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Old 09-12-2013, 06:20 PM   #43
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I have a 2001 Fleetwood pace arrow, the exact thing happened to me. I could charge the coach battery by running the engine, but the shore power would not charge the coach battery, it would drain, then no air and no lights until I started the coach again. Turns out my problem was a blown fuse on the inverter, I replaced it and everything worked fine again! It has been ok for about 2 years now, no idea what made the fuse blow, but it was a 30 amp 12 volt fuse on the inverter itself that kept it from charging the house, or coach, battery. Check for fuses on the inverter. Mine has two 30 amp, one of them was blown.

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Old 09-12-2013, 06:35 PM   #44
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Sorry, I said inverter, I meant converter, 120v to 12v. Mine is behind the main fuse panel, under the fridge. Two 30A fuses on the front. One of them was blown. When the battery discharges enough, the thermostat will not work. This happens before you lose the lights, but the lights go soon afterward. Check for a fuse or fuses on the converter.

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Old 09-12-2013, 06:53 PM   #45
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Might not be related but I had an older Fleetwood Southwind with the converter under the refrigerator. Sometimes the converter put out about 14V, other times just battery voltage,every time I opened the door for the panel 14V . close it 14v or 12.8 v. it drove me nuts, turns out bad wire connector between transformer & rectifier.
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:17 PM   #46
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One should have a volt meter and the ability to use it.

They are simple, the libuary has many books so please take the time to learn how to use it properly as it will save great amount of time as well as avoiding injury.

Get a note pad and pencil, take lots of notes so you keep track of what you find.

Loose wires, blown fuses and bad connections are the most common problems that are the most difficult to solve.

The converter may be floor mounted with a standard power cord plugged into an outlet burried under the fridge.

That outlet is combined with many other outlets, so loss of converter may align with other issues.

Locate a short extension cord so you can plug it into those hard to reach outlets, then measure voltage at end of cord.

Plug device into cord that indicates good just in case the outlet may be intermittent.

Search this forum for electrical troubleshooting for more help.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:03 AM   #47
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TQ60, way to go with and excellent post. It is said better then I did a couple of days ago, but I did stir things up and perhaps got some thinking to occur. Again, way to go an I am going keep a copy of your post and repost it when there is a floundering electrical thread which occurs quite often.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:33 AM   #48
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Your new Converter is not getting to the batteries.
That could be a simple 110 volt circuit breaker that runs the converter, or a broken converter, or a broken DC fuse through which the converter charges the batteries, or a wire not reconnected, or a failed new converter.

Everything else is charging the batteries.
Your 12 volts is required to run a lot of things such as the AC, Refer, etc.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:53 AM   #49
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Agree. After checking the fuses, OP needs a multimeter to know where to go from there.
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Old 09-13-2013, 11:47 AM   #50
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well to be honest the OP does not actually need a mutimeter to troubleshoot this problem actually. It would be a lot easier but I dont think they would have to have one. A simple neon ac test light accross the input to the converter would tell if they have ac coming in. A simple $4.95 dc test light from harbor freight could look at the output of the converter and see if it has dc out.

If no input ac follow the wires with the neon tester until you have ac then fix what is broken or tripped or fuse blown etc.

If test light out from converter follow wires looking for broken wires blown fuse tripped breaker etc. Only thing has to do is remove negative cables from all batteries to make sure that you do not have battery voltage you are reading. Also disconnect output lead from solar panel
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:08 PM   #51
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It's apparent that the converter is not putting out 12V, if it was it would be supplying 12V to the coach while connected to shore power. The batteries supply 12V when not connected to shore power. However, without the batteries it would be possible to overload the converter, depending on the amp output of the converter. The tech needs to ensure the converter is setup correctly and does not have a blown fuse.

