Picture of U-Joint When Grease Goes Missing

[CountryB]

Don't bother ordering a spare unless you are planning to have it installed now. This is an easy to get part - but hard to change without the proper tools. Mine is the 1710 series (I believe yours is too).

I have this press https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- and even then it took a lot of force to remove the bearing caps. If you breakdown and need a u-joint the shop will be able to get the parts easily.

[oscarvan]

Originally Posted by LunarLight

Oscaravan, you’re helping answer a question my husband and I had: how long was that joint without grease?

Well, that's a toughy, but I'll try to answer a similar question.... If you thoroughly grease it, how long before you run out? All I've got there is: A while. You should do this regularly to create overlap... But WAG if you thoroughly grease it you're good for at least a year, probably 2, maybe even more. Now, subject of course to miles. You won't last 2 years if you do 100,000 miles a year.... If well lubed 50,000 should be reachable....

So, pretty vague but large numbers. Bottom line, is this U-joint hasn't had any TLC in a long time, years.

[twinboat]

Agree, that joint has not been greased in a long time.

Now knowing that, its time to get the whole chassis greased.

There are critical points on the brakes and steering that need lubrication.

[ScoobyDoo]

I would paint a mark on the bolt head so I can see at a glance if it is turning.

Originally Posted by CountryB

That's a good idea!

I have hundreds of ideas every day. About once a month, a good one. But I can't claim this one. Early '70s took a friend to Honda shop to pick up his new bike. I asked about the yellow paint all over. "So we can tell if you took it apart void the warranty. Before next trip I used nail polish all over my Panhead. Over the years, many guys looking over my old trucks have noticed marks on fan bolts, lug nuts, u-joints, suspension bolts, just about anything that has ever worked loose on any of my trucks.

Originally Posted by oscarvan

Rust shows evidence of absence of grease for some time.....

Metal on metal doesn't do well without lube.

Once a joint gets a little loose, it takes a lot of grease. If somebody did not check for play before pumping grease in it may not last 1000 miles. And hot steel rusts quick.

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

Because of the torque on these driveshafts, greasing is essential. In years past, many manufacturers recommended lubing the driveshaft every 5K miles. That may be tough for some, but a minimum of yearly should be on everyone's service list.

Trucks that I would park for a few months every year I would make sure it was well greased before parked. I thought if it was dry it might rust. And every week, before I used the grease gun I would stick a bar thru and try to wiggle each end of cross in cap. If any movement, replace.

Originally Posted by CountryB

Don't bother ordering a spare unless you are planning to have it installed now. This is an easy to get part - but hard to change without the proper tools. Mine is the 1710 series (I believe yours is too).

I have this press https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- and even then it took a lot of force to remove the bearing caps. If you breakdown and need a u-joint the shop will be able to get the parts easily.

I changed many with a short handled sledge, but you can't be afraid to hit it, and hit it in the right place. For most, a spare will not help, but should know the part number to be sure they get there with the right one...

Originally Posted by oscarvan

If well lubed 50,000 should be reachable....

I once fired a driver because he couldn't get the driveline greased in 10,000 miles...

[oscarvan]

Originally Posted by ScoobyDoo

I once fired a driver because he couldn't get the driveline greased in 10,000 miles...

I wasn't recommending it. The question was how long the thing had been without. If it wasn't worn and properly greased more than 50K.

[ScoobyDoo]

Originally Posted by twinboat

Agree, that joint has not been greased in a long time.

Now knowing that, its time to get the whole chassis greased.

There are critical points on the brakes and steering that need lubrication.

Pros are required to check their brake adjustment every day. With auto slack adjusters, they normally don't need adjusted. But in not kept lubed, the adjusters quit working. With juice drum brakes, they get out of adjustment, the pedal moves closer to floor, might notice from drivers seat. With air, no change in pedal, you just get to the point shoes will not push on drum.

Originally Posted by oscarvan

I wasn't recommending it. The question was how long the thing had been without. If it wasn't worn and properly greased more than 50K.

Like I said before if that joint had a little play in it, then well greased, it could look like that in 1000 miles, on a dump truck. I was servicing a truck for another operator, told him needed a new joint. His driver said no vibration, so he said grease and he would run it. Less than a week, truck down, pay extra to change. A MH, might take 2000 miles, but I would not bet on 3000...if play in the joint when lubed. With the light weight, low stress use of a MH, 10000 miles between lube might be OK, but grease, properly installed is the cheapest part you can buy.

[oscarvan]

Originally Posted by ScoobyDoo

but grease, properly installed is the cheapest part you can buy.

That's a fact. I'm sure OP will see to that now.

[1320Fastback]

Here's one of mine from when I first bought my truck and experienced a clicking on clutch release.

Needless to say all got replaced with Spicer serviceable units and they get a shot of grease, as well as everything else a couple times a year.

[mobilemike]

Many chassis made in the last 10 years have non-servicable U-joints. There is no fitting on them to grease. In that case the U-joints have a mileage life expectancy. Also in that case you need to learn how to tell when a U-joint is needing to be replaced.

[oscarvan]

Most if not all of the rigs on this CLASS A FORUM have zerks on the U-joints.... and for the splines of the slip joint and in about 20 or so other locations.

[akeagle]

I think it was in the '70s (maybe even earlier) auto manufacturers stopped using U-joints with grease zerks. Just called them "lubed for life" and saved a few bucks. Those who know of this always replaced them with the "zerked" joints.

I wonder if our modern RVs are also zerk-less? I'll check mine once she's out of winter storage.

[oscarvan]

Originally Posted by akeagle

I wonder if our modern RVs are also zerk-less? I'll check mine once she's out of winter storage.

There are (IIRC) TWENTY ONE zerks under my coach.

READ THE BOOK.

[CountryB]

Originally Posted by ScoobyDoo

I changed many with a short handled sledge, but you can't be afraid to hit it, and hit it in the right place. For most, a spare will not help, but should know the part number to be sure they get there with the right one...

Same here (I worked as heavy truck mechanic in the 70s-90s). Many times I would just a bottle jack to applied upward force on the driveshaft yoke then wack the top of the differential yoke with a sledge to get the bearing out. Sometimes they come right apart, sometimes it takes a lot of force.

But on the coach (at least mine) there is not enough room to swing a sledge - and my u-joints where as tight as any I ever worked on. So I used the little press tool (I linked to above) and 1/2 impact gun, and it took a lot of force.

Of course, its 30 years later now so maybe I don't swing a sledge as good these days. But I'd still say there was no way this U-joint was coming apart with just a sledge.

So I mention this, so the other coach owners will not expect this to be a do it yourself project unless they invest in some specialty tools.

[ScoobyDoo]

Originally Posted by CountryB

Same here (I worked as heavy truck mechanic in the 70s-90s). Many times I would just a bottle jack to applied upward force on the driveshaft yoke then wack the top of the differential yoke with a sledge to get the bearing out. Sometimes they come right apart, sometimes it takes a lot of force.
.

Sometimes on road trucks, they where a witch to get out. My Dump trucks, or tractors pulling city weights, would slide right out. I would, jack against the yoke, and hit the driveline yoke. But in my tool box I keep a normal size sledge had with about a 16 inch handle. Rarely is their room to swing a long handle working on trucks.
You are right very few RVers are likely to get the joints changed DIY. That is why I say know the part number, not the part. I bet most MHs have the original u-joints when the house is done. And if somebody was to use a bar to check for play on regular bases, (say every lube job) there would be no reason to need to replace on emergency basis.