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Old 03-01-2013, 06:09 PM   #57
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Once again "TRY A PLUNGER".
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:43 PM   #58
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I would think that there may be two roof vents to the gray water system. One for the drain lines that is sinks, shower, washing machine. The other would be for the tank. If the one for the tank is plugged the water would back up in the drain to the next lowest point being the shower. The manufacture may of even teed in the tank vent to the drain vent. And if the tank vent is plugged no air can get out therefor no water in and when you open the tank drain air moves and water flows. A camera like someone else mentioned may shed some light on this. Also make sure that you did not overlook a roof vent
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:48 PM   #59
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I don't know how to send pictures. I don't know the URL?
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:54 PM   #60
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It really sounds like your tank vent is plugged up. Maybe one of those cheater vents was used right on the tank if it is stuck closed it would not vent
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:59 PM   #61
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You sure are a trouper! I admire ya for that. So here's my thought. Lots of speculation about your plumbing could be resolved with the plumbing schematics. If I'm not mistaken this is an '08 Monaco Dynasty. I just called Fleetwood this week and asked for mine on my '08 Bounder. Within an hour I had them in my inbox. I'm sure owner relations at Monaco can do the same. I have read all the posts and know you tried several sources but don't recall if Monaco was one of them. If you haven't tried them, I would make that job one Monday morning. If you have called them, call again. You may get someone different this time. Their owner relations should be able to listen to the problem as well and advise. If they can't ask for their service desk (parts) and explain the problem. But either way - the schematics and Master BIL would be handy to have. While you're at it ask for the electrical, battery control, leveler schematics, anything they can provide on your coach.. You'll be glad you have it later.

Have your Monaco Id Number handy when you call. With the schematics you can see every twist and turn the plumbing makes and all the little valves and vents. What flows where and how. It will remove a lot of guesswork.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:39 PM   #62
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Ive spoken with 3 techs from Monaco...over the last week.
They didn't know where and if there were air vents.
Thanks again for all your help.
Im going to try to upload a picture.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:49 PM   #63
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Anita, To upload a pic
1. Look under where you type a reply to a message and click on "Go Advanced"
2. At the top of the area where you type you message in the "Go Advanced" area click on the "paper clip" icon.
3. Another window will open title "Manage Attachments". In that window click on "Choose File"........then click on the pic file in your computer.
4. When you finish selecting the pics you want to send click on "Upload" just to the right of "Choose File"
5. Finish your message and "Submit" as usual.

That's what works for me
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:41 AM   #64
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I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it is not the vent. Like I said before; If you fill a 2 liter bottle with water, turn it upside down, with the lid off, does the water stay in the bottle? The bottle doesn't have a vent, yet the water will come out.

The only time I stood in water in my shower was when my grey tank was full. Those orange hoses in my picture go to a spare water pump so I can pump excess grey water into the black tank.

It sounds like the grey valve is plumbed between the shower and the grey tank. It could have worked "before" if the grey valve was never fully closed.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:47 AM   #65
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There is a very real possibilty that the gray tank has a clog right at the dump valve. When the valve is open it is letting some water seep through and not back-up, but not letting the tank empty. When the valve is closed the tank is still so full that it backs up into the shower. It would be a messy job but I would try opening the valve and put a cut-off piece of a slinky on the discharge . put the other in in a bucket then open the valve. See what comes out. Then take a water hose and fish it into the tank. I would cut the metal end off the hose first so it won't get caught on anything in the tank. Turn the water on full blast and see what happens.
This should be a two person job so you can quickly close they valve. I am suggesting a short piece of slinky so you can fish the water hose through the slinky into the tank and still keep one end pointed in the bucket. Wouldn't hurt to have rubber gloves and eye protection too.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:25 AM   #66
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That's a more likely scenario/problem than my plumbing error. I mentioned opening the valve part-way some pages ago, to see if there was any difference in flow. It also sounds like enough water have been run thru it that gloves would be optional.

Anita, what's the latest things have you tried? Ever get that plunger? It may not fix the problem, but could change the flow rate.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:41 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabrooks View Post
There is a very real possibilty that the gray tank has a clog right at the dump valve. When the valve is open it is letting some water seep through and not back-up, but not letting the tank empty. When the valve is closed the tank is still so full that it backs up into the shower.
We had something similar to this happen to us a couple of years ago. What actually worked to free the clog was to connect a "wetvac" to the outside drain. We did the best we could to seal the vac's hose to the drain opening. Sure enough, it sucked the clog right out of the tank. It was messy, but at least it was only gray water!

After that experience I make sure to flush the gray tank thoroughly every couple of weeks, particularly if we're sitting in one place as we do in the winter. I close the valve and fill the tank up to at least half full with warm water then I open the valve and let it drain.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:20 AM   #68
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Grey plumbing typically has a 2" OD. Not sure of the wall thickness, but a golf ball is 1.68", so it wouldn't take much to clog it. Drano is not safe for rubber, which the seals in the dump valve are made of. I would remove the dump valve and snake a coat hanger up towards the tank and see if there is an obstruction.

I have a 4 HP, 140 MPH Blowing Power Craftsman shop Vac that has so much suction, it broke the glass in my sand blaster cabinet. I would try that also. Suck or blow the obstruction away.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:37 AM   #69
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Had a fur ball in my shower drain that caused similiar symptoms. Pulled a mouse size ball out of the drain after removing the strainer cover. Running the sink in the bathroom caused water to back up into the shower. As suggested there are some neat Pipe Cleaner type tools available. Even a piece of bailing wire with a tiny hook on the end may surprise you with the results.

I don't think you have answered the question on using a plunger in the shower yet. I would run water until it is an inch deep or so and then get on the plunger while there is enough water to cover the edges. I suspect you will shoot the clog right out.

I have an 08 Monaco Endeavor.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:27 AM   #70
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I've done that hook-on-the-end thing with a coat hanger, only to have it catch on something and take a 4x4 to get it out.
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