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Old 08-02-2014, 10:04 AM   #29
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Oh No! Now you've done it!

The Norcold post cops will be here shortly stating that it now only took 26 posts before someone alluded to the NotSoCold catching on fire.

Plus you will be forever attached to the "fear mongering" group for life.



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Hey Richard - Sorry if my good natured meant comment, bugged you!

And I am not a fan of Norcold. I've commented before, that I felt both Norcol and Workhorse were two companies that put $$ in front of peoples safety. (These Norcolds can, and do still today, catch fire - fact. Workhorse had a known problem with brakes, and kept pointing at first operator error, and then at Bosh. Workhorse built the chassis, they're responsible for getting the safety recall going ASAP. And then working with whomever the sub supplier was on who pays for what.) IMO, they both were not doing the right thing, as peoples lives were at risk.

And yes, I resemble the now just under $2K in items I've done to the Norcold to make it work well for me, and added safety of the SS-30. (I have the new ARB board at home, and will install that when we return from this trip.)

That being said, even though I prefer to retain LP capability. I did beef up my battery bank (800AH of Lifelines) and Solar Panels (1200W of 48V panels) to allow for swapping over to the Samsung if anything else major goes out on this Norcold. I'll add a secondary smaller inverter, dedicated to the fridge, if I go that route.

My main reason for teasing you, and the other gent, is that this post was from someone trying to solve a problem with his current Norcold. It was not about the pro's and con's of swapping over to residential fridge.

Again, sorry if poked you the wrong way on this.

And to anyone else reading this thread in the future. If you have a Norcold unit that is involved with these problems - DO GET THEM UP TODATE on recalls. (Or if you wish to retain LP too, go ahead and swap the cooling unit to the Amish unit, and add a few extra fans and the ARB board. Yeah, a bit under $2K, and yeah you could go to a Samsung or other for about that cost too. But key thing here - BE SURE YOUR UNIT IS SAFE!

Best to all,
Smitty
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:53 AM   #30
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There is a term I use a lot and have used it in many shops over the years that term is LBT LBT is Lowest Bidder Tech. Because it really does not matter much what you buy most of the components will be provided by the lowest bidder.

For any fridge to work it must transfer heat period it first creates heat then uses the coils and plumbing to remove the heat and take product temp away with it. In your roof A/C household fridge and other system they use a high pressure high temp liquid and spray it thru a orifice to create a pressure drop allowing the liquid to return to a gas and absorb heat in the process. In a absorption fridge like Norcold Dometic and Serval they use a boiler to begin the process.

A long time friend of mine in TX pointed out many times to people your house falls apart sitting still how would it fair on the highway? I was asked to give a lecture on RV's several years ago at a rally my boss failed to ask me what I planned on saying. The look on his face when I told the crowd that most of their problems were because they were cheap was priceless. However we are all cheap in the aspect that we want the most for our money nothing wrong with that the problem lies when we are more swayed by shiny gadgets than quality products.

OK back to the subject Norcold has worked on several recalls for the fire issue and to my knowledge has never charged a customer for any of them and I have done recalls on really old units some that have already had several recalls done on them. I have seen many old recalls that were installed wrong. However what I see most in problem units is poor install from the factory not right to begin with and never fixed. The result is a fridge that never cools well and stays way too hot in the boiler to make up for it. The added heat means added pressure in the system and increased chances of leaks or other issues. I have added baffles to hundreds of them over the years because you have to force the air thru the coils or it will not work. Once you get proper air flow in the coils they all work much better. On many units I have to pull the fridge and build new baffles in the rear often the customer does not wish to pay for this and refuses the work that however is not my fault nor is it the fault of Norcold or Dometic but if you want the thing to work it needs to be done. Otherwise you spend a ton on bandaids and complain about the junk LOL.

Many of the issues I have seen over the years comes down to this the guys and girls who take regular care of their stuff have less problems. If I had a dollar for every time I have had a customer complain about his batteries being junk and finding them totally dry because they never checked them or added water I would be retired living in a mansion LOL.
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Old 08-02-2014, 12:01 PM   #31
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Hey Richard - Sorry if my good natured meant comment, bugged you!

And to anyone else reading this thread in the future. If you have a Norcold unit that is involved with these problems - DO GET THEM UP TO DATE on recalls. (Or if you wish to retain LP too, go ahead and swap the cooling unit to the Amish unit, and add a few extra fans and the ARB board. Yeah, a bit under $2K, and yeah you could go to a Samsung or other for about that cost too. But key thing here - BE SURE YOUR UNIT IS SAFE!

