the engine and chassis. They are located on opposite sides of the motor home. Please don't take this as a 'dumb girl' comment or anything but is it possible you have only checked the house batteries and not the chassis one?

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Old 08-23-2015, 09:11 PM   #11
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Alright Beachbound...here is some reading for tonight.

Think of electricity the same as water flowing through a pipe.
If you need a lot of water, you need a big pipe (like filling a pool), but if you need a little water, a small pipe will do (like a straw).

So the starter need a lot of power, hence the large cable (heavy gauge).
The other things need a lot less power, so they can use the regular wires you see....and even with these, some are a littel bigger than others.

Starting from the battery, the large cable goes to your starting relay (which is a remote controlled switch), and then to the starter motor.

Your key switch is the actual control for the starter relay...it connects to the small terminals.

Now, the important stuff.....somewhere there are additional connections to the battery for all of the other stuff. There should be another heavy type wire from the battery to the fuse box. This fuse box is where all of the other things in the chassis split of (there is a fuse for each split).

What I have tried to describe above, can be thought of as a tree..with branches splitting off. At the root of the tree is the battery.

So you can imagine that if one branch of the tree is cut, then everything on that branch no longer gets power.

Why in the heck is he telling me all of this...you may ask??? Good question.
Since your headlights are also not working, then your problem is somewhere in the tree BEFORE the headlights branch off (get their power).

The problem connection is preventing the headlights from working AND The starter from running at full voltage.

The only caveat is that if you had a completly open circuit (cut wire), then you would not hear the clicking sound. The clicking sound is caused by a low voltage. The relay gets barely enough voltage to close and make the click, but then the big load that the started puts on the system causes the voltage to drop too low, and the relay releases....this just keeps repeating, so you here the clicking.

Pictures would really help the forum to give you better advice...so keep trying.

Regards,

Dan
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:34 AM   #12
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Beachbound, if Autozone tested the battery with a portable battery tester, the reading could be wrong. The battery needs to be tested on a bench tester that can place a load on it. Sometimes a battery will test good until a load is placed on it, then it will lose voltage and cranking amps.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:38 AM   #13
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Wow!! Fabulous analogy. Now I understand it better and can diagnose more efficiently. I'm going to get some photos to add here.

Thank you so much!!! I'll be back soon.


QUOTE=dpinvidic;2711534]Alright Beachbound...here is some reading for tonight.

Think of electricity the same as water flowing through a pipe.
If you need a lot of water, you need a big pipe (like filling a pool), but if you need a little water, a small pipe will do (like a straw).

So the starter need a lot of power, hence the large cable (heavy gauge).
The other things need a lot less power, so they can use the regular wires you see....and even with these, some are a littel bigger than others.

Starting from the battery, the large cable goes to your starting relay (which is a remote controlled switch), and then to the starter motor.

Your key switch is the actual control for the starter relay...it connects to the small terminals.

Now, the important stuff.....somewhere there are additional connections to the battery for all of the other stuff. There should be another heavy type wire from the battery to the fuse box. This fuse box is where all of the other things in the chassis split of (there is a fuse for each split).

What I have tried to describe above, can be thought of as a tree..with branches splitting off. At the root of the tree is the battery.

So you can imagine that if one branch of the tree is cut, then everything on that branch no longer gets power.

Why in the heck is he telling me all of this...you may ask??? Good question.
Since your headlights are also not working, then your problem is somewhere in the tree BEFORE the headlights branch off (get their power).

The problem connection is preventing the headlights from working AND The starter from running at full voltage.

The only caveat is that if you had a completly open circuit (cut wire), then you would not hear the clicking sound. The clicking sound is caused by a low voltage. The relay gets barely enough voltage to close and make the click, but then the big load that the started puts on the system causes the voltage to drop too low, and the relay releases....this just keeps repeating, so you here the clicking.

Pictures would really help the forum to give you better advice...so keep trying.

Regards,

Dan[/QUOTE]
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Old 08-24-2015, 02:18 PM   #14
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Here I am again, growing increasingly frustrated.

I replaced the worn heavy cables. I assured everything was tight and attached in exact manner as before.

STILL, no headlights, a semi-crank when ignition turned, then just rapid clicking. However, I do notice that the heavy cable running from the solenoid on the top right, that runs to a negative post on the center battery is very warm.

Grrr.... still trying to figure out how to attach an image!!!
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