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Old 04-25-2013, 09:20 AM   #1
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Overheating issue 1999 HR Endeavor

I have a 1999 HR with the 5.9 Cummings 275hp with a chip and I'm having problems with high engine temps when towing on days over 85* pulling a grade.

I pressure wash the CAC and the Radiator 2 or more times a year and have added an 24" electric fan to the center of the radiator (Which helped) to aid in cooling but the engine temps still climb and has been as hi as 235*.

I'm manually shifting the trans to keep the engine RPM's up for higher fan speeds but it will still heat up. There is good air flow through the radiator but I'm starting to think that the inside of the radiator may be plugged. Is there anyway to flush the radiator or do I need to replace it?

Edit: Even without the chip it still overheats and I'm towing 5500lbs.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:18 AM   #2
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Two things I have found.
Pressure washing unless done right does not do that great of a job getting rid of
grim.
You need to soak the area with Simple Green Pro HD (purple in color) so the grease
and grim will give up it's death grip on the CAC and rad then flush with lots of water.
The second item is the thermostat/s.
Most call for 195 degree or greater to be used however I have found the 180 degree
works far better in this common problem.
You may well have a dirty rad that needs the inside cleaned but I would try this
first and see if it does not cure your problem.
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:35 AM   #3
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rockwrangler

I'm with wb7auk on this one and here is my thinking. I too have an older 275 Cummins with the rear radiator and had the overheating problem once. While flushing at a coin car/rv/truck wash did help it didn't get rid of all the built up gunk from the front side of the CAC and radiator.

What did work as wb7auk said is to spray the Simple Green through the backside but more important that you lift the bed and engine cover(be careful it is heavy) and soak the front of the CAC. After you have soaked them and let them sit so the Simple Green loosens the gunk then you can spray it off. I used a spay washer attached to the garden hose and was going to connect it to the water heater if I needed the hot water, but the Simple Green did the job and everything came off.

If this doesn't work, then start looking at either the thermostat or a radiator flush. You didn't mention if your coolant is clean or when the last flushing was so I'm assuming it is clean.

One additional thought, if the cleaning of the CAC and radiator works for you to solve this heating issue, I would recommended lengthening the breather tube (aka slobber tube) so that the tube vents further down and rearward so the the engine fan doesn't pull it up and push it back onto your cleaning effort. I clamped a hose to ours and extended it and directed it toward the rear, you can check what others have done including some really nice mods with copper pipe on this forum.

Good luck and I hope this helps and please let us know how it turns out.
Tom and Barb
2000 Bounder 39Z
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:36 PM   #4
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Thanks for the input!
I have used super purple on the radiator during the cleaning and have even had it steamed cleaned. I also have the extension on the vent tube and have had the coolant replaced when they repalced the engine about 3 years ago (Long Story)

Guess I'll check (replace) the thermostat and take it in for a flush and go from there.

Next step would be a new radiator but Wow 2g's not installed is crazzy
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:29 PM   #5
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Sounds like you have only a short way to go.
What I found out with the thermostates is one at 195 or more has the temp us there
so on a pull in the summer you will see temp's at 220 or higher.
Also with that degree thermostate in just normal flat driving you will see temp's 200
or more.
Now with a 180 degree thermostate normal flat ground I run just under 190 and on a pull temp's will get just above 200 degree's
This has held true on both the MH Cat and my Dodge Cummins.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:32 PM   #6
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Well I also fought the high temperature problem and the solution for me was to get the rad cleaned from BOTH sides. I had the rad steam cleaned from the rear and I also cleaned it from the rear twice using the Simple Green method. The temperature improve but was still not running at the right temperature. Finally I cut an opening in the shroud surrounding the fan assembly which allowed access to the rear of the rad. I was shocked at what I saw. The attached photo shows what the rear of the rad looked at. Plugged at the outer area of the rad where most of the cooling takes pace. It was fairly clean in the centre where the fan blows the least amount of air. I then cleaned the rear of the rad using engine cleaner and warm water and finally the temperature runs at 190 degrees +/- 5 degrees.