Best to all,
Smitty
Smitty,

First off, I am sorry if you took my response as being aimed specifically at you. It was NOT. Otherwise I would have addressed you personally.

It was aimed at everyone who happens to be reading this specific thread.

What disturbs me more than anything is the number of people who ask the same questions that have been asked THOUSANDS of times previously as if it had never been asked before and they are the very FIRST ones having this problem.

I guess I must be from a different mold and beat to a different drum because when I have a new problem, I perform a through research on the Internet FIRST to see what I can gleam from other peoples experiences BEFORE posting my problem. The Internet has a gazillion amount of information and truthfully has made the biggest impact on improving the quality of my life technically.

I have learned a significant amount of additional information as a result of my Internet research because of the extraneous stuff that pops up on my search screens.

You have brought up some very important information in your post in the last paragraph which I have highlighted above in RED. Hopefully, people will read it, comprehend it, and then take action upon it.

BTW, my nickname was Smitty back in my younger years and in fact one of my close friends still calls me Smitty.

Finally, I apologize to you personally for me not being more specific who I was addressing in my post, it certainly was not you.

Safe travels to all,

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 08-02-2014, 02:46 PM   #32
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Dr4Film: I'm truly sorry for cluttering up "your" forum with a "useless" question. From now on, I will PM you and ask permission to add a topic from now on And just for the record, I DID do a search and really didn't find anything that was specific to my problem; which was working on AC but not in LP!!!

Now to all those that have replied with the intent on helping me or anyone else reading this, I sincerely thank you. I really appreciate it.

We have now been in 90+ degree heat for about 3 days. The unit has been on AC the whole time now and seems to be cooling not too badly. It struggles when we open the door too often but that's to be expected. (My wife and kids are used to opening the door and taking forever to decide what they wanna eat!!) I honestly don't have an unreal expectation. I know how RV fridges work and I know they struggle in the heat. It was simply that it wasn't working on LP so I asked the question. However I'm wondering if I just didn't wait long enough. At any rate, it does seem to be working and my ice cream is actually fairly hard My concern is what wil happen when I switch it over LP when it's time to go home tomorrow? Will it work? Or will I arrive home after a 5 hour drive to a puddle if ice cream in my freezer? Lol. I'm hoping it's gonna work.

I think Sammie asked me if it's working like it normally does. My answer to that question is: "I THINK so...I'm really not sure". I seem to remember it cooking quicker on LP than it did....BUT it was 90 outside when I turned it on and 99+inside the coach. So I know it had an uphill battle.
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Old 08-02-2014, 03:08 PM   #33
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Try that with ANY of the absorption fridges! You may have cool beverages in 3-4 days if your are lucky but they will never be cold.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
The Dometic (with a Dinosaur board) in my Lexington would freeze sodas and beer in the vegetable keeper, as well as everything else in the frige, by the next morning from start-up, if set any higher than 2.
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Old 08-02-2014, 03:15 PM   #34
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The Dometic (with a Dinosaur board) in my Lexington would freeze sodas and beer in the vegetable keeper, as well as everything else in the frige, by the next morning from start-up, if set any higher than 2.
My parents have a dometic in their motorhome. It works flawless. I wish I had a dometic.
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Old 08-02-2014, 03:18 PM   #35
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We have a 2005 Winnebago Journey with a 4 door Norcold fridge. I switched it to LP to get it cold for my wife to load it with food. 3 hours later, it's still warm and the metal fins inside the fridge at the back aren't cold at all. The freezer seems to be working properly though. I can hear the burner is on.

