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Old 09-26-2014, 05:19 PM   #1
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Question No Water and Only Half My AC Power

I am camping and the only service at the site is 30 amp electrical, which checked out good with my outlet tester. I hooked up Tuesday night and the power worked and I had water. I woke up to sunshine and had no power and no water on Wednesday. I found the 50-30 amp plug adapter went bad and replaced it. I now have half of my electricity back (half the outlets have power) but no water. I figure half the circuits are out due to a breaker or fuse and will continue searching for two of the elusive four fuse/breaker panels the owner's manual claims are in the coach but fails to tell you where they are. I found the one in the electrical bay and on the bed base (all good fuses and closed breakers there).

The water pump is DC so I can't figure out why an AC problem would have knocked it out too. Especially since all the other DC powered components are working and the pump was shut off after my shower. The pump is a Shurflu 5900 with a 10 amp Intellitec latching controller. I thought the problem may have been a stuck pressure switch so I tapped on the side and it kicked on for a brief time but hasn't worked since. The cover piece on the latching controller was popped off. It didn't appear that any of the electrical components were fried so I snapped it back in place. Both pump fuses are all good. All four control switched light when I try to turn on the pump but nothing happens on the pump itself. Any ideas on what to check because the manuals are useless and the spousal unit isn't too happy about my lack of progress

I am wondering if I need to replace either or both components.
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:26 PM   #2
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One thing regarding the water problem that you overlooked is to use your VOM meter to make sure that there is 12 VDC on the positive wire that leads to the water pump when it has been activated with the switch.

Also, the latching controller works on a 12 VDC Ground switch so it is imperative that the ground circuit has a GOOD ground.

If there is no 12 VDC positive and no 12 VDC ground the pump will NOT work.

I will read over your dilemma regarding the power and post back some suggestions.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:33 PM   #3
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Regarding your 30 amp power issue, I would look for a GFI duplex that may have tripped. Usually they are daisy chained together with other outlets.

Also, make sure that your new 30 - 50 amp power adapter has been tested with your VOM meter to make sure that the wires inside were made correctly to split the power to both sides of the 50 amp legs.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:47 PM   #4
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Dr4Film - Thanks for the ideas. I'll go out and check the voltage and ground.

There is an outlet in the water bay that says it is a GFI box but there are no test and reset buttons on the outlet box. I traced it back to a bulkhead with no buttons found which seemed odd. I tripped and reset the bathroom and kitchen GFIs in case one tripped but looked like it was closed but there was no improvement.
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:54 PM   #5
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Richard has given you excellent advice. I would add one thing that will possibly make your spousal unit happy. If you have + 12 volts at the pump you can take a piece of wire and go to some where on the frame. any screw that goes through the case into the frame such as the ones that hold the pump in place will work. Take that piece of wire and force it into the back of the plug on the pump where the black wire plugs into the pump. This will bypass the controller and turn the pump on all of the time. The Pump has a pressure switch so it will not run all of the time only when you are pumping water out and the pressure drops. The only thing this will harm is you will not be able to turn the pump off from the remote switches. If your pump works like this then it might be time to start looking at the controller as the problem. But this will at least buy you some time with working water
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qqvepy View Post
I now have half of my electricity back (half the outlets have power) .
I figure half the circuits are out due to a breaker or fuse and will continue searching for two of the elusive four fuse/breaker panels the owner's manual claims are in the coach but fails to tell you where they are.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Regarding your 30 amp power issue, I would look for a GFI duplex that may have tripped. Usually they are daisy chained together with other outlets.
Also, make sure that your new 30 - 50 amp power adapter has been tested with your VOM meter to make sure that the wires inside were made correctly to split the power to both sides of the 50 amp legs.
Dr4Film ----- Richard
Correct!
If qqvepy, (the OP), has circuit breakers on his inverter, (mine has 2), he should verify that one is not "tripped"
If one is tripped, (popped out), 1/2 of my coach looses 120VAC power.
Mel
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Old 09-29-2014, 03:34 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the help. The loss of power was due to a daisy chain GFCI circuit. The offending outlet was up under the kitchen cabinets behind a dome light.

I finally tore out the water pump and broke it all the way down and it turns out the motor windings were at fault so no rebuild was available. A $200 ouch. I had the 5.7 gpm pump but the largest Shurflo pump now is 4 gpm. I am sure it will be up to the task. Any disagreements?
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Old 09-29-2014, 03:55 PM   #8
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John,

I would not spend that kind of money for a Shur-Flo water pump. I personally think they are junk (my opinion).

The Aqua-Jet is a far better pump and a lot less money. It also works with your 10 amp Latching Controller.

The Remco 55AQUAJET-ARV Aquajet RV Variable Speed Water Pump puts out more water volume and water pressure than any Shur-Flo you will find available today.

RVUpgrades had the best price that I could find, $150.

Remco 55AQUAJET-ARV Aquajet RV Variable Speed Water Pump

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:13 PM   #9
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Thanks!
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