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Old 07-16-2014, 09:57 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by racersedge
15 AMPs at best will run a converter to keep the batterys charged
If you were to try and run the fridge heaters(for cooling) and the converter at the same time on 15 amps I doubt it would work. use one or the other and DO not use a GFI protected outlet.It will not work.


MEL S reply quote:That is simply NOT true!

Yes it is 100% true. can not have the converter kick in to charge batterys,fridge heaters running for cooling and AC Kick on when warm on 15 amps and GFI out to GFI in will not work
Racersedge could you tell us why you think that plugging into a GFI outlet will not work. If you are basing it on personal experience you might have had a problem like a bad ground between the coach and the outlet. A lot of people on here have posted that they hook up this way with no probems.

I do not know what anyone else does. I will tell you what I do and you can draw your own conclusions. I have a 100 foot 12/3 extension cord. I have a 20 amp dedicated circuit that I plug the extension cord into then I plug the MH into that. If I am going camping within a couple of weeks I will plug in and leave it that way so that I don't have to empty the refrigerator. In hot weather I will turn on two of the overhead fans and have one pull air in and the other pull it out to keep the heat in the coach down a bit. This has worked for me for a couple of years now. I actually have a shop with a separate 200 amp service. I have the plug and the wiring to hook up a 50 amp service at my shop. Plugging it into the house has worked find and is more convenient for loading and unloading to the point I have not bothered to put in the receptacle at the shop.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:13 AM   #30
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Racersedge could you tell us why you think that plugging into a GFI outlet will not work. If you are basing it on personal experience you might have had a problem like a bad ground between the coach and the outlet. A lot of people on here have posted that they hook up this way with no probems.

I do not know what anyone else does. I will tell you what I do and you can draw your own conclusions. I have a 100 foot 12/3 extension cord. I have a 20 amp dedicated circuit that I plug the extension cord into then I plug the MH into that. If I am going camping within a couple of weeks I will plug in and leave it that way so that I don't have to empty the refrigerator. In hot weather I will turn on two of the overhead fans and have one pull air in and the other pull it out to keep the heat in the coach down a bit. This has worked for me for a couple of years now. I actually have a shop with a separate 200 amp service. I have the plug and the wiring to hook up a 50 amp service at my shop. Plugging it into the house has worked find and is more convenient for loading and unloading to the point I have not bothered to put in the receptacle at the shop.
Yes but your on 20 amp not 15, your not gfi in to GFI out and your only running the fridge as the fans are 12V so a minor draw on the converter
no where near 20 amp draw. I can run my two ceiling fans and converter and the 1210 norcold through 250ft cord also but on 15 amps BUT
NO way one could run a AC unit on top of all this on 15.That was my opinion point.The GFI deal I had trouble with.I researched it and was told by electricians this situation would/could cause problems.I did not need the GFI out so I removed it and ended my trouble.
I think I mentioned this in a earlier post but a friend of mine from Lynnwood said he also could not run AC,Fridge,converter all at the same time on 15amp outlet
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:13 AM   #31
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GFI and Arc-fault are more sensitive to heavy load (in my experience) than just the breaker itself. Trying a 15A or 20A outlet tends to produce mixed results, in my experience, so I try not to do it - at least not with AC on.
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:44 PM   #32
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GFI and Arc-fault are more sensitive to heavy load (in my experience) than just the breaker itself. Trying a 15A or 20A outlet tends to produce mixed results, in my experience, so I try not to do it - at least not with AC on.
Exactly what I have found out through the years and so I no longer try
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:19 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racersedge View Post
15 AMPs at best will run a converter to keep the batterys charged
If you were to try and run the fridge heaters(for cooling) and the converter at the same time on 15 amps I doubt it would work. use one or the other and DO not use a GFI protected outlet.It will not work.
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Originally Posted by racersedge View Post
MEL S reply quote:That is simply NOT true!

