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Old 08-30-2019, 01:24 PM   #1
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Norcold fridge 50 degrees

Never had an issue out of this fridge
I always turn it on 2 days before a trip and run the gen until arriving
I have a 2003 fleetwood discovery with a double door norcold fridge

I have it set to coldest (9) and itís usually cold enough to almost freeze the OJ.
I noticed it was only mildly cold thermometer reading 50 degrees 🙈
It ďfeelsĒ sort of cold but something isnít right
I tried running off LP which is never an issue same result .
Googled a little bit and unplugged the thermostat which made the light turn off also seemed no change
I notice a very little frost on the fins not much
Removed outside cover and not sure what Iím looking at.

Any suggestions ?

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Old 08-30-2019, 01:41 PM   #2
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You already have an "Amish" cooling unit from Pines Refrigeration so it has been changed out at some point. You might check around inside the burner are for any yellow powder which would indicate a leak since you seem to have an excessive amount of rust on the tubes. When you remove the thermistor it puts the unit into failsafe mode but it may take a while to cool down. Usually, poor cooling is a sign of bad air flow across the condenser coils on the back. Check make sure your two fans are running and you might put a fan at the bottom blowing up to increase air flow. Hopefully, Old Biscuit (the Norcold Guru) can chime in with more help.
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Old 08-30-2019, 02:01 PM   #3
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What LT Dan stated^^^^^^


Airflow is crictical for cooling especially the food compartment
It is the LAST section that heat is removed from PROVIDED enough ammonia vapor has been condensed into cold ammonia liquid

Freezer gets its heat absorbed 1st.........then the food compartment if there is heat absorption capacity left over after freezer


So first thing...FANS
Are they running?
Controlled by t-stat attached to Condenser Fin (top of fridge)...turns Fans ON at 130*F/Off at 115*F based on Condenser FIN Temp

Bad t-stat....no fans......lack of airflow across backside of fridge

Next.....insulation
If fallen down/obstructing draft.......airflow disrupted
Same with Top vent being obstructed by debris/nests etc

Then issue could be bad thermistor (temp probe on fin in food compartment)
WHen unplugged fridge goes into continuous cooling mode
Food compartment should get down to mid 30s easily
Not getting cold

THen could be circuit board issue
OR
Cooling Unit has internal obstruction/blockage between freezer & food compartment evap coils so freezer gets cold but food compartment doesn't


With thermistor unplugged and food compartment NOT getting cold time to 'force cool' to see IF cooling unit is cabable of properly functioning


To 'Force Cool'
Unplug the AC heater Leads from lower circuit board
Plug those leads (using jumper wires) directly into the 120V AC fridge outlet
Elements will be energized continuously bypassing ALL Controls
Run fridge 12hrs minimum with elements wired directly
After 12hrs IF cooling unit is cabable the food comaprment temps WILL drop into the 30s-------if NOT cooling unit is DEAD


Post back......good luck
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:17 PM   #4
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I will try the straight wire method
One thing to note , Iíve never heard fans since Iíve had the rv, i donít ďseeĒ any fans (not sure where they would be)
I put a bag of into the freezer and itís srill frozen solid
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRUSH311 View Post
I will try the straight wire method
One thing to note , I’ve never heard fans since I’ve had the rv, i don’t “see” any fans (not sure where they would be)
I put a bag of into the freezer and it’s srill frozen solid

Fans would be center line middle area just above the absorber tubes (large slanted tubing)


IF Model 1200....would have fans
If Model N6/N8.....may or may not have fans


Which model is yours???
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:27 PM   #6
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I need to be sure I am doing the straight wiring correctly , there are 2 cords a white and a black
2 outlets in the compartment
The black seems to power the board
Not sure what the white one does hard to tell
What exactly am I moving /jumping ?

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Old 08-30-2019, 03:29 PM   #7
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I see a tag on the white one that says ďice maker onlyĒ
Which I never use
Not sure if thatís accurate or not
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:37 PM   #8
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Model number 1200LRIM
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:37 PM   #9
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AC Heater Element leads are plugged into the loser circuit board
Have to unplug them from board and then plug directly into the 120V AC outlet


Black power cord......fridge AC Power
White power cord.......fridge Ice Maker AC Power (which could be from inverter)




WHAT MODEL OF FRIDGE do you have?
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:43 PM   #10
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1200LRIM according to sticker inside
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Old 08-30-2019, 03:52 PM   #11
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Double checking , are these the 2 wires I disconnect and ďjumperĒ into the ac outlet ?
One of them has a small piggyback wire

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Old 08-30-2019, 04:02 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by JRUSH311 View Post
1200LRIM according to sticker inside

SHould have 2 fans just above those slanted tubes (which should be warm when heat source is ON--electric or propane)


See Fig 15 pg 19


Wiring diagram
See pg. 31


http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...rts-Manual.pdf
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Old 08-30-2019, 04:34 PM   #13
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Thermister plugged back in
Fridge straight wired and running
Now we wait

So if itís not colder in 12 hours what does it mean
And if it IS colder in 12 hours what does that mean
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Old 08-30-2019, 04:34 PM   #14
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Also i looked up those coils far as I could see with a light, if there are fans i sure canít see em
They are way up there out of reach if they are there
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