NO HEAT in bathroom or bedroom

[ScottyBye]

Originally Posted by bruceisla

Can you put some dialog to that picture? ... not sure what we are looking at.

This is a section of the floor that I ripped up after exhausting every other option as to why I have not heat/ Air flow to my bedroom and washroom. So the picture is showing the bandaid fix that previous owner did... spray foam insulation and plywood.
Maybe they didn't realize that the area they were working on was actually the infloor ductwork for the furnace.

[buxtonworks]

I have a access door that backs up to bathroom that is where my bathroom vent is secured to the floor duct just one more access. I also got under the kitchen cabinet and in removed the duct from there.


Buxtonworks Monaco 30 pbd

[Carhauler]

Access compressed air, disconnect duct at the blower. Shoot compressed air into duct,ckeck vents at other end and if you dislodged obstruction.

[Dutch Star Don]

Glad you got it figured out......good job!

[mel s]

Originally Posted by Carhauler

Access compressed air, disconnect duct at the blower. Shoot compressed air into duct,ckeck vents at other end and if you dislodged obstruction.

Carhauler
Apparently ScottyBye, (the OP), has found the cause of his "NO HEAT in bathroom or bedroom" problem....(See posts #24 and #28).

[ScottyBye]

Originally Posted by mel s

Carhauler
Apparently ScottyBye, (the OP), has found the cause of his "NO HEAT in bathroom or bedroom" problem....(See posts #24 and #28).

That's correct.
The reason I had no heat or air flow from the floor registers in the bathroom and bedroom was because a previous owner must have had a water leak in the toilet area in the washroom. Their fix was to rip up the damaged section of the floor and replace the water damaged section with new plywood. BUT before putting down the new plywood subfloor they made a real stupid move and sprayed expanding foam between the floor joists (not a good idea) So either they never knew the difference or didn't care. And this foam was the cause of the blockage.

They must have used a can or two because I removed (2) 5 gallon buckets of foam not to mention what got sucked up into the shop-vac.

The air flow is now good in all areas, but the furnace is still cycling. I have been trying to figure out what else could be wrong but it's a work in progress.

[ScottyBye]

In an attempt to try everything possible to stop my furnace from short cycling on hi temp switch this is what I have done next.

Enlarge the size of the Supply Air Opening in the floor.



The results of before and after was noticeable in the volume of air flow at each duct throughout the coach.
Unfortunately the furnace still trips on the hi temp switch.

So next I removed the blower motor and inspected squirrel cage blowers both supply and exhaust. All was good.

Next I removed the exhaust vent tube and blew out the heater exchanger with compressed air. No blockages. But I did notice something with the exhaust tube itself that I found strange. The end that slides into the heat exchanger looked bent. And to me that would create a restriction in the exhaust gas from the heat exchanger. Here is a pic. What do you guys think? Damaged or normal vent tube?

[Arricejr]

Originally Posted by ScottyBye

When I purchased my MH last summer I did all the normal checks...

But I did not check all the heat registers in the floor when running the LP furnace. (Lesson Learned)



So if found that I have little to no heat/air flow in the bathroom, and absolutly No Heat/Air flow in the bedroom.



Here is what I have done so far.



- found that the furnace runs fine for a few minuted till the internal furnace reaches the 190 degrees which then opens the circuit for the High Temp Limit Safety Switch. (located on a small bracket in the center of the heat exchanger.) So the switch is doing its job fine.



- removed the supply air metal duct from the furnace which directs the most of the air from the blower into the floor duct system. Located in the Return Air space under the fridge / behind the RA Vent Cover



- noticed that the hole that the manufacturer cut in the floor wasn't large enough to supply the correct air volume supplied by my model furnace. So I used a rotozip saw and fixed that problem.



- this did not make any difference to the air flow in bathroom or bedroom floor registers. (And is why the High Temp Switch is opening...is suspect)



- removed both registers and inspected with a mirror and flashlight but did not find any obstructions.



- bought a 15 foot endoscope camera (USB to laptop) and tried fishing it into the duct work to inspect better... Unfortunately the image quality is not what I expected, and looks more like a camera is being fished into the belly of a cow... meaning i see lots of things but cannot determine what they are.



- I have laminate floor and was think if removing it to maybe cut into the subfloor (3/4 inch plywood) but found that the previous owner who installed the flooring has glued it down. And it's not going anywhere easy.



So if someone has some advise or previous experience please share



The furnace is an Atwood 8500 series

Had this problem when I bought my coach and I had the same unit too.. only difference is my coach has two furnaces one heats the bathroom and the under storage compartment and the other the house heat.. what I found was my duck work between my rear wheel area under in the floor where it goes into the bedroom was cut in half but when I tell you it was hard as hell to see it drove me nuts I had no heat in bedroom still can't understand why they decided to put the bathroom on a separate unit in my case and yes it's factory even crazier is the thermostat for the bathroom is on the wall in the bedroom I thought for the longest time my main furnace didn't work until I realized the stat in the kitchen is for the main unit ?? Wth?? I would of rather Been able to control the main from the bedroom as well but enough of drama...check and recheck duck work

[Arricejr]

Originally Posted by TBS-POPS

Are you sure you only have one furnace??? Took me a couple of trips to find out we had two. Zone 1 is front and zone 2 is bedroom and bathroom..

What's the point of the dual furnace I just found out my coach has 2 as well on for bathroom and storage compartments under rig??

[Arricejr]

Originally Posted by ScottyBye

That's correct.

The reason I had no heat or air flow from the floor registers in the bathroom and bedroom was because a previous owner must have had a water leak in the toilet area in the washroom. Their fix was to rip up the damaged section of the floor and replace the water damaged section with new plywood. BUT before putting down the new plywood subfloor they made a real stupid move and sprayed expanding foam between the floor joists (not a good idea) So either they never knew the difference or didn't care. And this foam was the cause of the blockage.



They must have used a can or two because I removed (2) 5 gallon buckets of foam not to mention what got sucked up into the shop-vac.



The air flow is now good in all areas, but the furnace is still cycling. I have been trying to figure out what else could be wrong but it's a work in progress.

Glad you got it!!! Check your cycling switch my was bad

[ScottyBye]

Originally Posted by Arricejr

check and recheck duck work

Ductwork is now good, great airflow at all floor registers.

[ScottyBye]

Originally Posted by Arricejr

Glad you got it!!! Check your cycling switch my was bad

By cycling switch I assume you are refering to the Hi Temperature Limit Switch. The switch is doing its job and opening the flame circuit at 190°F as designed. The switch then closes again at about 115-120°F, and the burner ignites again into heat mode.

[Arricejr]

Originally Posted by ScottyBye

By cycling switch I assume you are refering to the Hi Temperature Limit Switch. The switch is doing its job and opening the flame circuit at 190°F as designed.

You did say it's going on and off quickly or am I miss understanding you

[ScottyBye]

Originally Posted by Arricejr

You did say it's going on and off quickly or am I miss understanding you

On a call for heat the furnace goes through it's SOP (sequence of operation) just fine. The system trips at 190 which usually takes 4-5 minutes depending on ambiant temperature. Blower motor remains running until combustion chamber reaches closing set point of the HTLS. Then whole process starts again.