Yes it is 100% true. can not have the converter kick in to charge batterys,fridge heaters running for cooling and AC Kick on when warm on 15 amps and GFI out to GFI in will not work
racersedge
You said: [ouote] 15 AMPs at best will run a converter to keep the batterys charged
If you were to try and run the fridge heaters (for cooling) and the converter at the same time on 15 amps I doubt it would work. use one or the other and DO not use a GFI protected outlet. It will not work.
[/ouote].
The red highlighted portions of your quote are NOT correct because I can charge my batteries and run my RV fridge on AC at the same time when plugged into my 15A GFCI garage outlet.
Therefore you can't tell me that it will not work on my coach when my coach is plugged into my 15A GFCI outlet.
However, I do agree that the A/C can't be run at the same time.
And I have no doubt that you doubt that what does work for me will not work.
BTW, because all coaches and all GFCIs are different, if you had said yours "doesn't work that way" I would have believed you.
Mel
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:08 PM   #34
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racersedge
You said: [ouote] 15 AMPs at best will run a converter to keep the batterys charged
If you were to try and run the fridge heaters (for cooling) and the converter at the same time on 15 amps I doubt it would work. use one or the other and DO not use a GFI protected outlet. It will not work.
[/ouote].
The red highlighted portions of your quote are NOT correct because I can charge my batteries and run my RV fridge on AC at the same time when plugged into my 15A GFCI garage outlet.
Therefore you can't tell me that it will not work on my coach when my coach is plugged into my 15A GFCI outlet.
However, I do agree that the A/C can't be run at the same time.
And I have no doubt that you doubt that what does work for me will not work.
BTW, because all coaches and all GFCIs are different, if you had said yours "doesn't work that way" I would have believed you.
Mel
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I found that if a fridge for example is on a GFI receptacle and your 15 amp outlet is GFI protected it will cause the GFI outlet to trip .
Second off what were you using to "charge your batterys" My 3000 watt inverter/converter will draw over 20 amps upon startup if batterys are low
Try starting the converter and the fridge at the same time when your batterys are low and and see how long before your 15 amp GFI takes to trip
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:36 PM   #35
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Yes but your on 20 amp not 15, your not gfi in to GFI out and your only running the fridge as the fans are 12V so a minor draw on the converter
no where near 20 amp draw. I can run my two ceiling fans and converter and the 1210 norcold through 250ft cord also but on 15 amps BUT
NO way one could run a AC unit on top of all this on 15.That was my opinion point.The GFI deal I had trouble with.I researched it and was told by electricians this situation would/could cause problems.I did not need the GFI out so I removed it and ended my trouble.
I think I mentioned this in a earlier post but a friend of mine from Lynnwood said he also could not run AC,Fridge,converter all at the same time on 15amp outlet
Fair enough I just wondered why you felt that way. I did fail to mention that I have a residential refrigerator. Yes you are running your fans off of batteries but that electricity is put back in the batteries through the battery charging function of my inverter/converter. I am not saying what works for anyone else or does not work for anyone else just what I do. I did notice one time when I plugged my unit in that the current was abut 19 amps that surprised me a bit. I figure it was the batteries being charged. My batteries charge through my alternator but I do not know how well it keeps them topped off when running. I have started running my generator starting about a half hour before I get home and let that charge the batteries completely before I get home. I believe a lot of class A MH have power protection circuits on them and they have a readout of how much current you are drawing. I know mine does. Just hook up to the receptacle and turn on what you want to turn on and see how many amps it takes.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:18 PM   #36
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Lots of advice. Mine is plugged into house a lot - 15 amp circuit with a GFI - no problem....however, I do not see anyone mentioning to set your inbound power setting on your coaches electrical control board to 15 amps. I believe this limits the draw your coach will pull from the house - thus no blown circuits. Of course don't run the air....or multiple electric appliances at once. Charger, etc works on mine. Make sure nothing in your house that draws much is on the same circuit as the coach - you will trip your house breaker
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:09 PM   #37
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Plugging motorhome into house.

My coach is plugged into a 15 amp circuit when home, all the time. I routinely run the refrigerator and the converter/battery charger. It keeps all the batteries charged, all the time.

I've never tripped the breaker, and it works just fine. I have even run one of the AC units, however I did set the fridge to run on the propane first.

Here's a picture of my plug-in set up, using commercially available adapters I purchased at General RV.

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Old 07-16-2014, 10:27 PM   #38
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Why is paying $150 to have a dedicated outlet a bad idea. I had mine installed before they delivered the coach. Sounds like we are tripping over dollars to save dimes?
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:37 PM   #39
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It's not... But if you're going to have a dedicated outlet installed, why not make it 30A or 50A respectively? The electrical work is largely the same, the only difference being the 50A circuit takes up two breakers work of space. Some increased cost of wire and outlet connector...
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Old 07-17-2014, 06:50 AM   #40
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A REFRIGERATOR will work off a GFI outlet if it does not you may need to check your electric elements you may have one of them leaking high resistance ground to its metal casing causing the GFI outlet to trip.
You can break down your power cord from 30 or 50 amp cord to 15 amp to plug into a 110 outlet to power up your fridge and keep your batteries charged and in some cases with a Bird system keep all batteries charged both chassis & house.
The outlet off house current is very important to have wired correctly or you can fry every electronic devise in your coach.
This following link will answer all these questions and more.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:54 AM   #41
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I found that if a fridge for example is on a GFI receptacle and your 15 amp outlet is GFI protected it will cause the GFI outlet to trip .
Second off what were you using to "charge your batterys" My 3000 watt inverter/converter will draw over 20 amps upon startup if batterys are low
Try starting the converter and the fridge at the same time when your batterys are low and and see how long before your 15 amp GFI takes to trip
racersedge
I use the 100A automatic 3 stage battery charger built into my Freedom 20 inverter/charger to charge and maintain my batteries.
If I use common sense electrical management I can camp/live in my 50A coach when connected to a 50, 30, 20, or a 15A campground receptacle with no electrical problems.
BTW the 15A garage receptacle that my coach is often/usually plugged into is a GFCI, (but the on board refrigerator receptacle is not a GFCI receptacle).
Is yours?
Mel
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:32 AM   #42
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Why is paying $150 to have a dedicated outlet a bad idea. I had mine installed before they delivered the coach. Sounds like we are tripping over dollars to save dimes?
Paying $150 might be for new construction, or retrofit that's very close to the panel. For those of us that park our MHs on the far side of the house, it's either accept what we have, or pay a LOT more than that.
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