So we left for our trip anyway, with no food. We got to our destination and I put the fridge on AC. It's seems to be working(as well as it normally does which isn't all that good). Anyway, does anyone know what is wrong with the fridge? I checked, and I do have nearly 1/2 a tank of propane...so that's not the problem.
lets try to answer your question, works on AC but not LP?
If the lp burner is partially plugged then the chimny and boiler will not get enough heat to boil the water/amonia mix.
The ac heaters, yup two of them are mounted furthur up the boiler and a partial blockage in the boiler section could repeat "could" cause this. The clogs are a common problem with the Norcold 1200 series as the heat exchanger at the rear of the ref is not big enough and low airflow could cause an overheat. The overheat causes the corrosion inhibitors in the cooling coils to crystallize causing a plug or partial plug. Peal back some of the insulation just above the burner and see if there is a lot of rust, if so this could be as a result of overheating. Look in the bottom of the burner shroud (the sheet metal sqare box with the window to see the flame), if you see a bunch of rusty metal chips this is a definate sign of an overheated cooling unit.
My norcold 1200 had all these signs and I installed an amish cooling unit. the amish unit lasted one year so now I have a Samsung and love it. If your cooling unit is in need of changing might I suggest a res ref? about the same cost. And a coach as fine as yours deserves it
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Old 08-02-2014, 03:29 PM   #36
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lets try to answer your question, works on AC but not LP?
If the lp burner is partially plugged then the chimny and boiler will not get enough heat to boil the water/amonia mix.
The ac heaters, yup two of them are mounted furthur up the boiler and a partial blockage in the boiler section could repeat "could" cause this. The clogs are a common problem with the Norcold 1200 series as the heat exchanger at the rear of the ref is not big enough and low airflow could cause an overheat. The overheat causes the corrosion inhibitors in the cooling coils to crystallize causing a plug or partial plug. Peal back some of the insulation just above the burner and see if there is a lot of rust, if so this could be as a result of overheating. Look in the bottom of the burner shroud (the sheet metal sqare box with the window to see the flame), if you see a bunch of rusty metal chips this is a definate sign of an overheated cooling unit.
My norcold 1200 had all these signs and I installed an amish cooling unit. the amish unit lasted one year so now I have a Samsung and love it. If your cooling unit is in need of changing might I suggest a res ref? about the same cost. And a coach as fine as yours deserves it
All good suggestions!! Thankyou, I'll look into it. I've thought if the residential ref. I not sure I have room for it. There is a speaker and a fuse panel mounted in a panel below the fridge. It would have to be mounted on a shelf it have the speaker and fuse panel relocated.
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:05 PM   #37
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And just for the record, I DID do a search and really didn't find anything that was specific to my problem; which was working on AC but not in LP!!!
First off there is no distinction between the Norcold brand and the Dometic brand when it comes to cooling. They both work on the same principle.

However, there is a BIG difference between the quality of the workmanship and materials used to build each of them.

I did a quick 1 minute search for you to give you just a little reading for you this weekend.

Here are a "few" that you can review.

Fridge not cooling on LP

Norcold fridge not cooling on LP

Help! Fridge won't get cold :(

Norcold Freezer Works but not Fridge!

Fridge not cold enough

Dometic refrigerator not cooling properly

Another Dometic freezer working, fridge not...

Freezer freezes but fridge don't get cool

Norcold - Freezer works but fridge doesn't - HELP!

Fridge won't cool!!

Dometic NDR 1062 Not Cold Enough Issue

Refrigerator Not Cooling

Norcold not cooling lower fridge

Refrigerator/freezer doesn't stay cold

RV fridge temp change?

Norcold not cold

Dometic Refrigerator problem

norcold not cold

Norcold Not or Almost Not Cold

And when you have finished with those here are a couple more that aren't related to your "specific" problem but may shed some additional light on the Norcold subject including one person who complained because his Norcold was TOO cold!

Refrigerator secrets unleashed

Norcold too cold?




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Old 08-02-2014, 09:59 PM   #38
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1mainiac ; Dr4Film

I've wanted to say these things many times...I decided to stay quiet.
Kudos for you gutsy gentlemen for saying what needed to be said.

I agree battery charging and refers are the largest percentage of questions asked...and ALL POSSIBLE scenarios & solutions already exist in the archives.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:48 AM   #39
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I would take the issue of the absorption lp operation as a warning and get that out ASAP. Take your tape measure and go to a Samsung dealer store and find a replacement. Your coach is far more valuable than what the insurance company will pay when, not if, it catches fire.
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:05 AM   #40
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Geeze, When is the bickering going to end. I'm quite sure that the Samsung is a fantastic alternative for the Norcold refrigerator for those folks who have the resources to do the swap, but there are many of us with limited resources who would just sincerely appreciate an answer to a simple question about how to solve a problem they are having. I have appreciated the help given to me when I have posted a question and in return received so many quick answers from good people just trying their best to help someone in need of their expertise.
Sorry for rambling on but I just felt the need to get this off my chest. I am not an expert on the Norcold refer, but have had mine out in order to do the Amish Cooling Unit conversion and was able to learn by my mistakes and from others with similar experiences, so I for one am willing to try to shed some light on problems that other good folks here might be having.

Nuff Said,
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:13 AM   #41
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Ok I hear you...but the fins weren't even cold to the touch after 2 hours on LP. However the freezer was cold.

So you guys think there's really nothing wrong with it, it's just being a normal Norcold? I will say that at our destination it's 95 degrees. So the fridge does have an uphill battle
Totally normal and one of the major problems of owning a NOcold. It didn't come by that name from working perfect.

Mine would take overnight to start to cool in the refer compartment.
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Old 08-03-2014, 10:40 AM   #42
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My Norcold does work perfectly. To each is own, eh?
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