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Old 06-14-2011, 07:51 PM   #15
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1st as op's have said you need to down shift and keep the rpm up in the 15-1800 RPM range, and you are pulling a good bit of weight. Banks makes some great stuff, but as you know, as you make more HP you also have to be able to keep the engine cool, as well as watch exaust temps.
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:32 PM   #16
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Yep, I manually control the trans on a steep climb. Don't let it get below 1600 rpm. I'm not a fan anymore of boosting diesels, did that with my Duramax truck. It worked fine and produced BIG horsepower, but the EGT's definitely increased. Have to if you're making more power. I can live with the power, but can always use more.

When we're going somewhere, we want to get there. What do the old farts say? anyone going faster than me is a damn fool, anyone going slower is an idiot.
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:06 PM   #17
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Geeeze, I must be getting old cause thats what I always say.

When we're going somewhere, we want to get there. What do the old farts say? anyone going faster than me is a damn fool, anyone going slower is an idiot.
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Old 06-16-2011, 09:59 PM   #18
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Yep, I manually control the trans on a steep climb. Don't let it get below 1600 rpm. I'm not a fan anymore of boosting diesels, did that with my Duramax truck. It worked fine and produced BIG horsepower, but the EGT's definitely increased. Have to if you're making more power. I can live with the power, but can always use more.


Someone on another thread said that the ISC EGT is held to 1050 when stock although there's no EGT gauge on them, it's in the fuel programming. On ours with the Banks I sometimes see 1200 and at 1300 it automatically derates to bring the temps down. I've only seen that once
and I should have dropped a gear but didn't. The Banks kit included a new boost gauge and EGT which I like having. I now see 35 psi rather than the stock 25 psi. So far I have noticed better economy using my VMSpc, but not enough to notice going by the mileage/fuel usage.
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:18 PM   #19
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According to Banks and other diesel experts for horsepower the best EGT for a diesel under load with max boost is 1300*. If you have an EGT gauge and it goes to 1330* then you should downshift or let up. Now diesel EGTs are totally opposite to gasoling EGTs because gasoline EGTs climb if the mixture gets leaner and on a diesel motor the EGTs gets hotter when more fuel is added. The more fuel added the more flame and heat out the exhaust and the faster the turbo will spin. With the Banks kit on my previous MH I had to tune it so the most EGT I would see while under a extreme load was peaked right at 1300* and again according to Banks it could be run at that temp all day but no higher. Before I installed my Banks kit I just installed the EGT and ran it for a while and watched it. On the stock motor while underload it would go past 1300 all the way up to 1400* so my Banks kit actually took fuel away and improved power and reliability.
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:16 AM   #20
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According to Banks and other diesel experts for horsepower the best EGT for a diesel under load with max boost is 1300*. If you have an EGT gauge and it goes to 1330* then you should downshift or let up. Now diesel EGTs are totally opposite to gasoling EGTs because gasoline EGTs climb if the mixture gets leaner and on a diesel motor the EGTs gets hotter when more fuel is added. The more fuel added the more flame and heat out the exhaust and the faster the turbo will spin. With the Banks kit on my previous MH I had to tune it so the most EGT I would see while under a extreme load was peaked right at 1300* and again according to Banks it could be run at that temp all day but no higher. Before I installed my Banks kit I just installed the EGT and ran it for a while and watched it. On the stock motor while under load it would go past 1300 all the way up to 1400* so my Banks kit actually took fuel away and improved power and reliability.
Yep, according to Banks when I called them it's impossible to run a diesel too lean. They just won't run at all. If they run then they're not too lean, unlike a gas engine which will self destruct if too lean and if too rich they won't run very well, if at all.
Supposedly Banks collaborated with Cummins and Allison when designing their ISC uprates so you can't hurt either one. They also left the torque limiting settings in place that the Allison requires in 1st and 2nd gear to keep it from blowing.
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Old 06-17-2011, 04:52 AM   #21
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With all that said a Banks kit is fairly costly, Are we racing M/H's? Most of us drive them less than 5-10K a year. I thought the point of RVing was to slow down and smell the roses. I have had my motorhome all over the country and managed to get up all those hills at good speed But hay what the heck if you got the $$$$ go for the banks kit. JMHO
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:53 PM   #22
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With all that said a Banks kit is fairly costly, Are we racing M/H's? Most of us drive them less than 5-10K a year. I thought the point of RVing was to slow down and smell the roses. I have had my motorhome all over the country and managed to get up all those hills at good speed But hay what the heck if you got the $$$$ go for the banks kit. JMHO


Yep, the Banks system is costly, and worth it to plenty of folks. As we say in racing: How fast can you afford to go?

In our case, (and many others) the point of RV'ing is to get to a destination and have a place to stay there. The coach is a tow vehicle, and a vacation home. We tow our race car to tracks. Tow our boat to various wet locations. Tow our dirt bikes to the desert. We typically want to get where we're going as quickly and as comfortably as we can. We have a limited amount of travel time available and have a magnificent rose garden at home to enjoy...
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:53 PM   #23
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Are we racing M/H's?
uh... I dunno, are we? $20 says I get to the next exit first... hehe
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Old 06-18-2011, 06:56 PM   #24
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Banks kit it is!

After reading all the posts we decided the extra power will be worth the cost. Having the Banks kit installed next week and I will report our experience. Hope we make the hills a bit easier.
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:03 PM   #25
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Just purchased a used 2000 Dynasty with a Banks kit installed, but not hooked up. Has anyone installed the kit themselves that could give me the basics to rehook up the kit. The 'black box' has a disconnected wireharness hanging right there, and when I follow the banks wires there are a couple of nonconnected ends. Is there a risk to my unit if I hook up the connector to the box and find spots on the engine for the loose ends? Is it that simple since the original install was just merely disconnected? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:05 AM   #26
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You can go up on Banks website and get the manual for your system. Just select the correct Cummins Engine at the top of the page. If you still need help then call there tech department. They are real helpful.
Banks Power | Owners Manuals
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:22 PM   #27
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I agree about limited time to use and enjoy the rv. I usually make the 700 mile run to WVA in 12 1/2 hours flat a couple of time a year. Time in the camp ground is way better than time on the road. More horse power is always better.
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:05 AM   #28
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After reading all the posts we decided the extra power will be worth the cost. Having the Banks kit installed next week and I will report our experience. Hope we make the hills a bit easier.
I am interested to hear the outcome. I have a 2007 Discovery 39S with a 330 CAT and my toad is 4,000 lbs. I drive the Grapevine 2-3 times a year and I average about 35-40 mph up that grade. Drive 395 to Mammoth during the winter a lot and speed is about the same on the last climb from Bishop to Mammoth. We did Yellowstone last summer and the engine performed great but would like to be able to get up the grades a little easier.
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