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Old 08-03-2014, 11:09 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Sammie View Post
Geeze, When is the bickering going to end. I'm quite sure that the Samsung is a fantastic alternative for the Norcold refrigerator for those folks who have the resources to do the swap, but there are many of us with limited resources who would just sincerely appreciate an answer to a simple question about how to solve a problem they are having. I have appreciated the help given to me when I have posted a question and in return received so many quick answers from good people just trying their best to help someone in need of their expertise.
Sorry for rambling on but I just felt the need to get this off my chest. I am not an expert on the Norcold refer, but have had mine out in order to do the Amish Cooling Unit conversion and was able to learn by my mistakes and from others with similar experiences, so I for one am willing to try to shed some light on problems that other good folks here might be having.

Nuff Said,
Sammie
I'm like you in that the constant "drum thumping" on the purported dangers of some NoCold and Dometic fridges by some individuals gets old. It's one thing to ensure that folks with certain models of these fridges are made aware of the possible dangers but they need to ease up on trying to make everyone think they absolutely have to replace it with this or that or you might perish. Present the facts as you "know" them and let it be. Most of us are intelligent enough to weigh our options and make our own decisions. Like it or not, finances will sometimes be just one of many important factors when people make a decision on what to do. Examples: The Spartan MM chassis on my rig can be prone to having defective boots on the front ball joints causing excessive wear but I chose to have them fixed and not trade my rig for another brand. I believe Hurricane mh's have windshield popping out issues so do you automatically get rid if it; Some Winnie mh's have front windshield frame rust issues; Some of Monaco's mh's with the (4) air bag system had trailing arm issues. For those who repeatedly preach about the dangers of some of these fridges, we appreciate your knowledge/experience with this issue but calm down and try to gear your future posts to answering the posters question.
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Old 08-03-2014, 11:28 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by JC2 View Post
I'm like you in that the constant "drum thumping" on the purported dangers of some NoCold and Dometic fridges by some individuals gets old. It's one thing to ensure that folks with certain models of these fridges are made aware of the possible dangers but they need to ease up on trying to make everyone think they absolutely have to replace it with this or that or you might perish. Present the facts as you "know" them and let it be. Most of us are intelligent enough to weigh our options and make our own decisions. Like it or not, finances will sometimes be just one of many important factors when people make a decision on what to do. Examples: The Spartan MM chassis on my rig can be prone to having defective boots on the front ball joints causing excessive wear but I chose to have them fixed and not trade my rig for another brand. I believe Hurricane mh's have windshield popping out issues so do you automatically get rid if it; Some Winnie mh's have front windshield frame rust issues; Some of Monaco's mh's with the (4) air bag system had trailing arm issues. For those who repeatedly preach about the dangers of some of these fridges, we appreciate your knowledge/experience with this issue but calm down and try to gear your future posts to answering the posters question.

Most Elegantly Said!!!

Sammie,
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:33 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by JC2 View Post
I'm like you in that the constant "drum thumping" on the purported dangers of some NoCold and Dometic fridges by some individuals gets old. It's one thing to ensure that folks with certain models of these fridges are made aware of the possible dangers but they need to ease up on trying to make everyone think they absolutely have to replace it with this or that or you might perish. Present the facts as you "know" them and let it be. Most of us are intelligent enough to weigh our options and make our own decisions. Like it or not, finances will sometimes be just one of many important factors when people make a decision on what to do. Examples: The Spartan MM chassis on my rig can be prone to having defective boots on the front ball joints causing excessive wear but I chose to have them fixed and not trade my rig for another brand. I believe Hurricane mh's have windshield popping out issues so do you automatically get rid if it; Some Winnie mh's have front windshield frame rust issues; Some of Monaco's mh's with the (4) air bag system had trailing arm issues. For those who repeatedly preach about the dangers of some of these fridges, we appreciate your knowledge/experience with this issue but calm down and try to gear your future posts to answering the posters question.
Nicely said and I can assure you there are nearly no RV's built that I can't walk thru and point out junk and bad designs on. In over 15 years I have only seen a couple units leave and not be back for a list of repairs often minor or cosmetic but issues just the same. Other than a customer totaling out his new 5th wheel on the way home the ones that don't come back are shipped so far away we don't see them again.

