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Old 08-04-2012, 05:46 PM   #15
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ninos, looks great ! I plan on doing the same to my rig.

But let me put this question out to the techs out there, I heard they only use about 180 watts of power, does it make sense to have it run on it's own 300 to 400 watt inverter in stead of running it off the house inverter which is 2000/ 3000 watt. With my MH layout it would not be hard to hardwire a small inverter.
If it is a 180 watt unit a 300 to 400 to 700 watt in verter will not run it, a 1,000 MIGHT, but frankly I'm not sure.. I tried with a 250 and a 100 watt, No joy. I think I tried with a 450 but not sure. 1000 did the job.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:15 PM   #16
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I have a ford gaser mh with two house batteries and no invertor. What would you suggest I install if I wanted to change my refrigerator to a Samsung RF 197
Thanks
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Old 08-05-2012, 12:31 PM   #17
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Well, I like kilowatt inverters but to be honest my Workhorse alternator can not keep up with a 350 watt RV fridge so I would recommend you not do it.

Now Dometic and Norcold both have full size electric only RV fridges, They work well and suck perhaps 40 watts (a bit over 3 amps) out of your batteries,, That is a very good, if somewhat expensive, alternative.. I have a Engel Freezer that uses the same techonology, If it gets really hot it may start to warm a bit (But it also needs a good dusting on the outside, I plan on taking it out and blasting it with compressed air next time it is empty enough)

But if your system can handle the load,

I like true sine wave inverters, There is much discussion on inductive loads like motors not liking MSW, I have not noticed that myself but.... I have seen and heard what MSW can do to Televison, Radio and Audio. And I'm big into radio. weak signal work too. My prosine, far as the radio knows, is not there. (no noise). The only time the radio notices the prosine is when I accidently pull the plug on the primary converter and use the Prosine instead, (In which case the radio works, normally which it won't if the batteries are dead, happened last week).

You will need at least 1,000 watts to kick start that fridge, Make sure you can take the inverter back and trade up if it's not enough.
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:17 PM   #18
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FWIW, I'm running a Samsung RF197 on a 1000 watt Tripp Lite MSW inverter. It has enough surge capacity to start the compressor even when the TV and DVR are also on.

Our Workhorse chassis has a 160 amp alternator which has no problem keeping the Samsung running on the road. Current draw varies, but I never saw more than 3 amps (120V AC) with my Kill-A-Watt meter. That equates to about 30 amps at 12V DC.

We only have two 6-volt batteries, so we can't boondock; but they will run the fridge up to a couple of hours without shore power and without the motorhome engine running with a max. battery discharge of 50%.
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:10 PM   #19
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One final comment... I notice the O/P called the original RV type fridge a "Never Cold"

Is this why my milk sometiems freezes, Because my Dometic is "Never cold".. Wait, Frozen is TOO cold isn't it?

If I tell my Dometic to make it as cold as possible, things freeze and not just in the freezer compartment.
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:30 PM   #20
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Nicely done you will love the new fridge.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:21 AM   #21
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On my digital amp meter the fridge takes only none amp to run it after it's on and it takes three amps for about a second to start up the compressor.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:32 AM   #22
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One final comment... I notice the O/P called the original RV type fridge a "Never Cold"

Is this why my milk sometiems freezes, Because my Dometic is "Never cold".. Wait, Frozen is TOO cold isn't it?

If I tell my Dometic to make it as cold as possible, things freeze and not just in the freezer compartment.
I must say that my I have been in a lot of rv's and I have owned three and never seen things freeze in the fridge side, you got lucky I guess and the other think is mine is on a slide and the venting is not the best, my original fridge it worked good but it like the Samsung. But the thing I couldn't stend is the fact that there was an open flame in the back of the fridge, my coach almost burned dawn because the gas valve in the back of the fridge went bed and it got really hot back there, the small tray that seats on the bottom to catch the water was already some what melted, and another thing is the space I have 50% more space in this fridge. All this combined was good enough reason for me to make the change. Joe
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:41 AM   #23
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Outstanding job Ninos. Wish I had the space for one, my Dometic NDR 1292 sits on top of the electrical breaker panel, so I would have to move all of that to gain the space to install the samsung 197, however I have been looking a smaller Whirlpool 14 CUFT and install a pull out pantry next to it to take up the space left by the Dometic double door.
Happy trails
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:03 AM   #24
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Inquiring minds want to know how you got that thing in the door?
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:45 AM   #25
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Boondocking

"We only have two 6-volt batteries, so we can't boondock; but they will run the fridge up to a couple of hours without shore power and without the motorhome engine running with a max. battery discharge of 50%."

Does that mean with 4 6V batteries the best we could hope for is to go 4 hours on batteries before needing a charge?

Is there anybody out there who boondocks and has a residential refer?

How often do you have to recharge - in the real world?
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Old 08-06-2012, 12:35 PM   #26
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"We only have two 6-volt batteries, so we can't boondock; but they will run the fridge up to a couple of hours without shore power and without the motorhome engine running with a max. battery discharge of 50%."

Does that mean with 4 6V batteries the best we could hope for is to go 4 hours on batteries before needing a charge?

Is there anybody out there who boondocks and has a residential refer?

How often do you have to recharge - in the real world?
In addition to the refrigerator, our batteries are also running the inverter itself, two TVs on standby, a satellite TV DVR (pulls almost as many amps when it's off as when it's on), a couple of battery chargers (phone and computer) plus any other small loads that may be running off the house batteries. If you have 4 batteries, the second pair will be all gravy for running the fridge. However, for boondocking, I recommend 6 batteries in order to be able to go all night without running the genset.
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Old 08-06-2012, 12:41 PM   #27
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I must say that my I have been in a lot of rv's and I have owned three and never seen things freeze in the fridge side...
Ditto. We've had 4 RVs with both Norcolds and Dometics - never had one get too cold.
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:36 PM   #28
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Nor(as in NOT)Cold

I remember the 'old' NorCold and Dometic refers freezing things all the time! You had to adjust them constantly to compensate for the ambient temps. But the freezers kept things like ice cream as hard as a rock.

Sadly, those days have gone forever. The new units are marginal at best.

We just returned from a week out in the Bounder, half of it boondocking. In that week the NotCold had to be set on 9 90% of the time and the freezer was NEVER cold enough. As near as I could tell all of the fans ran all day long. The ambient temps were in the high 70's most of the time.

We are not happy with NorCold/Dometic at all. But installing a residential refrigerator seems to be out of the question because we boondock fairly often in places where running a generator is akin to serving puppy chili at an ASPCA rally.

I am anticipating replacing the evaporator with an Amish one sometime in the future.
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