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Old 03-16-2013, 03:31 PM   #29
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i think the 5050s put out more light, draw more current and run hotter. My 3528s draw 1.4 amps and are cool to the touch. The ends came loose due to body oil touching the sticky side, but after a re-glued, never came off.

I left the florescent sockets and ballast in so I can go back to tube or LED tube if need be. Don't think that is gonna happen. I rarely use the front fixture, so left it alone.


2004 32' National Sea Breeze 1311 Class A on a F-53 Chassis, CHF, TST TPMS, 5Star Tune.
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:59 PM   #30
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Several years ago I tried to put led strips in my fixture over the galley sink. I didn't realize the higher than 12 VDC would make short work of them until they started to fail. In a few months they were mostly dark. I bit the bullet and converted to the tube LEDs in that fixture and in my porch light. It was a $$$ solution but the lights are great. Super bright, the color is good and the one over the sink is on all day. It was worth the $$$.

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Old 03-16-2013, 06:15 PM   #31
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Neat work

Dunner did a much prettier wiring job than I did.

The first one I did is so ugly I'd be ashamed to take a picture of it.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:44 AM   #32
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I would have done better, but I figured nobody would see it any way. Normally, I would have remove those measurement numbers.
2004 32' National Sea Breeze 1311 Class A on a F-53 Chassis, CHF, TST TPMS, 5Star Tune.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:32 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by bcbounders View Post
I've been considering "upgrading" some of the fluorescent lights in my coach to LED...


I kinda stumbled onto this site. I have converted all my lights to LEDs (except T5 fluorescent tubes) on the inside of the coach. They have Warm White (WW) and Cool bright White (CW).

I just put in the T8 fluorescent replacement tubes earlier this last week and I am very impressed with the quality/quantity of these lights! I have no experience with other brands so cannot express a comparison opinion. I do like the architecture/materials in their design. I can turn on EVERY light in the coach for about the same cost as one old T8 fluorescent fixture. It makes a lot of difference while boondocking.

I had to alter the fluorescent fixtures (cut the ballast out of the circuit) and rewire a little. Tubes came with wire kits and explicit instructions (better than wiring for dummies) with pictures. It took me about 20 minutes per fixture w/coffee break per fixture. Best part was the coffee break. 3 in one hour...

As for the installation of the socket bulbs... 10 with NO coffee break.

Almost wish I had more to replace. A little to expensive. Then again, about 20 years wear out an LED and tons more battery life.
2001 Winnebago Journey 36'
2008 Ford Ranger (toad)
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:42 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by cbeierl View Post
I used this boost-buck regulator with my fluorescent LED upgrades: Auto DC-DC Boost Buck Converter Solar Voltage Regulator 25W 3-30V to 0.5-30V

Here's a thread of mine with details over on the Winnebago forum: LED Upgrades

For a 12" 2-bulb fixture I used 4 12" 5050 SMD LED strips (18 LEDs per strip) and one regulator for a total cost of just over $11.

For the 36" 2-bulb fixtures I will be using 4 36" LED strips with two regulators (due to the 2A rating of the regulators).
UPDATE: I found that for my 18" 2-bulb fixture (6' of LED strip total) I needed to use 2 of these regulators. For my 36" 2-bulb fixtures (12' of LED strip total) I will be using 3 regulators (one for every 4' of LED strip).

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