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Old 02-17-2011, 02:30 AM   #1
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Pinnacle Information

Hi, I purchased a 1996 Pinnacle 300 last month, it was advertised as a mechanics special and it is living up to the title. The previous owner did not take care of it very well so I'm trying to play catch-up with it. Currently I was wondering if there is any such thing as a wiring diagram produced for the home portion of the motorhome? Do motorhome manufactures produce this documentation like you find at GM or Ford? I have purchased the GM P32/42 Chassis manuals which provide wiring diagrams for the chassis but would sure like to get a hold of some Thor Industries manuals if they exist. If anybody has any insight on this it would be greatly appreciated. Thx
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:14 AM   #2
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Sorry to hear that you are having to play catch up; that might be hard to do. You could contact Thor and see if by chance there are any electrical drawing or schematics they could help you with. Good luck and enjoy the website.
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:15 AM   #3
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Can't really speak for Thor Indus. but yes I had a set from Fleetwood when we owned our Bounder. Finding a set for yours may be a stretch but someone on the forum may be able to help. If there is a particular problem you are having in regards to how something is wired you may want to post it and see if someone has the answer. I'm sure someone may have the model you own and might be able to help.
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:14 AM   #4
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Sorry to hear that you are having to play catch up; that might be hard to do. You could contact Thor and see if by chance there are any electrical drawing or schematics they could help you with. Good luck and enjoy the website.
Thanks but I knew what I was getting into. Called Thor Industries back east and no luck. They gave me the number to Thor Industries West in Moreno Valley CA which is no longer a part of Thor Industries and they had no past info. Thanks for the greeting.
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:20 AM   #5
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Can't really speak for Thor Indus. but yes I had a set from Fleetwood when we owned our Bounder. Finding a set for yours may be a stretch but someone on the forum may be able to help. If there is a particular problem you are having in regards to how something is wired you may want to post it and see if someone has the answer. I'm sure someone may have the model you own and might be able to help.
Thanks, that's good to know about Fleetwood. Hopefully Thor was on the same level back then. Just a matter of finding out if they did then seeing if someone still has a copy. Have several issues of wiring that would best be challenged by looking at a set of schematics. Might be a little labor intensive to ask someone what the "yellow" wire goes too! But if someone hear has a similar model and wants to take the time I'm all for it. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:27 AM   #6
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I do have a question for some of the more experienced RV'ers here, (which I am not!). This RV was probably sitting for a while maybe up to a year. Sometime in the near future I am going to fill the propane tank to see what works and what doesn't. Any advise before I do this? The appliances on gas are the range, refrigerator, furnace and water heater. My goal here is not to burn the RV down! So I would like to check each appliance one at a time. I assume each appliance will have it's own shut off valve, is this correct? Thanks
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:40 AM   #7
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Most likely no. I don't think I have any shutoff valves, other than the one on the tank. Everything is controlled independantly of course.

As far as power, the 12 volt house system is the backbone of the RV, and it is separate from the 12 volt chassis system. Assuming the chassis is "up" work on the house 12 volts next. It will have a separate battery. It "should" charge that battery if the coach is "plugged in to shore power" or the generator is running. That battery runs all the lights, and the control boards for the fridge, furnace, water heater, just about everything.

There will be a CO2 detector, at floor level in or near the kitchen. Iit will have a switch on it. It controls an electric solenoid on the propane tank and must be on and functioning for any propane to flow. Normally, you would switch if off, wait a few seconds, and switch it back on. It will beep maybe 10 times, then sit there with a slowly flashing green light. At this point you should have propane, try to light a burner on the stove and go on from there.

The 115v system is not real important. well it doesn't do a lot. runs a battery charger, and the air conditioning, and microwave and entertainment systems, all addon stuff.
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:53 AM   #8
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Most likely no. I don't think I have any shutoff valves, other than the one on the tank. Everything is controlled independantly of course.

As far as power, the 12 volt house system is the backbone of the RV, and it is separate from the 12 volt chassis system. Assuming the chassis is "up" work on the house 12 volts next. It will have a separate battery. It "should" charge that battery if the coach is "plugged in to shore power" or the generator is running. That battery runs all the lights, and the control boards for the fridge, furnace, water heater, just about everything.

There will be a CO2 detector, at floor level in or near the kitchen. Iit will have a switch on it. It controls an electric solenoid on the propane tank and must be on and functioning for any propane to flow. Normally, you would switch if off, wait a few seconds, and switch it back on. It will beep maybe 10 times, then sit there with a slowly flashing green light. At this point you should have propane, try to light a burner on the stove and go on from there.

The 115v system is not real important. well it doesn't do a lot. runs a battery charger, and the air conditioning, and microwave and entertainment systems, all addon stuff.

Thanks for the info. I have seen various detectors on the inside but none look like they work. I didn't know about the CO2 detector so thanks for that heads up. I will look for it next time I work on it. I'll try to give an update down the road. Still working on chassis mechanical. Installing transmission for third time today. Been having engine vibrations with the rebuilt torque converters I was using. Picked up a different brand yesterday so hopefully last time for this! Then were off getting the autobrake system working! Had to replace one of the cable assys and the rotten green switch! Told you... Mechanics special!!! Thanks again.
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:09 AM   #9
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Be sure to check the LP gas system for leaks before testing of any appliances. This can be done easily with a manometer (one can be made, just google "U tube manometer") and connected to a stove top burner. Turn the LP gas on, then off, just to pressurize the system. With connected manometer to a burner, turn that burner valve on. The manometer should see pressure. Drop the pressure by anoter burner valve some to be sure the valve at the tank is off. Record the pressure while leaving the stove top valve connected to manometer and for at least three minutes. Pressure should not drop.
Once the system is leak free it will be safe to test. There are usually no individual cut off valves. The oven (if you have one) pilot will have to be manually lit. Turn knob to pilot and push in while lighting it will a long lighter. Keep holding it in once lit for about 5-10 seconds then release the knob. It should stay lit and a temperature can be selected. The main burner should come on, some take a few seconds before safety valve is opened. Stay safe and keep us posted.
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:14 AM   #10
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OK great! Thanks for the tips. I will keep ya posted on my progress.
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