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Old 05-10-2013, 07:44 AM   #15
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I agree with ROGER
Welcome to irv2 and congratulations on your new coach.
After you have your coach weight will all that you will carry in it adjust your tire pressures to the Michelin tire pressure tables.
For an example with the weight of my coach my rear duels are at 85psl and front tires are 95psi.
Your tire foot print will improve and a better ride.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:12 AM   #16
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If, as you say, the bushings at the base of the shock absorbers are 'cracked and aged' then the shocks may be originals, even if they look bright and clean. Personally I have never liked Bilstein as I have found them to be very hard, more suited to race cars than our potholed and weather damaged roads. So if you can drop the $$ on them, a set of KYBs can do no harm.

Getting a full alignment at a competent truck shop would definitely be worth the effort.
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:54 PM   #17
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I have almost no aftermarket steering and suspension components added. I did add caster and stiffened the stock sway bars. These MH's are really a truck. They ride hard on bad roads. They are not a car. Don't oversteer or over-correct. Tire pressure is critical. I run 80 all around.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:14 PM   #18
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Not all alignments are equal. I would double check the alignment after doing the weight and tire pressures. Mine is only a W22 but generally find that the Workhorse ride better tha the Ford of the same era. I would also check the tire age. Many times a tire on a new coach is already close to a year old before put on the road. Manufacturers buy chassis and leave them sit in fields while waiting to build on it.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:25 PM   #19
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Heading for the scales tomorrow to get it weighed. I know the dealer set the tire pressure to maximum (I checked it) so maybe I can back off a bit and smooth the ride. Then maybe will think about shocks. If we could cut down the banging I could live with the vague steering. I am going to drop the Safe-T-Plus for a while and try it out. I see a real love/hate deal out there in RV-Owner-land on those things. Plus, when I have my wife turn the wheels and I observe its operation, there is a notable movement caused when that stabilizer cylinder goes through the center point. Kind of a clunk, but no noise, you can feel it.

Someone suggest I learn to drive it. I have spent enough time in it to know how it drives plus I have driven other large vehicles in the past. Crap is crap. Someone suggests that this is the nature of Class A's. So be it, that was the input I was looking for so I know what to expect. But I really don't understand then why all the people we talked with in RV parks about how they loved their Class A's over the Class C they previously owned. No one said the Class A drove poorly. Now I own one and suddenly poor handling is the nature of the beast. Humans...

Thanks for all the help! Will keep you posted.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:19 PM   #20
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?..I know the dealer set the tire pressure to maximum (I checked it) so maybe I can back off a bit and smooth the ride.
BINGO! I'll guarantee that is the reason for your rough ride and vague steering. The pressure shown on the sidewall of the tire is the MAXIMUM PRESSURE the tire should be inflated to when carrying its MAXIMUM RATED LOAD! Your motor home does not load the tires anywhere near the maximum load that your tires can carry.

A first-hand example...
Linda and I own an '06 Mandalay 40E. It's built a Freightliner XCR chassis with independent front suspension. I was carrying 110 psi all around. The ride was a bit stiff and the coach tended to oversteer. When I had the coach at Camp Freightliner, I had them weigh the coach at all four wheels. As a result of that weighing, I now run 95 in the rears and 105 up front. The ride is MUCH better and the oversteer is gone.

Get your coach weighed at all four wheels, then consult the chart for your tires to see what they should be inflated to. The number will be several pounds UNDER the maximum. This will be a lot cheaper that installing a bunch of extra devices that you may not need.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:49 PM   #21
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Our Winnebago Sightseer drove like a dream except for the crappy brakes.

Our current RV, 08 hr 42 footer was a toad, tank, whale, and miserable to drive long distances and white knuckles when a truck came by.

Ride height, tires pressure, front end aligned, sway bars and this week I installed Bilstein shocks.Oh yea, Safe-t-plus too with a trim kit I built. These were designed specifically for this model RV. They were road tested in the Sacramento are just South of me 35 mile so I know the miserable roads they most likey tortured them on.

