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Old 01-12-2015, 03:34 AM   #1
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On The Level...

Hey everyone, sorry if this has been covered recently (I searched but couldn't find anything).

DW and I are getting ready to buy our first Class A in a few months and I'm getting all my ducks in order. One of the things I'm still working on is storage. We just bought out last house without RV parking (ggrrrr!) but luckily the street in front of my house is plenty wide enough and there are no houses on the other side. I know I'll be able to park there for at least a few days at a time when preparing to leave and when unpacking after a trip without disrupting the neighborhood too much

Trouble is it's not particularly level. As with most streets, it's crowned - quite a bit, too, from the looks of it. I don't know the actual angle but it got me to wondering: How out-of-level can the street (or campsite, BLM, etc.) be before the coach isn't able to level itself - manually or automatically?

When preparing to leave on a trip we'll wanna fire up the fridge to get it going, and you all taught me how important level is for that operation. So just how much out-of-level can a typical coach deal with?

Thanks everyone!
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Old 01-12-2015, 04:22 AM   #2
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IF I remember correctly the maximum is 5 degrees Never lift the rear wheels off the ground; that is your praking brakes.
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Old 01-12-2015, 04:47 AM   #3
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On The Level...

If the refrigerator is your primary concern, as it is for me,

Norcold says:

If you have a gas absorption refrigerator, normal leveling of the vehicle is sufficient. The refrigerator is made to operate within 3 degrees off level side-to-side and 6 degrees off level front-to-back (looking at the front of the refrigerator).

http://www.thetford.com/HOME/CUSTOME...fault.aspx#how

Dometic says:

Leveling is one of the requirements for proper operation with absorption refrigerators. To ensure proper leveling the vehicle needs to be leveled only so it is comfortable to live in (no noticeable sloping of floor or walls).
Any time the vehicle is parked for several hours with the refrigerator operating, the vehicle should be leveled to prevent loss of cooling.

http://dometic.com/QBank/EPiServer/D....000_17711.pdf


Check the manual for your specific make/model of refrigerator. You may not get enough adjustment without some blocks under your levelers.
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:46 AM   #4
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You may want to check your city code as well about parking on the street for a couple of days. Our city code states: No RV or boat can be parked in the public street for a period in excess of 24 hours and only for the purpose of loading and unloading. All it takes is one complaint from an unfriendly resident. My frig. doesn't like it when I'm over 3 degrees from front to rear when I park it. Enjoy your soon to be MH.
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Old 01-12-2015, 11:16 AM   #5
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Make a home stop part of the test drive and test it.

May be better to make a pair of drive on ramps but they need to clear body parts
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Old 01-12-2015, 12:30 PM   #6
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Generally the rule is something like 3 degrees side to side,

Suggestion.. Measure the tread width on your tires and get some 2x tread width six feet long,,(3 of them minimum) a bottle of glue and some spray paint. Cut one foot off one end, two feet off the other end.

YOu now have 3 piece
1'
2 Feet
3 FEET LONG

Stack them as shown above and glue them together,, (I find parking a car or RV on them makes a good glue clamp)

Now Get a set of those handy stick on bubble levels sold for trailers

With the rig properly leveled in the dealer's parking lot stick the levels on, one on the dash, one on the wall next to the driver.

Now, pull in front of the house, pull a bit too far forward

Lay the 3 plank stair steps behind the wheels, (One behind each of the curb side wheels, (one in front two in rear) and back up to best level (DO NOT PACK UP TOO FAR and fall off.

I keep thinking a 4th piece acting as a backstop may be good, but I have not done it yet.

I used a dowel rod to pin my steps as well as glue.
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Old 01-12-2015, 06:56 PM   #7
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Wow, everyone, thank you... excellent info and suggestions.

I've checked into our local ordinances and they say I can park the rig 72 hours on our street. BUT... I'm doubting the Homeowner's Association will be that lenient. I figure I'll get away with it once, maybe twice.... then I'll have to figure something else out.

The storage facilities I've found with spaces available (so far) don't have power to the space itself. I'll have to put myself on some waiting list if I want a space like that. Might have to spend the night before we leave on a trip in the rig in the storage facility just to ramp up the systems for a trip. Wouldn't be so bad, I guess. I think a 6-pack or two should grease those wheels

As for leveling, that's great information. Sorry guys, it didn't occur to me to search the refer manufacturer's info I doubt the street is 5 degrees... might be, but I don't think so. 3-4 maybe so it shouldn't be that big a deal to level it up.

Thanks all for the great info!
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:23 PM   #8
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Do NOT back up as the transmission may not like it.

A friend blew out a gm one doing the exact same thing.

Forward only and add a stop block to end of ramp.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:17 AM   #9
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I keep wondering about these HOAs...

How much legal strength do they have?

not being a lawyer, I do not know,, but my thinking is it is my house, My property, NOT theirs.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
I keep wondering about these HOAs...

How much legal strength do they have?
.

Plenty and they use it with your money.
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:34 PM   #11
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The refrigerator leveling spec isn't really relevant, since [when parked] that doesn't really apply until after the coach the coach has been leveled. The coach should be able to level itself enough to get within fridge specs, even if not actually "level". Mine can provide several inches of lift, more than enough to get a wheel off the ground 9which I try to avoid).
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