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View Poll Results: What's the inside Temp when it's high 90s outside?
Can't get it lower than 90 0 0%
Can't get it lower than 85 8 10.13%
It gets lower than 80 29 36.71%
I can set it for 75 if I want to...and get 75 42 53.16%
Voters: 79. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 06-25-2015, 08:31 AM   #15
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Over the past few weeks temperatures were in the 90s driving through Texas, Arkansas and Missouri. I ran the front roof air while driving and maintained a comfortable 76-78 degrees.
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:46 AM   #16
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I just drove from Tucson to Los Angeles last week in 115 degree temps. I have a diesel pusher so the bedroom gets very hot. Unfortunately my dash air is broken so I was running the generator and the 3 roof airs. Monaco it's infinite wisdom placed the circuit breaker box on the back wall of the coach where all the heat is. After driving for a number of hours it got very hot in the motorhome because 2 of the a/c circuit breakers blew so it was over 100 inside the MH until I could find the next area to stop safely and turn it all back on. Going to be working on the dash a/c soon to find the leak and get it to hold freon. The other problem was that I was heading directly into the sun so of course my windshield is a huge greenhouse. I was wearing shorts and I thought my knees were going to catch on fire.
Steve
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:32 AM   #17
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poll AC

Live in South Texas, Holiday Rambler DP MH, always run the generator(7.5 QD Onan) with three AC's(1 roof-2 Basement) & Fan on floor to push cool air to front.

If I don't keep enough air over the front Basement & Roof AC & Generator, it will trip the breaker at 34amps- heat from the generator causes the basement ac to run 16amps -normal is 11.5
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:04 AM   #18
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We live in Oklahoma, so summer outings are always hot. We use the dash air most of the time, and only occasionally run the genny and the roof air. We close off the back half of the coach, close the curtains, dress in shirts and summer clothing, and keep plenty of fluids handy. With the dash air blowing full speed,straight at you, it is tolerable most of the time.

A friend of mine added a 3 -4 ft wide smoked window film to the top of his windshield. Said that it really helped. I wasn't crazy about the look, and impairing the wonderful view from our full wide windshield. But still think about doing it on mine, on really hit days.
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:43 AM   #19
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We can get to 80 degrees on a 100+ degree day driving in the West using the salon roof AC and the rear and front engine driven AC systems (Over-The-Road AC), especially when driving with the Sun hitting the rear of the 38' coach.

The bedroom will be 5 degrees cooler.

We also have a three speed fan moving air in the console over the dash with multiple ports.

Into the sun, is more of a challenge for the cockpit.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:10 PM   #20
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On our Monaco, on 90 plus days, we hung a clear curtain on a spring loaded shower rod behind the front seats and turned on a Fantastic Fan to draw heat out from the roof. Typically, about 2:00pm or 3:00pm we would have to turn on the front roof air.

With our new coach, it seems the dash A/C is a bit more powerful and the coach is better insulated. So far, we hadn't had to turn the roof A/C on yet. On really hots days, I do turn the roof A/C on about 30 minutes before we stop for the day and let it run while registering and hooking up.
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:24 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboy473 View Post
Guys, if you don't drive in 90's...high 90's, then tell us what your response is equated to. Saying that you never use roof air when you're in MA or MN doesn't contribute to trying to figure out whether certain coaches are better with A/C or not.
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I'm glad you cleared that up?
BTW, my coach definitely cooled better in the 90's with the A/C on...than it does 15 years later with the A/C off ....(I hope that helps).
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:36 PM   #22
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Never have taken a temperature reading inside while driving but we rarely run roof air while on the road. Couple weeks ago coming home into the afternoon sun and 103 outside and only running the dash air on medium and we are both very comfortable. This dash A/C works great but I could never have been comfortable with the last coach and it's A/C system. The back of the coach will heat up and it is wise to fire up the roof system to start the cooling process so you can be comfy once stopped.
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Old 06-25-2015, 04:19 PM   #23
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So much of this depends on what the conditions were when you started out. If you start out at 3:00 and the coach was not conditioned all day, you are going to struggle for a good long while to get rid of all the Illinois heat AND humidity rolling down the road. But if you start off cool, you may get away with just some good working dash air. I have found this to be the BIGGEST factor.
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Old 06-25-2015, 06:57 PM   #24
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Good points, Bucky. The reason for my Poll began when we started off early in the morning on 2 days and temps just climbed as the outside temp climbed.

Today I measured output air from both Front and Rear A/C units, as well as the dash air. outside air was 77/78, and all three inside units got to 56/57, which is supposed to be what they're made to do...so what's my problem. Could it be the way I arranged the air coming out?

Thinking that the lever vents around the filter/intake were only supposed to be on once in awhile (from the dealer's explanation), I kept two of them closed and one open towards my DW. All other roof vents were closed.

Now I'm wondering whether I restricted the airflow too much and didn't allow that 57 degree air to get to us. What do you guys do as far as ducting the air?
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:00 AM   #25
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Your a/c should reduce the air temp 20-25 degrees below the current interior air temperature - the outside (ambient) is not the yardstick. No air is exchanged with the outside, so it is the temperature of the air that passes through the a/c unit that matters.

You will have to experiment with the duct air flow. If tour duct runs from fron to rear in one long tube, then closing off the rear outlets may help if the rear a/c isn't being used. But some coaches have the duct partitioned between front and rear, so it makes no difference anyway. Up front, closing too many ducts reduces the total volume of air reduces cooling, even though the air may be directed mostly to the driving area. Try it various ways to see what works best. I leave all of mine open, and have the dash air fans on (re-circulate setting) for better circulation around the seats. I usually have the dash a/c on as well, for more help in my immediate area.
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Old 06-27-2015, 03:00 PM   #26
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I can get my coach down to around 77* with both airs running in 90*+. My milege really suffers when I run the dash air. It works great but not worth giving up the 1/2 mile per gallon it takes to run it. My generator only burns around a 1/2 gal per hr and the Not-so-cold fridge stays colder too because the fans I installed will only run on 110v.
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Old 06-27-2015, 11:24 PM   #27
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Beaver MH Gen set running, dash air, both ac going temp in rear 74 temp up front 74 outside temp 98 2 days ago across Ark and eastern Tenn.
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Old 06-28-2015, 05:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecpayne View Post
Beaver MH Gen set running, dash air, both ac going temp in rear 74 temp up front 74 outside temp 98 2 days ago across Ark and eastern Tenn.
Good description. OK, it must be how I arranged the ducting. I had only the front air on (door closed to the rear). Thinking that I wanted to maximize cooling to the passenger seat, I closed all ceiling vents, and closed two of the three sliding vents on the filter cage.

Maybe I restricted too much air? How were your vents arranged?
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