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Old 04-28-2017, 03:12 PM   #1
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Norcold fridge won't do AC recepticle cooling

Summer preparations revealed a weird Norcold behavior. The fridge works fine on LP, but when trying to manually use the AC power setting while connected to wayside power, Norcold panel reports No AC. The RV power console clicks and interrupts all appliance connections while timing out to try again.

The RV power console will not restore as long as the fridge is manually set to AC and goes into the same timed interrupt.

If we run an extension cord from wayside power outside to the back of the fridge, the fridge and RV appliances both works fine.

Anyone have this happen???

We are brain dead trying to figure this one out.
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:26 PM   #2
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Have you checked the voltage to the frig. receptacle? Circuit breakers do go bad and it may not be allowing full voltage or perhaps the receptacle ground may have dropped. If the refrigerator works on power from outside with an extension cord, the problem is obviously in the motor home. Look for loose wires in the breaker panel (hot attached to the breaker, neutral white attached to bar inside the panel, or the bare ground wire also attached to a bar inside the panel) or at the receptacle, but make sure you are unplugged before attempting.
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:48 PM   #3
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I had exactly the same problem the year before last. I checked the receptacle with a volt meter using the probes on the meter and had voltage present but no voltage at the fridge. I suspected a broken wire between the plug and the fridge but a check with an ohm meter ruled that out. I was scratching my head then I got an idea. I brought my wife's hair dryer out and plugged it into the receptacle for the fridge. It would not turn on. I removed the receptacle and wired in a female plug, plugged the fridge in and it worked fine.
Apparently the inside of the original receptacle was either corroded or the blades were warped somewhat not contacting the male plug for the fridge.
Lynn
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Old 04-28-2017, 07:05 PM   #4
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I can plug my coach into a GFCI plug without a problem until I turn the frig on and then it will kick the GFCI. I can run a separate cord from a none GFCI and it will run fine. I did check the ohms on the heaters and they were good. I think it has something to do with the defrost heaters, not for sure but since I figured a work around.

The next work around will be installing a residential refrigerator.
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Old 04-29-2017, 09:10 AM   #5
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Only 36V at the fridge outlet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MDPD View Post
Have you checked the voltage to the frig. receptacle? Circuit breakers do go bad and it may not be allowing full voltage or perhaps the receptacle ground may have dropped. If the refrigerator works on power from outside with an extension cord, the problem is obviously in the motor home. Look for loose wires in the breaker panel (hot attached to the breaker, neutral white attached to bar inside the panel, or the bare ground wire also attached to a bar inside the panel) or at the receptacle, but make sure you are unplugged before attempting.

We tested the fridge outlet and showed only 36V in both plugs. Hmmmm.
Pulled the breaker panel open and checked the breaker which seemed to control the general purpose stuff because that seemed to kill that outlet. Breaker shows 110V coming out.

Took the fridge outlet off opened and tested wires they showed 36V with between the White n Black and also between Black and GRD. Hmmm.

Here is the thing. The fridge supply to this outlet has yellow jacket insulation. The 15A breaker panel general purpose has white insulation. In fact all the panel insulation is white. In the six feet from panel to fridge outlet there must be a junction to test from that we haven't found yet. This might be the problem??

Well after a refreshing beverage with ice, went beck to panel and checked each breaker. The very next one was the 20A and it showed 36V output on the nose. The bad breaker is the problem and must be replaced.

We are hoping it is a standard house hold breaker we can locate easily.
Thank you all for the suggestions. They were right on accurate diagnosing. While were are at it we must replace the cheesy knife blade fridge outlet which was cracked in half on factory installation.
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:10 AM   #6
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Pull the breaker out and check the terminals in the box as well as the breaker for any signs of corrosion. Reinstall the breaker and switch it from off to on several times then recheck the voltage. If the voltage is still at 36 V. find a new breaker and be done with it.
You are on the right track with your new "Best Friend" the voltmeter.
Lynn
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LETMGROW View Post
Pull the breaker out and check the terminals in the box as well as the breaker for any signs of corrosion. Reinstall the breaker and switch it from off to on several times then recheck the voltage. If the voltage is still at 36 V. find a new breaker and be done with it.
You are on the right track with your new "Best Friend" the voltmeter.
Lynn

Thanks to you and MDPD for steering us blind to the culprit breaker. It turns out to be a standard 20A Murray. We had a spare one in our parts locker that fit and did the trick. That saved us the $5 purchase.

The culprit was labeled Washer/Dryer on the service panel. Go figure.

Went to Home Depot anyways and picked up a half depth heavy duty grey plastic outlet box to replace the fridge's cheesy factory one.

Mounted it tight. Tested for shorts. Plugged in fridge. Works fine now. Electric and gas.

Who know what that would have cost to repair on the road.

Running out of stuff to fix, but you know what? Feels good. Beverages are cold now. Gotta go.

Thanks all.
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:55 PM   #8
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Washer, dryer. That's close. LOL
It might be a good idea to go through ALL the breakers and find out now which circuits they control just in case you ever have a problem in the future. Label each one.
And, you said you were running out of things to do.
Get bored and I'll send you a list of to-do's.
Lynn
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