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Old 09-13-2013, 07:16 PM   #57
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Yes wa8yxm, some good points - and I also have a few bits of similarly thick cream colour paper with copperplate writing on them, but to be honest, once I started my first job, they never saw the light of day. Then, despite a few tens of years in electrical and electronics design and installation and maintenance associated with various industries, I got to retirement knowing absolutely zero (in practical terms anyway) about the next phase of my life - RV Electrical and electronics associated with my own rigs - so I had to start all over again almost from scratch.

Point I'm trying to make is that formal qualifications don't mean a great deal in this field so if we were to add our qualifications and experience to our signature line, it wouldn't help other members figure out the worth of our advice, and in fact someone with absolutely no technical knowledge about anything to do with RVs may just have experienced a particular fault and watched a professional fix it so can give perfect advice to someone coming here with an identical fault. Particularly useful people are those who have done a DIY conversion on a large coach because they have been through the hoops a few times. No formal qualifications but they know at least one complex system inside out.

Back to the OP's problem. Someone charging big money and operating as a professional RV-doctor may have fluffed his lines and cost the OP a lot of money and angst, so it isn't going to be surprising that we are going to come up with some pretty disparate and possibly mostly useless advice. A public forum can't be otherwise and like it or not, anybody coming here for advice just has to judge the advice without any clues as to how good the advice is.

Best any advisors can do - the careful ones anyway - is to take all steps to ensure their advice does no harm. Any good that comes from it is just a bonus.
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Old 09-13-2013, 10:58 PM   #58
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First off, let's be clear on what the OP has...

A CONVERTER takes 120VAC and reduces it to 12VDC to charge batteries and run 12VDC appliances and "stuff"
An INVERTER takes 12VDC and pushes it to 120VAC to run 120VAC appliances and "stuff".

The OP states he has a CONVERTER that was changed out. The tech checked to ensure power was coming into and out of the converter. What is missing is whether or not the tech actually verified that power was going INTO the Batteries. I would call the tech back out, tell him your rig still does not work and recheck everything, including whether you have juice going to the batteries. Until that is done, I would not try to run the A/C units. They are expensive to replace. Low voltage will damage them.

That said, it does sound to me that your problem is with your batteries. I would run over to WalMart and grab a couple replacements and put them in and see if your problem goes away. That is, AFTER I had the tech back out to verify juice is going into the batteries. Another thought is to find someone in your campground that has a meter and knows how to use it. Ask him/her to show you how they work, then go get one for your toolbox. ...good luck...Dennis
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:26 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
Are battery isolation managers (BAM) not a part of every RV electrical system?

Has anyone noticed that the OP has not checked back in since page 2? Ocipura, please let us know if you have been able to resolve your problem. I hope the disagreements haven't discouraged you from asking for help. This forum is usually better behaved.
Okmunky,
Yes, all coaches have some type of power distribution control. Since the OP can charge his batteries by running the coaches engine and they last for several hours after being charged with everything in the coach working correctly on 12V it appears that everything is working except the converter/charger. It may be as simple as a miss placed charge wire since the batteries were replaced. It does appear that the OP may have been over whelmed by all the help. Hope he does get back to us on thd outcome.

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Old 09-15-2013, 02:46 PM   #60
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Let me start your troubleshooting from the beginning:

1/ With a DC meter check the battery voltage. If it is under 13V you are not getting charge voltage to the batteries.

Are your terminals and ground clean and tight at the batteries and chassis?

All of the other suggestions are valid. I am just encouraging you to start at the beginning with your troubleshooting. It is simple. No charge voltage, no charging. Poor connections will also cause poor charging.

Are your batteries sealed? If not, check the water level of each cell. Clean the battery top off before you remove a cap. Fill to the bottom of the inverted tower with distilled water only.

And the chase is on! Happy hunting.

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Old 09-16-2013, 09:46 AM   #61
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Quote:
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Let me start your troubleshooting from the beginning:

1/ With a DC meter check the battery voltage. If it is under 13V you are not getting charge voltage to the batteries.

.

Rick Y
I just wanted to clarify that this is true when plugged in to shore power but don't look for >13v when not plugged in.

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Old 09-16-2013, 02:41 PM   #62
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I sure hope the majority are correct. I am having the exact same problems as ocipura and I now have a new converter on the way. My current converter is 55 amp. I have a 60 on the way. Will that matter? I hope not.
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:10 PM   #63
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My current converter is 55 amp. I have a 60 on the way. Will that matter? I hope not.
All it means is that the batteries will charge about 10% faster with the new converter. It shouldn't cause any issues.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:56 PM   #64
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Cool electrical issues

Your AC has nothing to do with your batteries if your hooked up to shore power.
Has anyone checked the polarity of the shore power connection?
You also might want to consider a surge protector in the future.
You can only safely run one AC on 30 amp power.To run both you will need to upgrade your coach to 50 amp.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:09 PM   #65
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The is a remote chance that if the polarity of the shore power is reversed you might get a shock from some items in the coach if you contact it correct. Do you remember the old plugs which would plug in either way? It is a safety issue and has nothing to do with function of the devices in the coach.

On the 30 amp issue we once had an unit which would run two ACs. The only restriction is that the microwave and other heavy users could not be used concurrently with two ACs. In addition, upgrading you coach from 30 to 50amps is a complete nightmare. Score, zero for zero!!!!!
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:22 PM   #66
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Quote:
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Your AC has nothing to do with your batteries if your hooked up to shore power.
Has anyone checked the polarity of the shore power connection?
You also might want to consider a surge protector in the future.
You can only safely run one AC on 30 amp power.To run both you will need to upgrade your coach to 50 amp.
No 12V, no thermostat, AC's won't run without the thermostat control circuit. The converter is not charging the batteries and not putting out any 12V to the coach.

Chuck
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:38 PM   #67
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The OP last post was on the 10th. Maybe fixed by now.
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:41 PM   #68
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Update to ocupira's original post. I again was having the same problems and following the different reply's. I went ahead and ordered another converter and received and installed today. Everything is working just fine again. I had a close lightning strike while in Pigeon Forge and I suppose it knocked the converter out. $229.00 for a big battery charger but no labor charges due to this discussion. Look me up. I owe you a drink.
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