As to the low or no heat on LP issue there is a baffle in the flue that must be in good shape and in the proper position to keep the heat in the boiler area.The burner must be clean the orifice must be clean LP pressure must be correct and the unit has to be properly charges with good airflow over the rear coils. If there is more than 1 in between the rear coils and the wall or solid baffle it is installed wrong. If it is in a slide out the baffle must extend to the top set of coils or they receive little to no air flow. Most places hire parts changers not tech's. Here are some baffle and installation drawings. This is for a slide out install with no roof vent.
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:38 PM   #46
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here are a couple of roof mount baffle options. If yours does not have the baffles odds are it is why it does not preform as well as it could.
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:45 PM   #47
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Those are Norcold drawings from the 1200 installation manual. Dometic has similar drawings I could post them as well but why the rules are the same you must get proper airflow for it to work. Poor airflow equals reduced efficiency which means longer cooling time more heat in the boiler and higher pressure in the system to try and cool. No different than blocking off half the radiator in your car.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:26 AM   #48
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Try this also.

Check to be sure there is not cob-webbing, nests, or other debris in the "flu" area in back of the frig. This is possible with light and a mirror, or by removing the vent cover on the roof. Try blowing compressed air upward from the access area, or if there is some obstruction, fish it out from above.

Worth a look just to be sure you have covered all the bases.

Don
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:26 PM   #49
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I give the fridge a minimum of 24 hours two cool down for food.
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:30 PM   #50
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I, as well, have a similar issue with my Norcold 1200LRIM. It gets satisfactorily cold on A/C, but less so on propane. I've had the "burner box" off and watched the flame burning, and it seemed to be as it should - all the slots had a nice clean blue flame. Now, someone mentioned the flue might be obstructed, and for this I thank you, for I never thought of it. My Norcold apparently has fans, for I heard them running once. But unless I remove the fridge or remove the roof vent, I'll never know for sure what makes them run. Another thing I've observed through the inspection hatch on the side of the RV, is the lack of baffles. Methinks my fridge is going to have to come out of its hidey-hole.
Thanks for the "heads-up", guys.
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Old 08-05-2014, 07:42 AM   #51
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My Norcold apparently has fans, for I heard them running once. But unless I remove the fridge or remove the roof vent, I'll never know for sure what makes them run. Another thing I've observed through the inspection hatch on the side of the RV, is the lack of baffles.
There are two "pancake" fans connected to the coils in the back. They are controlled by a thermostat toward the top. All they are is PC fans. It is possible for one to quit so you still have the other running and can hear it. They do not make much noise. Both of ours quit at one point. A small 12V automobile "clamp fan" stuck in the access door worked until we could make a permanent repair.

By baffles do you mean there are no vents in the side access door behind the fridge? I was under the impression that there should be top and side vents to create and air flow to vent the heat out the top.
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:15 AM   #52
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I was meaning by baffles a form of "guide" close to the coils to channel the air flow to the top. My fridge doesn't have any. The only one time I heard the fans run, they weren't very quiet. I don't mean noisy like bad bearings, but more like very high speed fans - not like computer muffin fans.
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:45 AM   #53
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Absorption fridges are designed to be zero clearance meaning the sides top and bottom need to fit tight to the walls. the rear is supposed to also be near zero clearance with a vent at the bottom and top to allow air flow thru the coils. If there is space behind the coils it needs to have a baffle installed to force the air thru the coils like the drawings I posted. Just like your radiator is baffled and ducted so all the air goes thru it not around it you need the air to go thru the coils or the fridge won't work very well.
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Old 08-06-2014, 02:43 PM   #54
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norcold frig

i have a 2008 bounder 35e with a double door frig and i have to keep it on 9 in hot weather to keep it below 40.I have read lots of articles from people that have the same problem.
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