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Old 12-05-2012, 09:00 PM   #15
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They were nice rigs and well built too. We looked at them around 1999-2000 before we ordered our first Dutch Star.
Decided to look elsewhere after the salesman told us they were too expensive for us without even finding out how much we made! Guess we didn't look well enough off, well, he was wrong!
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:02 PM   #16
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Overlands were pretty good rigs IMO

If its any help, my tank bays on my basement are heated

As for the bolts on the seat, you may be able to but a pry bar or flathead under the bolt head and pry up as you losen, it may hold the bolt on the bottom tight enough to take them out. I would figure they would have a acess of some kind or it be a capture nut. Only other thought its there is a "air space" between the floor and the top of the basement and the bolts were installed brfore the basement structure was finished
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:04 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjlunda View Post
My 1996 Mountainaire doesn't have heat ducts in the basement (that I know of) but it is insulated and gets some heat off the furnace duct. My tanks are contained in the basement so they stay warm. We have been in 20-25 degree nights without problems.

What does it have for engine?
If diesel, I would say around 9, If gas, 7-8
Both our 2000 and 2002 DSDP's have had heat into the wet bay. There was/is a switch in the wet bay to allow the blower to push heat into the wet bay when the furnace runs.
Not sure when they added that feature though.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:15 AM   #18
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Grzly03,

I agree with F239141. Probably air space between floor and basement. They build theses things in pieces and them put them together. Future modifications are not on their list of things to build for.

If yours is like mine (1998 Larado) the front right basement bay is under the spot your are working. There is a wire run at the top, inside a metal box running the length of the bay. Bolt heads might be in there. No idea on how to get in there.

You might need to climb under and see if there is access form the back side. I haven't been back/under/up there to look.

I have an issue with my Kwikee steps. Rear end bolts are loose. Turn the nut and the bolt turns. I took the steps apart a week before Thanksgiving. 2x4 framework, plywood subflooring and then a top board. I had to cut the subflooring out to get to the base.

Found the tops of the bolts and they are carraige bolts. The round-top bolts that you can't put a wrench on. Didn't have time to get them out, so I recovered and moved on. Planning to cut off and re-bolt them in the future, now that I know what I need.

Take your time and look for ANY way to access the bolt heads. You can do it.

Mike
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:32 AM   #19
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On the basement heat issue......

We live in ours full time. Last winter was COLD, but we got through it just fine. Use of the furnace is required to keep wet/dump bay warm.

Mine has a 2" hose off the furnace, that runs across the top of the wet bay to the dump access bay. I also have a thermostat contolled space heater setting in the access bay. We are supposed to have tank heaters, too, but I haven't confirmed.

We are connected to electric/water/sanitary. Tanks are used for liquid only - inside (garage/office) stool is used for solids. 3/4" water suppply hose and 3/4" sewer connection hose. Heat tape between the 2, zip-tied together and wrapped with foam pipe insulation. Planning to upgrade to a macerator for solids.

The basement area (tank bay included) stays pretty warm from heat off of the duct run. I haven't climbed in and looked for basement registers.

Mike
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:43 PM   #20
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I did end up cutting off the bolt heads to remove the original swivel post. Took me 2 hours, 8 Sawzall blades, a Dremel for grinding, and sore back, too. New chairs and couch from Discount RV and Truck in La Habra look great and are very comfortable. Heather and I are getting anxious to get on the road. Thanks again for advice. Grzly 03, Dick Nester in Temecula, CA.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:02 PM   #21
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AM/FM Antenna

OK, I'm a new guy, and I scraped off the AM/FM antenna on a tree on a Blvd in Temecula that isn't Class A friendly. I have looked around on the internet for a replacement and see a lot of choices from $15.59 to over $150. Seems like it should be a side mount, and I'd like a flexible, you know, just in case. Any recommendations?? Grzly 03, Temecula, CA.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:51 AM   #22
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Antenna

