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Old 07-25-2012, 10:33 AM   #1
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NO Hot Water

On my third trip this year with my first MH. No hot water issues until now. I put my hot water on last night and this morning, no HW. Bypass valve is in the correct position. The fuse on the control board is good and has power. Not sure what else to check. Any troubleshooting tips would be appreciated. The DW may not be happy taking cold showers all week.
Thanks.....
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:38 AM   #2
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Do you keep turning the heater on and off? Could have blew the heater element. You'd be better off letting it cycle on it's thermostat. cold to hot to cold stretches the heater coil.

Check if you have voltage across the heater coil itself
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:05 AM   #3
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I guess I posted a little to quick. I pulled and reconnected all of the connections. Even though the heater was turned off, I could hear a relay click every time I disconnected a connector. Anyway, when I was done I had the DW turn the heater on and it lit immediately. Thank you.

Livin and learin.......
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:10 AM   #4
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Sometime when starting it on gas you have to purge the air out of the line when you have had the propane shut off. I always help purge the lines out by lighting a burner at the cook top. Even with this the burner may not light and you will need to shut off the water heater and let it reset and recycle through another light cycle or two.

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Old 07-26-2012, 08:53 AM   #5
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Thanks Ken. Maybe that was it, but I have not been in the habit of shutting off my propane. But it is something else to think about if it happens again.

Thanks!!
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:46 AM   #6
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Be sure your exterbal shower hot water faucet is not on.
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:42 PM   #7
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Well, it happened again. Works for a couple of days and then no hot water. This time I was doing some voltage checks. I had 12 volts coming into the control box and 11 volts out. I shut off the heater, re-connected the wire and turned it back on and it fired up, shut down, fired up, shut down, fired up and stayed running. Something fishy going on. Not sure what.
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:38 AM   #8
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Same thing happed to me a couple of times. First time I fixed it by replacing the fusible link/resistor thing that is connected to the thermostat I believe. It's a resistor looking thing in a clear plastic tube, about 20 bucks at an RV shop. The 2nd time it was a loose ground, (grn wire to the controller corner screw), that was loose. Both times I could wiggle wires and it would work only to stop again after a drive and some vibration. Hope it helps
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:05 AM   #9
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It certainly sounds like a "contact" problem. Get some contact cleaner (Radio Shack) and "hose" it down while checking all grounds for a good connection.
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windydaboo View Post
Same thing happed to me a couple of times. First time I fixed it by replacing the fusible link/resistor thing that is connected to the thermostat I believe. It's a resistor looking thing in a clear plastic tube, about 20 bucks at an RV shop. The 2nd time it was a loose ground, (grn wire to the controller corner screw), that was loose. Both times I could wiggle wires and it would work only to stop again after a drive and some vibration. Hope it helps
Thanks windydaboo. I don't know what that thing in the tube does. It looked like a diode to me because of its shape. I just bought Woodalls RV maintanence book. I'll check it in there. Thanks for your input.

H. Miller, I will also clean the contacts.
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kliwks View Post
Thanks windydaboo. I don't know what that thing in the tube does. It looked like a diode to me because of its shape. I just bought Woodalls RV maintanence book. I'll check it in there. Thanks for your input.

H. Miller, I will also clean the contacts.

Your welcome....
It is a resistor that will burn if it gets too hot, protecting the gas valve from too much voltage or heat. Let's us know what you come up with... Good luck
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:58 AM   #12
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If it starts and stops, 3 times then it will not try again until you reset it by turning it off and on again. When it starts, it is looking for a good flame on the probe, if the burner tube is plugged or dirty it will cause this situation or if the probe tip is not sensing the correct flame, it will do this too.

Maybe this will help. The manual is too big to link. Here is a portion of it. If you PM me with you email address I will send you the complete file.

ELECTRONIC IGNITION MAINTENANCE
The water heater comes factory-equipped with a fused circuit board,
which will protect the circuit board from wiring shorts. If the fuse
should activate, the water heater will not operate. Before replacing
the fuse, check for a short external to the board. Once the short is
corrected, replace the 2 amp fuse with a mini ATO style fuse. Do not
install a fuse larger than 3 amps.
If the fuse is good and the unit is inoperative, check for excessively
high voltage to the unit (more than 14 volts).
If the previous two steps did not solve the problem, check the
thermal cut-off (FIG 3-I). The thermal cutoff is a device installed in the
power supply line. This device will shut off electrical power and stop
heater operation when activated. For example, if an obstruction
within the flue tube should occur, as described in the Preventative
Maintenance section, the burner flame/heat may contact the cutoff,
resulting in a melting of the fuse element incorporated in the
thermal cutoff. In order to restore power and proper operation of the
water heater, the obstruction must be removed and the thermal
cutoff must be replaced.

PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Spiders, mud wasps, and other insects can build nests in the burner
tube. This will cause poor combustion, delayed ignition or ignition
outside combustion tube. Listen for a change in burner sounds or in
flame appearance from a hard blue flame to a soft lazy flame or one
that is very yellow. These are indications of an obstruction in burner
tube (FIG 4-C). Inspect and clean on a regular basis.
a. Remove air shutter screw (FIG 4-A) and slide air shutter (FIG 4-B)
down burner tube.
b. Run a flexible wire brush down burner tube (FIG 4-D) until it is
visible at end of burner tube.
c. Vacuum burner where it enters combustion tube.
d. Return air shutter to original position and replace screw.
e. The orifice, burner tube and shutter must be aligned so that the shutter is not binding on the air tube.

HOW TO CLEAN ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODEL
1. Check main burner orifice.
2. Clean and adjust main burner.
3. Main burner and valve manifold must align with each other
4. Check electrode for cracked porcelain (FIG 4-E).
5. Check electrode for proper gap - 1/8 between electrode and
ground.
6. If module board functions intermittently, remove board and clean
terminal block with pencil eraser (FIG 3-H).
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:36 PM   #13
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The check value behind the hot water heater may be bad that's what it was on my winnebago last year.
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