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Old 02-22-2015, 11:20 AM   #15
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I am sorry, but they are gluing these together??? I know they use glue on the particle board inside but on the exterior?? & your paying top $ for these rigs. I will stay with old, vintage. As far as I know I have no glue on the exterior. So much for a rear or front end collision.
The way I read you post it sounded like the whole rear cap came off, I'm glad it was those pcs and not the whole cap.
Mine is riveted on I can't count how many but there are a lot, I would leave it off unless your going to be driving on salted HWY's then I would try and have it reattached. I would look for a size screw larger than the ones that feel out. I would use stainless and in a self tapper. Or if you can a stainless bolt would be the best in my opinion.
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Old 02-22-2015, 01:36 PM   #16
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Spizzer.....This isn't new. I've never seen the rear cap come off, but check your rear engine cover and the front generator cover. In the past (at least 2004) they glued these components on and they failed/fell off. If you go to the Winnebago forum on here, you can search for repairs for glued on components.

If it were me, I wouldn't want it glued on again. I would fiberglass some bolts onto the back side and then glue and bolt the cap back on.
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Old 02-22-2015, 02:00 PM   #17
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Sorry to hear about your problem but it is very common with Winnebago caches where they have used rigid epoxy as the adhesive. I have no experience with Gorilla but suggest you consider 3M 5200 Adhesive/Sealent. It is a marine product designed to hold almost anything to anything. It is described as a "permanent" solution as it cannot be easily removed. It comes in regular (7 day cure) or FC (fast cure in 24 hours). There are many former boaters in the forums who will attest to the strength and versatility of 5200. You should be able to apply it right over the old epoxy. I have used it to secure the rear grill on my coach and would not use epoxy again as it lacks the resilience/flexibility of 5200. I believe this is a superior solution to rigid epoxy, JB weld or Gorilla glue given the "shakes, rattles and rolls" encountered at the rear of the coach. You should be able to find it a West Marine or even in some hardware/building supply stores. Good luck,
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Old 02-22-2015, 02:09 PM   #18
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Not just limited to Winnie. The front generator cover fell off my Bounder, it was just 'glued'. Went to an auto body shop after being quoted $700 by CW to reglue and they did repair for $150. Said the prior preparation was not done well. Worked well for 2 years now.
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Old 02-22-2015, 04:17 PM   #19
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On the road body repair emergency...help needed

I had a Winnie and sold it before I got to it . but my plan ( several supports weren't glued down ) was to reglue then use a Chrome round head bolt to drill through the fiberglass and support to insure it would stay!
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:45 PM   #20
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Thanks, everybody for all the expertise and thoughts. As I have been prepping The panel for rebonding, I realize three of the bonds have been broken for some time as they were dusty and dirty. I went to Home Depot, Napa and Orileys today and didn't find anything that seemed suitable. The bond that was originally used wasn't rigid, but is still pretty hard, like a really stiff rubber. So it is not a standard epoxy. I've decided tout the panel and metal frame in my jeep and take it to a body shop folks have recommended. I'll see what he recommends.

I'll keep you posted as to what I find out. Thanks again for all your help,

Jeff
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:05 PM   #21
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Here is the current resolution:

I figured I didn't have clamps to hold all the pads down to bond the frame on to the fiberglass skin myself. Also, buying a good panel glue, or some of the adhesives you have recommended was not easily available in the time I have alloted. So I put it in my jeep and carted it off to a paint and body shop that was recommended by a couple locals. It was a small family business run by a guy and his son. (Adams Paint and Body in Destin, FL) He looked at it and couldn't believe how it was originally assembled. He said he would not trust that much weight on the limited surface pads with any kind of bond, other than embedding the metal pads right into the fiberglass. He recommended two part epoxy and stainless carriage bolts. He said if I ran out and bought the carriage bolts, he would take care of it despite being stacked up for the day. He did an excellent job and I think I am good to go. Here are a couple pics of the final bond and assembly.
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I have some touchup paint at home I'll paint them with when we get there.

Thanks for everybody's help!

jeff
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Old 02-23-2015, 10:21 PM   #22
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Thanks, johndale. I will consider that. The piece is pretty heavy, so I want to make sure it is going to stay.

Jeff
Epoxy is the best possible way to go.
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Old 02-24-2015, 06:13 AM   #23
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Good travels with it, hope that works out as the permanent repair you need.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:03 AM   #24
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The 3M 5200 mentioned is great stuff.... also look into sikaflex products. My enclosed utility trailer hs no screws or rivets, just a 3M structural adhesive... I don't have the part #, but I'm sure calling 3M will get you a good recommendation
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:22 AM   #25
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The repair looks good. It seems like most of the failure was the OEM adhesive pulling off of the fiberglass, not off of the metal frame. From the pictures, it looks like they did not prep the fiberglass in any way.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:33 AM   #26
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Good result, glad you used stainless. When you get home, I would also look at your front end for similar construction, and perhaps go ahead and install more carriage bolts on the front panels.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:37 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spizzer View Post
Here is the current resolution:

I figured I didn't have clamps to hold all the pads down to bond the frame on to the fiberglass skin myself. Also, buying a good panel glue, or some of the adhesives you have recommended was not easily available in the time I have alloted. So I put it in my jeep and carted it off to a paint and body shop that was recommended by a couple locals. It was a small family business run by a guy and his son. (Adams Paint and Body in Destin, FL) He looked at it and couldn't believe how it was originally assembled. He said he would not trust that much weight on the limited surface pads with any kind of bond, other than embedding the metal pads right into the fiberglass. He recommended two part epoxy and stainless carriage bolts. He said if I ran out and bought the carriage bolts, he would take care of it despite being stacked up for the day. He did an excellent job and I think I am good to go. Here are a couple pics of the final bond and assembly.
Attachment 86874Attachment 86875

I have some touchup paint at home I'll paint them with when we get there.

Thanks for everybody's help!

jeff
Looks fine and it will never come off now. As your body shop fellow noted, the right way to do this at the factory is to glass the metal brackets into the fiberglass. The front and rear clips on my current rig are done that way.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:45 AM   #28
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Here is pic of my button head bolts. Coach was painted after installation.
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