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Originally Posted by Grzly03 View Post
OK, I'm a new guy, and I scraped off the AM/FM antenna on a tree on a Blvd in Temecula that isn't Class A friendly. I have looked around on the internet for a replacement and see a lot of choices from $15.59 to over $150. Seems like it should be a side mount, and I'd like a flexible, you know, just in case. Any recommendations?? Grzly 03, Temecula, CA.
Mine has a spring on the base and it is roof mounted. Nothing but a straight 1 section antenna.
I assume you are talking about the antenna for the dash radio?
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:15 PM   #23
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Hello Odessa Community,
I recently purchased an 1997 Odessa Overland Lorado M-3741. I do not have any manuals and am hopeful that someone can point me in the right direction. General maintenance, fluid types, capacities and hopefully a wiring diagram would be greatly appreciated. So far, the only thing I have not been able to figure out is the ICC Flasher switch. The switch itself is missing and there are two wires with the ends carefully taped to keep them from shorting that appear to be for it. Does anyone know what kind of switch this is, and how it functions when you use it?
Thanks,
Joe
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:32 AM   #24
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Overland Manuals

Joe, My unit came with minimal manuals and I assumed they were missing but after a few years of searching and coming up with very little, I concluded that Overland did not supply a manual on the coach, just supplied manuals from the suppliers in loose form. Do you have the Engine Manual (mine is Cat), Freightliner Manual and Allison Transmission manuals? They are small manuals like you get with a car but have good information. Manuals on coach items like heaters, water heaters, generator etc you can find on line. You can get the electrical schematic drawing for the chasis from Freightliner (need to register at access freightliner) but it doesn't show routing. I had my front cap repainted at Mike's Custom paint in Bremen, Indiana this spring, they originally painted Overlands. I've had my coach for 4 years and have traveled about 30K, lots of little things to fix but nothing major. I recoated the roof with Liquid Rubber, it was expensive but I'm hopeful it will add at least a few years to the life of the roof.
My Overland came with the turn signal flasher attached to wires that go to the fuse box. It works so I never played with it. Not sure if this is the ICC flasher or just turn signals.
Good luck. Doug
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Old 09-18-2013, 03:44 PM   #25
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The ICC flasher switch is a momemtary (spring loaded) on/off switch. Normally on - push to turn off. It turns off all the running lights (except headlights) to "thank" someone for flashing their lights to let you back in. Like the nice truckers do.

As Doug stated, most manuals are from suppliers. Wiring diagrams for the coach are none existant.

Just remenber there are TWO electrical systems at work. 12v and 110v.
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:03 PM   #26
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Thanks Doug and Mike!
I have no manuals for the major components, just things like the awnings and microwave. Mine is the 8.3 Cummings, speed Allison, Freightliner chassis and I do not have any of these manuals. I will check with the manufacturers and see what is available. It will be easy to come up with a normally closed momentary switch and see what happens with the running lights. The list of little things to fix has been getting smaller every day and the next thing I would like to tackle is the sending units for the holding tanks. They "sort of" work, and I would like to locate them and see if there is anything I can do to make them work more accurately. It's very comforting finding folks with experience on the Odessa.
Thanks for the help!
Joe
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:26 AM   #27
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Holding Tanks Sensor

Joe, good luck with the holding tank sensors, mine kind of work, sometimes. I chose not to pursue the sensors since I heard at Good Sam Rally's they are not reliable. We mostly stay at campgrounds that have sewer hookup but some state parks do not. Since the fresh water tank is about the size of the holding tanks, I do not find the level switches to be necessary. One trick I learned at the rally is to put your dishwater down the toilet, assuming you use a dishpan in your sink. One caution, watch out for silverware. I was warned about this at the rally and still we have managed to dump 2 pieces into the toilet and I suspect they will never come out. So, make sure you pour dishwater into bowl, flush, pour more into bowl, flush and repeat till dishpan is empty. DO NOT POUR DISHPAN WITH BOWL OPEN, silverware hides in the bottom of the dishpan. Good luck. Doug
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Old 09-21-2013, 05:23 AM   #28
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Doug,
Thanks for the advise. I think this project will go onto the back burner..
Joe
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