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Old 08-31-2013, 11:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketchange View Post
My FIRST Post..!

Greetings ALL,

Diesel fuel is almost bulletproof other than for contamination.
Keep an eye on your filtration system.

2-Stroke additive is good (the cheap stuff is better than typical additives).

pc
This diesel fuel additive study might interest you.
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:28 AM   #16
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When having "pocketchange" I use XP3 Fuel Treatment in my 1 Ton and it's got over 400K miles on it.
At 320K miles the head was rebuilt due to guide wear (no guides in a 5.9L BTW).
Out of guilt mine now has some very nice guides and the short side cleaned up.. i digress.
This test and most all of them are tilted toward desired results. (I used to rub elbows with the guys at SW Labs in San Antonio). I also have a involvement with Kinsey Industries in Conroe (check them on the web if you care to).
I've been in the performance business all of my life BTW. None of the results of these tests are long term.. no one can come up with the money for the period of time it takes to get the results wanted unless you are Cummins, Detroit, Caterpillar, etc., and from a few of the designs on the road they gave it their best shot.
In the case of my using cheap 2 stroke oil, I stand by it, my upper cylinder wear was less than .002 on the worst of 6 cylinders. I also use a qt. of the additive (i blend) and keeping in mind that the proof is in the puddin, the inside of my little HO was as clean as a pin. My living involves staying on the road, which is tough enough without concern for what's up with my power source.
MH's never get the miles or deal with the abuse of an OTR truck. Would I go to the effort of having the concern to run a million miles or more in a MH.. not on your life. Before I retired from the road the Series 60 I'd drove (and owned) was purring along with 1.2 million miles. Oil was changed every 12/15K with Rotella. 16 oz glass of 2 stroke was added with most fueling. The only issue with the Detroit involved the water pump. If you are as anal with money as I am, fuel additives are (for the most part) a hole in the pavement.

Service it. If it sits, spin it over till you have OP. Warm it up till the gauge moves and cool it down for 5/10 min's before you shut down and you have done all the things you can do and have control over

See ya down the road,
pc
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:12 AM   #17
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"pocketchange" I like your input. sound advice.

I made the decision on my last coach to pay the big bucks and run Royal Purple in my crankcases. I like the extra protection it affords. When it is time for the first oil change on this rig I will do the same.
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:40 PM   #18
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All,

Thank you very much for all the information. Going to start it more on a regular basis, and going to pick up some extra fuel filters and clean out that water separator..

Jim
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketchange View Post
When having "pocketchange" I use XP3 Fuel Treatment in my 1 Ton and it's got over 400K miles on it.
At 320K miles the head was rebuilt due to guide wear (no guides in a 5.9L BTW).
Out of guilt mine now has some very nice guides and the short side cleaned up.. i digress.
This test and most all of them are tilted toward desired results. (I used to rub elbows with the guys at SW Labs in San Antonio). I also have a involvement with Kinsey Industries in Conroe (check them on the web if you care to).
I've been in the performance business all of my life BTW. None of the results of these tests are long term.. no one can come up with the money for the period of time it takes to get the results wanted unless you are Cummins, Detroit, Caterpillar, etc., and from a few of the designs on the road they gave it their best shot.
In the case of my using cheap 2 stroke oil, I stand by it, my upper cylinder wear was less than .002 on the worst of 6 cylinders. I also use a qt. of the additive (i blend) and keeping in mind that the proof is in the puddin, the inside of my little HO was as clean as a pin. My living involves staying on the road, which is tough enough without concern for what's up with my power source.
MH's never get the miles or deal with the abuse of an OTR truck. Would I go to the effort of having the concern to run a million miles or more in a MH.. not on your life. Before I retired from the road the Series 60 I'd drove (and owned) was purring along with 1.2 million miles. Oil was changed every 12/15K with Rotella. 16 oz glass of 2 stroke was added with most fueling. The only issue with the Detroit involved the water pump. If you are as anal with money as I am, fuel additives are (for the most part) a hole in the pavement.

Service it. If it sits, spin it over till you have OP. Warm it up till the gauge moves and cool it down for 5/10 min's before you shut down and you have done all the things you can do and have control over

See ya down the road,
pc

16oz for how many gallons? I have a 250 gal tank..
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:17 PM   #20
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I can tell you from experience that diesel can go bad. About 10 years ago I bought an old tractor that had set in the E.Wa. sun for 10 years. When I took the cap off the fuel tank and smelled it I didn't smell anything and the 30 gal tank was half full. I have never seen diesel with NO smell. I dumped the tank and put in 5 gal fresh diesel. After getting it started on gas it took a long time of adding diesel before it would run on it. I guess it had quite a lot in the pump and filter that wouldn't burn. The tractor is one that starts on gas to warm it up then switch to diesel.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:06 AM   #21
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I can tell you from experience that diesel can go bad. About 10 years ago I bought an old tractor that had set in the E.Wa. sun for 10 years. When I took the cap off the fuel tank and smelled it I didn't smell anything and the 30 gal tank was half full. I have never seen diesel with NO smell. I dumped the tank and put in 5 gal fresh diesel. After getting it started on gas it took a long time of adding diesel before it would run on it. I guess it had quite a lot in the pump and filter that wouldn't burn. The tractor is one that starts on gas to warm it up then switch to diesel.
I have never heard of this type of engine! 10 yrs is a long time and anything would go bad. Algae is a problem for diesel, new or old. Algae control is a an additive we used when I worked on portable industrial generators. But, starting a diesel and warming it up on a schedule is a good idea. These newer units don't like to idle without a load. It is better for the total unit to drive it for a routine exercise. This is a true pain for RVers in long term parks.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:17 AM   #22
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If you have a newer, 08' up diesel with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) and a DEF system, I wouldn't put additional 2 stroke oil in the fuel... you run the risk of prematurely fouling the DPF.

Mal
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:23 AM   #23
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I haven't read that , Mal. The owners manual is specific about USED motor oil but says nothing about anything else. Of course warnings are all over the unit about starting with either or adding gas to the fuel. The only question is sulfur content. But, your warning is well noted and I will continue to research this topic.

When the DEF burner kicks in, if you want to cook a hotdog, the exhaust will do it! I didn't know cow urine was so volatile!
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:10 AM   #24
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I wonder if the soy oil content in most diesel fuel affects the risk of algae contamination?
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:53 AM   #25
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Cummins Filtration (Fleetguard) LT32599

Biodiesel and bio-oil fuels have become increasingly popular . However, these fuels have a greater affinity to water, and therefore are more difficult from which to remove water . Additionally, these fuels contribute to the more aggressive growth of microbes . Both of these items require the addition of secondary filtration systems to adequately protect modern HPCR systems.

Fleetguard does not say the concentration they are referring to, but I would think 100% on biodiesel. On Cummins engines of course.
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:29 PM   #26
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I talked with a guy who got a load of bio in his pickup. He did not use if for a few weeks after getting the fuel. When he did try to start it it would not start. The problem was that the fuel had jelled. He had to flush his tank with a very expensive product that would break the fuel down and flush and rebuild his fuel train. With this in mind I am avoiding bio if I can. Besides that, on older engines any neoprene seals the fuel comes in contact with will dissolve.

I was at Freightliner with my last coach. We walked through the training area and he had a new Cummins with the latest DEF emissions. He told us that he could safely run that engine with the doors closed. It is considered that clean and environmentally friendly. So, what is the advantage of biodiesel?
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:42 PM   #27
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Bio does not cause the wear that ULSD does... it just loves water.
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