Community Forums

SargeW · 04-11-2007, 04:38 AM

I am about to change the oil in my Cummins ISB for the first time this weekend. Other than having a really big drain pan, any other tips anyone might have? I know that the filter can be a real PITA to get off. What kind of filter wrench did you use? What about changing the fuel filters (2) at the same time? Were they hard to get to?

All advice gratefully accepted.........

Sarge

SargeW · 04-11-2007, 04:38 AM

I am about to change the oil in my Cummins ISB for the first time this weekend. Other than having a really big drain pan, any other tips anyone might have? I know that the filter can be a real PITA to get off. What kind of filter wrench did you use? What about changing the fuel filters (2) at the same time? Were they hard to get to?

All advice gratefully accepted.........

Sarge

FleetMan · 04-11-2007, 07:04 AM

Sarge,
Make sure you have a drain pan that can hold at least five gallons. I'd recommend a good strap wrench for the filter. If yours is configured like mine, there is very little room between the engine, filter and frame to get another kind of filter wrench in there. Also, have the engine warm before you attempt to loosen the filter. Break the filter loose, punch a hole in the bottom of it to drain the filter to make handling it a bit easier and less messy. Fill the new filter with fresh oil before you install it. That is a common fleet maintenance practice and it reduces the amount of time for the engine pump to fill the new filter.

Fuel filter: Your choice on changing it. Mine is in the open in the rear and is easy to get at.

On Edit: The other filter is up high on the frame rail. That one may be hard to get to from underneath using a creeper.

BigRedLancer · 04-12-2007, 09:06 AM

I used to drive a Dodge truck with a Cummins engine and I discovered a couple of things. First of all, I purchased an oil drain valve to put in place of the plug. This made oil changes a breeze. All I had to do was put a jug below the valve and drain the oil directly into the jug. You may want to get the one with a nipple to add a length of tubing. My engine held 12 quarts of oil. I also purchased a strap wrench, like the one available througt Amazon.com. Just type in "OIL FILTER STRAP WRENCH MP" on the main page and it will take you to it. The advantage to this wrench is you can put a long extension and a breaker bar to help loosen the oil filter without damaging the can. Just try to put the strap as close to the threads as possible. I used to have a gallon ziplock bag handy to slip up the filter as I took it off. Kept the spill in the bag.
As far as the fuel filter, the change interval for my engine was 15,000 miles. That worked out to every other oil change (7500 miles between changes). Check your owners manual for intervals based on your driving conditions, etc.

Good luck!

SteveS · 04-12-2007, 02:10 PM

Sarge,

As BigRed mentioned, when you change your oil, it is a good time to replace the drain plug with a Fumoto valve. It will make future changes easy and allows you to control the draining process if your container size is limited...you can turn it on and off at will without making a mess. It has a simple ball-**** valve. Draining is slower because of a smaller drain hole but still fast enough. Part number is F-104(N) and can be found at about any truck parts supplier. They cost about $28 but are worth every penny.

http://www.fumotovalve.com/

SargeW · 04-12-2007, 05:40 PM

Thanks Guys,
I have owned several previous Cummins as well. The first filter off change is always a real PITA. Must be put on at the factory by some gorilla. The strap wrench is a good idea. $350 to $400 for an oil change at the dealer is nuts..........

BigRedLancer · 04-12-2007, 07:10 PM

I was told that the factory oil filter is installed by a machine. The strap wrench is the ONLY way to break the first filter loose! I used to purchase my filters at Geno's Garage (on-line). They had a good deal on a filter bundle for oil and fuel. A lot of Cummins owners will not use anything but Fleetguard products. Fram filters are out of the question as they have been known to fall apart and the result is paper throughtout the engine. Not good!

chasfm11 · 04-13-2007, 04:40 AM

SargeW, I found a set of strap wrenches on sale at Sears for less than $10. The reason that I mention it is more than just the oil filter. If you haven't already, you might consider looking at the air cartridge for your air brakes. It took a long strap wrench for me to break that loose. The large one in the Sears kit does that job nicely.

I've been doing my own ISB oil changes now for some time and only spin the filter on a good "hand tight", with oil carefully wiped on the gasket surface beforehand. Even so, I've need my medium strap wrench to help turn the filter that first 1/4 turn once or twice.

SargeW · 04-13-2007, 06:37 AM

Thanks, that's a great idea on the set of strap wrenches. I used to get all my filters from Geno's as well. I thought the filter on the Cummins in the MH took a larger (longer) filter than my 04' dually did. I haven't had a chance to compare part numbers yet though.

Sarge

HarveyP · 04-13-2007, 06:51 PM

I bought one of Walmart's big oil change pans that has a small plug in the middle of it's catch pan. The idea is that you can put the plug in when you're done and carry the pan away to drain it. The problem was that oil came out of my engine faster than it could drain into the small hole on the pan. Now I use two big buckets. Learning is so much fun! Harvey

tmitchell · 04-14-2007, 06:14 AM

HarveyP,
I have 2 of the drain pans with the small hole in the top and I knew they wouldn't allow the old fluid to go through the little hole, fast enough. I went to an auto parts store and got 2 drain pans that look identical except for being yellow and they have no top. They are very easy to use. You can easily tell when it is time to swap to the other pan.
I bought a heavy duty nylon strap wrench from NAPA.
Tom

gMw · 04-18-2007, 03:00 PM

As already posted, Fumoto valve with nipple, to attach a hose is nice to have. I drain the oil into an old 5 gallon gas can, which I then cap and take to the recycle center without having to transfer the oil from a catch pan to a container. Now that I have a CAT, I'll have to go to a 6 gallon can...

I found Sears sells a filter wrench that grabs on from the bottom, is well made, and is driven by a 3/8 ratchet. It adjusts to almost any size filter. I've bent strap wrenches... Nice thing is if you have a diesel generator, this wrench makes it easy to remove the filter in that as well.

Also, either way be sure your coach is fairly level or have the rear slightly higher than the front. The oil filler tube doesn't have much of an angle to it. Don't ask me how I know.....

SargeW · 04-18-2007, 05:57 PM

Yeah, I changed the oil and filter last weekend, and I must say it wasn't bad at all. The biggest PITA was re-filling the 4 gallons of oil that came out. Just a little longer up tilted filler tube would have been great.

I also changed the fuel/oil seperator, witch was a lot harder to get off than the oil filter was. Once I broke it loose, it was simple. I still need to change out the fuel strainer, but I need to locate one first. LA freightliner did not have one in stock, and the closest one was about 50 miles away. I will wait til I am close to pick one up. BTW, that strainer looks to be a real bear to get off. It is high on the frame rail, tucked under about 20 other cables, zip tied down. Not looking forward to that one...........

Sarge

Toby · 04-19-2007, 02:44 PM

We've had our 2006 HR Ambassador for a little over two weeks now and I want to change the oil and any other items needing changing. It has sit on the lot for over a year so I know I need to change the oil. ( I took the bottom plug off the fuel filter to see if there was any water--nothing but some black specks of something.) I have two questions. Other than the oil and filter change do you suggest anything else. And, Where can I buy filters (fleetguard) No one around here has any. Geno's I see only has filters for trucks. s/Toby