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Old 09-13-2013, 12:50 PM   #52
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Years ago I knew who had to be one of the original electricians who only used his fingers. 120 volts with dry fingers and lower voltages with wet fingers. With blown fuses he shorted across the fuse and used his fingers to find heat in the circuit. Sure there are other methods of trouble shooting than a multimeter. However, the tech probably has to be even more knowledgeable without a meter. With a meter you can find loose connections and many other issues which is much easier than without the meter.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:03 PM   #53
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Not that I'm in any way qualified to chime in, but does the OP's rig use an automatic transfer switch? I have read that these can go bad.
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Old 09-13-2013, 02:19 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by chboone View Post
It's apparent that the converter is not putting out 12V, if it was it would be supplying 12V to the coach while connected to shore power. The batteries supply 12V when not connected to shore power. However, without the batteries it would be possible to overload the converter, depending on the amp output of the converter. The tech needs to ensure the converter is setup correctly and does not have a blown fuse.

Are battery isolation managers (BAM) not a part of every RV electrical system? My converter was tested and putting out the correct power (a friend did it so I can't be exact) all fuses and connections tested good, but that power was not going to the batteries due to the faulty BAM.

I have a Trimetric battery monitor so I caught the problem before the batteries were drained, but the OP's issue sounds exactly like what I went thru. I was able to use a battery charger hooked to the house batteries as an interim until the new BAM arrived. Just make sure that the battery charger will shut itself down when the batteries are fully charged or you may cook the batteries. Also, repeated depletion of the batteries is very hard on them. You might want to check them before your next trip.

Has anyone noticed that the OP has not checked back in since page 2? Ocipura, please let us know if you have been able to resolve your problem. I hope the disagreements haven't discouraged you from asking for help. This forum is usually better behaved.
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Old 09-13-2013, 03:57 PM   #55
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Electrical whether ac or dc can drive one batty. I agree with YC1 as I had the same problem one time and found that not only was a fuse blown for the converter but also the converter itself had a switch that was thrown or open if you will. When it was reset and the fuse replaced, all worked properly.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:49 PM   #56
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Regarding the post suggesting the O/P get a meter and learn how to use it.. Actually.. that is a good suggestion... But to get serious.

For me, using voltmeters and other meters and tools to diagnose an electrical issue is kind of first nature. but then somewhere in my life I picked up a hunk of wall paper, about 11 inches wide by 8.5 inches tall, says I am a certified electronics technician.... (I have another says "Assoicates applied Science" by the way, and some others in other fields as well) Original plan was electronics engineering. but that did not work out.

If the O/P is anywhere near me (Which I doubt) (Flint/St.Clair MI depending on the week) or near where I'll be in a couple months (Upstate SC) I'd be more than glad to demonstate the use of the meters and test lamps. (I often choose a test lamp).

One thing you can do is remove the POSITIVE wires from the battery.. Now plug in and look for power .. The charge lead from the converter will have power.. If you do not find any, RE-connect, look for a not-connected wire and measure it.

Also check salesman switch if any (Battery disconnect) On my rig the battery disconnect is a remote operated solenoid the remote switch failed. Total cost (Remember my training) was $0.00 for the repair. Held for six yearx so far since.

Of course checking the batteries themselves is a good idea as well since many converters tend to boil 'em dry and they don't work well that way either.

Someone made a coment about inverters "All are converters too" NO, not all.. Many RV's come with a small inverter (like 300 watts or so) to run the main entainerment electronics, and often this is JUST an inverter.

My Prosine, however, has the OPTION of charging the batteries if I wish it... (I normally charge with a Progressive Dynamics 9180 with optional wizard)

Back to where this post started: One of the hardest things I'v ehad to do is learn that not everyone has the training I have, not everyone has the expierence I have. Not everyone has done the research I've done.. Some (many) are far better than I (never had a problem with that) but some... Well.. I tend to assume you the reader know everything I do.. This, is, of course, not true.. You may well know as MUCH as I do, but not the same things.

This is why these forums are so great.. I know what I know, you know what you know, Sam down the page knows what he knows, Peat up the page knows what he knows. and between us.. Not much is left.

Home is where I park it!
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