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Old 03-19-2016, 01:14 PM   #1
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Norcold works on LP but not AC

I checked the breaker and ok. Any thoughts as to what to check next or possible remedy?
Thanks...parked in Florida so need frig
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Old 03-19-2016, 02:23 PM   #2
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Service Documents and Manuals

you can download the secret book of norcold
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Old 03-19-2016, 02:36 PM   #3
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Not cooling on AC........

Is outlet fridge power cord plugs into HOT??
If NO..find which 120V AC circuit breaker is tripped or which upstream GFCI outlet is tripped

If YES..outlet Hot
Then remove cover on control module and check if the 5A glass fuse is blown.
Blown..then AC Heat Element has probably shorted. Replace BOTH
5A fuse not blown....unplug AC Heat Element leads from board and plug them into a hot AC outlet. This will bypass fridge controls and do 2 things
1) See if fridge cools down on AC Element ---if not element is bad replace
2) If fridge does cool down on AC element then circuit board is bad (AC circuit shorted/broken etc)
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Old 03-19-2016, 02:57 PM   #4
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First thing to check is the electric heating element, it can go bad and not blow the glass fuse. If the stack isn't hot then start working backwards.
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Not cooling on AC........

Is outlet fridge power cord plugs into HOT??
If NO..find which 120V AC circuit breaker is tripped or which upstream GFCI outlet is tripped

If YES..outlet Hot
Then remove cover on control module and check if the 5A glass fuse is blown.
Blown..then AC Heat Element has probably shorted. Replace BOTH
5A fuse not blown....unplug AC Heat Element leads from board and plug them into a hot AC outlet. This will bypass fridge controls and do 2 things
1) See if fridge cools down on AC Element ---if not element is bad replace
2) If fridge does cool down on AC element then circuit board is bad (AC circuit shorted/broken etc)

Logical advice!
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:25 PM   #6
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All good suggestions

If it is an easy fix, OK, but if it runs into a significant cost (to you) I would decide whether it's worth the cost of repair. We run our fridge on LP, almost exclusively. It will work on electricity,-after we cool it down with gas, it will blow a fuse if I run fridge on electric(after stored with fridge off)

Our plan is to run it until it quits.....then get a new one. Our fridge is 8 years old
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Old 03-19-2016, 03:28 PM   #7
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All good suggestions

If it is an easy fix, OK, but if it runs into a significant cost (to you) I would decide whether it's worth the cost of repair. We run our fridge on LP, almost exclusively. It will work on electricity,-after we cool it down with gas, it will blow a fuse if I turn on the fridge (when not cold)

Our plan is to run it until it quits.....then get a new one. Our fridge is 8 years old
Blows fuse on circuit board..then replace the element.
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:37 PM   #8
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Good Advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Not cooling on AC........

Is outlet fridge power cord plugs into HOT??
If NO..find which 120V AC circuit breaker is tripped or which upstream GFCI outlet is tripped

If YES..outlet Hot
Then remove cover on control module and check if the 5A glass fuse is blown.
Blown..then AC Heat Element has probably shorted. Replace BOTH
5A fuse not blown....unplug AC Heat Element leads from board and plug them into a hot AC outlet. This will bypass fridge controls and do 2 things
1) See if fridge cools down on AC Element ---if not element is bad replace
2) If fridge does cool down on AC element then circuit board is bad (AC circuit shorted/broken etc)

Great Advice!




Mine stopped working on AC last fall and I had it serviced in Sioux Falls, SD. They stated that the AC Heat Element was bad and that it was replaced. It worked for a while but after winterizing and taking it out this spring, it only works on LP. I have been on the road 3 weeks and this information will help me troubleshoot it to see if the AC Heat Element is bad (AGAIN). Thanks.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:53 PM   #9
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I had a similar problem with the Dometic fridge in my 96 Gulfstream last summer; after going thru the normal troubleshooting procedures it turned out to be a bad circuit board (very common in Dometic propane/AC refrigerators apparently). I ordered a replacement "Dinosaur Circuit Board" from PPL RV parts for $100, very simple installation and solved the problem with ours and still switches from AC/propane flawlessly. YMMV, good luck!
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:51 AM   #10
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This is fairly straight-forward to diagnose. The 120v power comes from your circuit breaker to an outlet behind the fridge, where the fridge plugs in. From there it flows to the fridge circuit board and a small glass cartridge fuse on the board and then out to the actual electric heater, located on the side of the fridge boiler tube. There is a relay on the circuit board that switches power to the heater on/off in response to the thermostat. So, the places to check are the breaker, the outlet, the fuse and the wires right at the heater.

Once you isolate where the power gets lost you can determine what needs to be replaced, e.g. fuse, circuit board, heater element, etc. The heater element is just a rod that is slipped into a metal tube, so easy enough to replace once you can get at it.
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:05 AM   #11
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Quote:

Not cooling on AC........

Is outlet fridge power cord plugs into HOT??
If NO..find which 120V AC circuit breaker is tripped or which upstream GFCI outlet is tripped

If YES..outlet Hot
Then remove cover on control module and check if the 5A glass fuse is blown.
Blown..then AC Heat Element has probably shorted. Replace BOTH
5A fuse not blown....unplug AC Heat Element leads from board and plug them into a hot AC outlet. This will bypass fridge controls and do 2 things
1) See if fridge cools down on AC Element ---if not element is bad replace
2) If fridge does cool down on AC element then circuit board is bad (AC circuit shorted/broken etc)
This is the BEST advice for trouble-shooting the NotSoCold fridge.

Good luck!

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 03-20-2016, 01:26 PM   #12
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I had the EXACT same problem on my Norcold 611 and it turned out being a defective heating element. It was an easy fix on mine.
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