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Old 04-18-2011, 05:53 AM   #15
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proper cleaning...check radiator,,cooler
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Old 04-18-2011, 07:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
4. As far as the type of fan, I don't know. Like I said, I just bought this motorhome in So. Carolina and drove it back to Reno, Nevada.
5. No debris in the corners of the radiator.
Your D has a rear radiator with a fan that works 100% of the time by whatever engine RPM you are running. That is why 2,000-2,100 RPM helps cool going up hills.

If you looked at the radiator from the rear you shouldn't see any debris.
The only way to see if the CAC fins have been covered with oil/dirt is from the top of the engine through the bedroom entrance.
After you get to the engine area. You will probably still need a strong flashlight to shine through the fan area to see if the fins are plugged up.

The way the D is built there is no way to see between the CAC & radiator.
A lot of owners spray Simple Green on the CAC then use a garden hose to wash off. The first time I did mine. It was plugged up real bad and I used some Engine degreaser to help clean it up.

Since you refill the top expansion tank that gets low. Is the overflow clear tank empty every time? And have you been needing to add coolant back to it every time also?
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Old 04-19-2011, 10:17 PM   #17
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I had a '99 Discovery and I would vote for the dirty CAC and radiator. When the ebgine is cold wash down the CAC witha garden hose anf give it plenty of Simple Green. Go have a cup of coffee and let it sit dor 15-20 minutes and then spray it down with the garden hose. If you get a lot of junk that is your problem and repeat the Simple green process and wash down until you see clear wash off. If you use a power washer be careful and keep the p[owere spray 10-12" away----let the Simple Green do your work for you. The reason for the excess crude build is as was already mentioned the 5.9 notoriously has blow by issues with the slobber tube and that blow by mixed with road dirt clogs up the CAC. After you get it back to being clean you need to extend the slobber tube---a 6-8" piece of PVC and a hose clamp will do wonders for you. Cummins has a service bulletin pout on theis and it is a N/C fix. Other than this somewhat minor issue you will learn to love that 5.9. After 40,000 we could get 10-11 MPG and we were towing a '99 Blazer 4 down. Good luck and keep us posted, Ken Roberts....
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:38 PM   #18
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See if this will help you. Lots of people neglect maintenance.

new_fcoc_web

Good luck
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:25 PM   #19
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Thanks a lot guys...I took my coach to Cummins and showed them the replys about the "Slobber Tube". They cleaned everything and replaced the plastic tank on top of the Radiator. I just took a run to Las Vegas & back, about 1000 miles total. No overheating. You guys are GREAT!
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Old 05-01-2011, 12:15 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Ramzfan View Post
Thanks a lot guys...I took my coach to Cummins and showed them the replys about the "Slobber Tube". They cleaned everything and replaced the plastic tank on top of the Radiator. I just took a run to Las Vegas & back, about 1000 miles total. No overheating. You guys are GREAT!

Good News
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Old 05-01-2011, 07:10 PM   #21
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That diesel will heat if it is not getting enough fuel, change the fuel filter, it is the cheapest thing you can do, and won't hurt anything. Have a pressure test done on the Charge Air Cooler, any leaks in the system and the engine won't get enough air, and run hot, should get it done for $75.00. Last option that is always overlooked, is mold in the fuel tank. Two kinds, a black one that grows on the walls of the tank and one that looks like "snot" that hangs in the fuel. Either one will partially plug lines and make it run hot. Just get a flashlight and look in the tank or look in the fuel filter for evidence. If you find it, you can buy a product to add to tank to rid.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:50 PM   #22
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I too bought a 2000 discovery afew months ago . took a trip out west, pittsburgh to grand canyon and back 5000+ miles . I started to over heat on long hill climbs with no coolant loss, so I changed themostat first was a 190 degree original was 180 degree. I found a freightliner dealer and picked up a 180, after installing it and was filling the plastic tank (I also bought a new tank as old was crazed ,cracking)I noticed lack of air flow threw the rad. so I went inside and put a spotlight on the rad. it was about 70% clogged from the engine breather tube releasing oily smoke and fan blowing it into rad. and dust and dirt stick to it.2 cans of degreaser and pressure washer and good as new. hope this helps.
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:35 PM   #23
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Here is another vote for cleaning the CAC with Simple Green. I do it a couple of times a year. We've never had an overheating problem in the mountains. I suspect that your D is very close to our Landau except that you may have the XC chassis versus our XCS. Prevention, IMHO, is the way to keep it running cool.

We have and engine monitor (VMSpc) that I run all of the time. It actually shows the coolant temperature cycle from 185 degrees up to 195 and back down as the thermostat opens and closes. I also closely monitor the intake manifold temperature and turbo boost pressure. Keeping an eye on that will help do early detection of problems.
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:19 PM   #24
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Thanks giz...I'd like to stay in touch with you. We probably have lots of similar little items that we could discuss about our Discoveries.
stvscharfe@yahoo.com
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