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Old 07-22-2015, 09:42 PM   #1
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Old black lap sealant/dichor removed- next step?

Hey all, I'm resealing the aluminum roof on this "vintage" MH and am wondering how best to proceed. I have ground off most of the old sealant, looks like dicor, cheap random elastomeric plus the ancient black goo that they used at the factory in the 70's, which is holding up quite well btw. I purchased two gallons of EDPM "Liquid roof" which I'm going to go over the lapped areas after caulking. My question is, how to ensure best adhesion of the liquid roof to the surface. I guess I have three choices, one would be to spend hours scrubbing off all traces of old sealant with thinner, AND paint with the proper epoxy proflex primer, then the liquid roof. They say the purpose of the proflex primer is to use over old asphalt (etc) materials so as not to have to spend the time removing old materials, I could also just clean the heck out of it and go straight over with the liquid roof. Option one is obviously the best route but is it overkill, I'd rather avoid hours under the sun slopping thinner around and tossing dozens of dirty rags into the trash if possible. Also, anyone know what type of sealer the black stuff might be? I'd like to use something with good compatibility, I suppose dicor would be safe in whatever case, none available locally so am doing a bit of a "stick test" on three caulk types, but will likely just get the real deal. Pls see pics, thanks.
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:20 AM   #2
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The reason any flexible caulk is needed at the seams is because of movement of the joint. Expansion/contraction, vibration, flexing of the body, etc. I'd think about using EternaBond tape. It's available in various widths and should do a good job of covering and sealing the joints in the aluminum panels.
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:21 PM   #3
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Well, I was going to use the EB tape, but kept hearing that it wasn't always as permanent as it could be. I'm doing a compromise, cleaning it up as well as I reasonably can, then using the proflex primer/liquid roof. I don't think I've heard one single complaint about that stuff.
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Old 07-25-2015, 08:21 AM   #4
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I used a heat gun and plastic putty knife to help get the old caulking up, and have had good luck with the eternabond on a clean surface.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:09 AM   #5
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I just don't think a paint-on liquid roof product would handle the movement and flexing and retain water integrity. EternaBond tape or Dicor self leveling caulk will, but the EternaBond leaves a nicer appearance.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:26 AM   #6
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BFlinn is right. Ebond will do a better, neater and more dependable job. Just clean the surface you are applying to very thoroughly. When you get it down, roll it firmly in place with something like the wall paper joint roller. This will make sure there is full surface contact as well are activate the adhesive
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Old 07-25-2015, 07:31 PM   #7
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After cleaning the joint, I would apply a good polyurethane sealant in the joint. AND then I would apply at least one layer of Eternabond tape. Make sure to use the brand name product, the knock-offs tend to be less than the best.
Check the condition of the tape annually. I have some joints eight years old and still in good condition.
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