Although my engine is a Cat C7 350 HP I believe a clean rad is a must for steady temperature control. I have piped the slobber tube to the rear and changed thermostats every 3 years.

Gary
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:41 PM   #7
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Yes Gary I have seen many look like that, I just finished cleaning one that was not
that bad and came in and seen your post.
If you clean it a couple times a year and keep on top of it the job is a lot easier.
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:19 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Gary D View Post
Well I also fought the high temperature problem and the solution for me was to get the rad cleaned from BOTH sides. I had the rad steam cleaned from the rear and I also cleaned it from the rear twice using the Simple Green method. The temperature improve but was still not running at the right temperature. Finally I cut an opening in the shroud surrounding the fan assembly which allowed access to the rear of the rad. I was shocked at what I saw. The attached photo shows what the rear of the rad looked at. Plugged at the outer area of the rad where most of the cooling takes pace. It was fairly clean in the centre where the fan blows the least amount of air. I then cleaned the rear of the rad using engine cleaner and warm water and finally the temperature runs at 190 degrees +/- 5 degrees.

Although my engine is a Cat C7 350 HP I believe a clean rad is a must for steady temperature control. I have piped the slobber tube to the rear and changed thermostats every 3 years.

Gary
Wholly crap!! Gary D!!
I'll do some better checking between the CAC and the Rad but I think it is in good shape just by the air flow and the electric fan I installed in the center of the Radiator.

wb7auk
What you describe is what happens to mine. hot day flat rd. towing 200* start up grade 225-235* slow down to 2nd gear high RPMs and will run at 220+. I also have the 195 therm..

Also my EGT's run max about 1000* full loaded towing to the floor pulling a grade and run 680-700* on the flat.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:20 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by rockwrangler View Post
I have a 1999 HR with the 5.9 Cummings 275h...
AARGH! The name of the engine manufacturer is CUMMINS, not CUMMINGS!!

Sorry...pet peeve I guess.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:50 AM   #10
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AARGH! The name of the engine manufacturer is CUMMINS, not CUMMINGS!!

Sorry...pet peeve I guess.
Spell check did that
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:23 AM   #11
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What I do is replace all rear rad systems with the lower 180 degree thermostat
if there is a heating issue after cleaning the CAC and Rad.
In fact I just finished one yesterday.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:24 AM   #12
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What I do is replace all rear rad systems with the lower 180 degree thermostat
if there is a heating issue after cleaning the CAC and Rad.
In fact I just finished one yesterday.
Going to try and replace the thermostat this weekend and cut a hole in the fan shroud between the CAC and the Rad to get a better look inside. Will go from there.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:48 AM   #13
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I'm towing 5500lbs.
Most MH that year range with the ISB only have a 5K hitch & tow limit on them.
May be causing some of the heat increase going up hills.

Mine will hit 206º-207º on a long 6% grade pulling 3,300 lb.
Wouldn't want a extra 2,200 lb
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:15 AM   #14
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Most MH that year range with the ISB only have a 5K hitch & tow limit on them.
May be causing some of the heat increase going up hills.

Mine will hit 206º-207º on a long 6% grade pulling 3,300 lb.
Wouldn't want a extra 2,200 lb
Hitch is rated for 10K and yes I might be pushing the limits at 5500lbs but she has been pulling this load since I bought it, but only in the past 2 have I been having the overheating issue and it seems to be getting worse.

Also a little back ground.

I've had this coach about 6+ years and about 23months into owning it we were coming back from Moab, Ut. on Easter Sunday on Hwy 50 about 50 miles east of Ely, NV and an injector stuck wide open and melted the # 6 piston to the second oil ring and we had to have it towed to Elko, Nv. for repairs. The warranty which at the time I thought had expired to my when I called the warranty company I was still covered for another 21 days.

The coach spent 1 month at the Cummins shop and had a factory rebuilt engine installed for a grand total of $15,700. After the new engine was installed the over heating issue seemed to get more and more profound year after year.

Prior to the engine failure I never had a over heating problem just a slight temp increase when climbing grades. My coach had towed almost every trip since I bought it.
Jerry
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