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Old 11-19-2019, 09:47 AM   #1
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Norcold fan constantly on?

I have a 2006 Winnebago Journey and I had a leak in the toilet area. I used a space heater to dry out the flooring and cooked the toilet room for 48 hours just to ensure I got it all. I am in a high humidity area right now (East Coast ocean side) I read about 60% humidity on my in-house meter. Today I noticed my Norcold fridge fan is on and hasn't turned off in 24 hours. I turned off the space heater 24 hours ago. The outdoor temp hear is in the low 70's during the day. From what I've been reading the fan is controled by a thermal switch. Is it possible that was activated and won't turn off now? Also, is high humidity a factor here? Could I reset the fridge my cycling the circuit breaker?

Any help is most appreciated!
E
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Old 11-19-2019, 09:57 AM   #2
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Fridge external fan is controlled by a thermostat (disc) attached to a Condenser FIN (finned section at top of fridge)
T-stat closes at 130*F FIN Temp (not air temps)----opens at 115*F


Access is the issue......
In a slide out...then can access t-stat via upper sidewall vent
NOT in a slide out....then MIGHT be able to access via roof top vent


FAN is DC powered either from the DC Terminal block ---backside of fridge OR DC comes from Lower circuit board ((via lower vent)





AC to fridge is for the electric heat elements only






Brand/Model of fridge??
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Old 11-19-2019, 10:02 AM   #3
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Short answers:
Yes the fan(s) have a thermostat (see Old Biscuit reply)
It's conceivable buy highly unlikely the thermostat is stuck in the On position
No, humidity has nothing to do with it
The fridge circuit breaker will have no effect on the fan.
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Old 11-19-2019, 11:23 AM   #4
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I would first try turning off the frig at the front controls. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so then turn it back on. The coil would be cool by then so it would pretty much have to be the "klixon" switch if the fan immediately started.
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Old 11-19-2019, 01:13 PM   #5
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Good advise from everyone. Now if Mudfrogs t-stat test proves that it's OK then you should check why the coils are overheating. Direct sun on that side? Improper airflow? Check for loose insulation or foreign matter blocking vents. And yes to your question about high humidity as it does relate to heating and cooling.
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Old 11-19-2019, 02:15 PM   #6
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Those thermo discs aren’t the most accurate devices in my opinion. I had a few problems with too high or low settings. I removed mine and replaced it with a remote bulb thermostat from the heating and cooling industry and no more problems with temperature control.
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Old 11-19-2019, 02:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reacher View Post
Good advise from everyone. Now if Mudfrogs t-stat test proves that it's OK then you should check why the coils are overheating. Direct sun on that side? Improper airflow? Check for loose insulation or foreign matter blocking vents. And yes to your question about high humidity as it does relate to heating and cooling.

Depends on HOW the the 12V to fan is wired
Some come directly off the terminal block with an in-line fuse which would NOT be affected by turning fridge off

Others come from circuit board which MIGHT be affected by turning fridge off.


Condenser HOT enough to cause Fan t-stat to close.......probably NOT in the ambient temp range OP posted.


T-stat FAILED...quite possible
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Old 11-19-2019, 04:21 PM   #8
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The tstat typically fails in the open condition rather than closed, but anything is possible.



A degraded cooling unit is perhaps a stronger possibility than that simple bi-metallic tstat. It doesn't take much loss of cooling capacity for those condensor fins to stay hot all the time.
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Old 11-19-2019, 05:00 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Depends on HOW the the 12V to fan is wired
Some come directly off the terminal block with an in-line fuse which would NOT be affected by turning fridge off


Others come from circuit board which MIGHT be affected by turning fridge off.


Condenser HOT enough to cause Fan t-stat to close.......probably NOT in the ambient temp range OP posted.


T-stat FAILED...quite possible
This could be the case with the OP's frig but I'm sure he'd notice if the fan kept running. If so, then he'd need to remove 12 volt power from that circuit, let everything cool, then try the restart.

Of course you'd still get an idea whether the switch was working even if the fan did stay running. The cooling process would be stopped and the switch should open after the coil cooled.
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