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Old 04-27-2013, 12:49 AM   #15
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I have a '96 HR Navigator that had consistent overheating problems. I cleaned the rad repeatedly without improvement. Found out that many of the fins on the rad core had broken free from the solder and wouldn't transfer the heat of the coolant to the fins, thus dissipating the heat. Had to replace the rad ($5K). The overheating situation improved but then deteriorated. The big problem I discovered as I noticed my power steering was getting harder. The hydraulic pump that runs both the power steering and the radiator fan was worn out. Replaced it last July in Laurel, MT and haven't had a moment's prob. Towing 4-down and he longest pulls...no overheating! 1. Radiator fin detachment
2. Hydraulic pump failure
Two additional possible causes of overheating.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:21 PM   #16
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I had a friend that had a Monaco Exe with a cummins 8.3 he ran it hot enought to ruin the engine had the engine rebuilt at a cummins shop drove it home about 300 miles and it ran fine they took a trip out west and it started to over heat this went on for over a year in and out of the shop many times they had the raidstor removed and checked the fan hyd system checked and finely had the head removed could not see anything wrong until a sharp young hot rodder helper noticed some dicoloring on the block that hinted at coolant starvation, long story shortened they found a suction i think lower radiator hose that had
delamated inside and would suck closed at road speed restricting coolant flow. They spent a lot of cash for a $10 radiator hose. All this to say please check your radiator hoses epically on the suction side.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:38 PM   #17
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Walt,
You hit the nail on the head as to hoses, I have seen this occure no matter what
kind of engine or vehicle.
Old hoses or defective ones have cost a lot of people some big bucks.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:02 AM   #18
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Going to take it in and have the Rad flushed and replace the Hoses 180* therm should be hear today
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:10 AM   #19
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Well did the internal Rad flush myself and replaced the thermostat with a 180* Stat refilled with fluid and then cut a window in the fan shroud at the bottom to view in between the CAC and the back side of the rad.

Well after cutting the hole I find that the CAC and the Rad are only about 1/2 In. apart and there is a seal at the bottom between them and there is a lot of dirt falling out when I pulled the seal out from between them. So I'm guessing there has to be some debris in there so today I will be doing a intense cleaning of the Rad and the CAC with a lot of cleaner and flushing.

Did an Air flow test of the rad with some light string tied to a coat hanger and there are some very dead air flow zones coming through the Rad. What I did is similar to what some people did with old A/C units by attaching streamers to the outlet side of a fan for a visual that it is blowing air.

Will post up the outcome later this week.
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Old 05-16-2013, 02:19 PM   #20
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Rock R The 99 ISB slobber tube is where the fan can pick up the oil smoke off of the engine and coat the CAC and radiator with a oily residue if it has not been rerouted, I shoved a hose over our old ISB slobber tube and routed away so that could not happen. I will attach a method I used to clean the CAC and Radiator on the 99 Dip w/ ISB.
Attached Files
File Type: txt Radiator Cleaning.txt (3.0 KB, 52 views)
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:45 PM   #21
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That radiator pic is pretty spooky, however, I'm hoping to find the same problem with mine, which will help explain MY overheating problem last summer. A nice blanket of road goo will definitely go a long way towards NOT cooling a working engine...

As for keeping the revs up to keep the fan speed up- I found out in short order that to keep the temp from climbing I had to find a balance between enough revs and NOT spooling up the turbo-- much.

Just hope I find a clogged radiator, much easier and cheaper fix than most of the alternatives...
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:47 PM   #22
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It sounds like the overheating is related to the new engine install. It might be worth a call to Cummins and/or the Elko repair shop.

Does the replacement engine have the same HP/Torque rating?
Is there any visible damage to the engine side of the radiator?
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:21 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vito.a View Post
It sounds like the overheating is related to the new engine install. It might be worth a call to Cummins and/or the Elko repair shop.

Does the replacement engine have the same HP/Torque rating?
Is there any visible damage to the engine side of the radiator?
Had the same slight over heating problem with the old engine and it's the same engine HP/ Tq rating starting to think the Rad is done. Will have a trip report after this up coming weekend.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:54 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by rockwrangler View Post
Had the same slight over heating problem with the old engine and it's the same engine HP/ Tq rating starting to think the Rad is done. Will have a trip report after this up coming weekend.
Then that puts you back to the hoses, water pump , fan or radiator. You might want to remove the chip and see if that helps also, I think you said you had a chip?
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:10 PM   #25
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Drat! The system bumped me off when I was trying to post here. I have no experience with Cummins, but my Ford Diesels will overheat when there is air trapped in the cooling system, up high. The air acts as a barrier to coolant flow. The fix is to bleed the air out of a high point, or run the engine after warmup with the nose of the vehicle uphill.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:12 PM   #26
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It will be interesting to see your results.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:22 PM   #27
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Then that puts you back to the hoses, water pump , fan or radiator. You might want to remove the chip and see if that helps also, I think you said you had a chip?
Have removed the chip when it went bad and that didn't help a bit and really cut the power and made the engine work harder to get up hills.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:48 PM   #28
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Lots of good info in previous posts therefore I can only suggest that you check the radiator cap for the right pressure. Once you cure the problem, it was told to me by an HVAC guy to use commercial fin cleaner on a quasi routine basis. The stuff knocks out the dirt really well. Maybe Simple Green will work just as well, dunno.

The collapsing hose was an excellent tip and one that I would investigate ASAP.
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