So before anyone throws Bilsteins under the bus for a rough ride check them out on their site. The factory Monroes only had 16000 miles. The interesting thing about the Bilsteins is they will compress with my body weight in less time than you would see on a normal gas shock. When they extend back they come back slowly. I suspect this accounts for a less than hars ride. I haven't given it a real road test yet but just entering the rv it feels firmer now. We had noticed it moving quite a bit before changing them.

The front end alignment made the most improvement. While doing that they will determine if you have any worn components.
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:05 AM   #22
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Mine also jars when I hit pot-holes. I'm surprised the dealer didn't tell you: "They all do that".
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:13 AM   #23
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KONI'S enough said... When do I get mine?
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:16 PM   #24
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Put her on the scales today and have 7060 on front axle, 13840 on rear (no way to measure by individual wheel at the scale so divide by 2 to get the per axle-end value). This was with full fuel, full propane, full water and most of the junk we would typically take. No food, clothes, dogs or wife. So if I add 5% it will give me about 1000 pounds for such things and some safety factor. Per Michelin ( Michelin tire pressure tables. link provided by 007, thank you. Oh and if you want to see what our motorhome looks like, it is exactly the unit you see when you follow that link, color and all!!!).

According to Michelin, we could go as low as 80 on the front and 85 on the back, which does not seem right to me so will probably run down to 95 on front and 90 on the back and see what will happen.

Going to have to wait to see how it works though, leaving for a week in Kona tomorrow. Maybe we can pick up some Konis while in Kona. I here they grow on trees there.
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:02 AM   #25
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...According to Michelin, we could go as low as 80 on the front and 85 on the back, which does not seem right to me so will probably run down to 95 on front and 90 on the back and see what will happen.
Wait a minute! You get your motor home weighed, consult the Michelin chart to see what the correct tire pressure is, but you're not going to follow the Michelin pressure table because it doesn't "...seem right..."?

Why did you bother to weight the coach if you are not going to use the information correctly? You just wasted your time...
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:55 AM   #26
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Wait a minute! You get your motor home weighed, consult the Michelin chart to see what the correct tire pressure is, but you're not going to follow the Michelin pressure table because it doesn't "...seem right..."?

Why did you bother to weight the coach if you are not going to use the information correctly? You just wasted your time...
Good point, but the other thing that confuses me is why what "seems right" is to take Michelin's numbers and add 15 lbs to the front, but only 5 lbs to the rears? Sounds like the lighter loaded tires are getting a greater increase

I have no doubt that the "new" pressures will improve the ride from the original pressures, but I wonder how much better it would be running pressures that Michelin considers the correct.

Although I have a diesel pusher, the Michelin's don't know that. My weights are 8040lbs on the front axle and 17,560 on the rear. Michelin says 75 psi on the front and 95 psi on the rear. I'm thinking that Michelin knows more about their tires than I do, so that's what I run. Rides good, handles good . . . for a 26,000lb truck on a 29,000 chassis. Just sayin'
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:40 PM   #27
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Wait a minute! You get your motor home weighed, consult the Michelin chart to see what the correct tire pressure is, but you're not going to follow the Michelin pressure table because it doesn't "...seem right..."?

Why did you bother to weight the coach if you are not going to use the information correctly? You just wasted your time...
Wow, really? I thought this was supposed to be a friendly forum.

I didn't waste any time and I used the information correctly. I have the weights now and know what the Michelin recommended pressure is. That is all it is, a recommended minimum to hold the weight. I used it as the baseline for my calculations and can continue to do so. Perhaps "seem right" is too loose a term, I only meant that I did not want to run close to that pressure since we needed to add some freeboard and a factor of safety. We have had multiple blowouts on our class C and travel trailer before that. And that was running them at fully rated pressures and not overloaded. I would rather have a stiffer ride than a blow out on the front tire of a 10-Ton brick going down the road.

And like I said at the end, "and see what will happen". To me the safe route is to stay on the high side and take a few trips and measure tire temperature. If performance and safety are not in question, I can lower it a bit closer to the recommended pressures.

And in response to Stik, do the math. The backs are duals and the pressure changes will be roughly half of that needed in the front, plus you have to look at the exact axil weight. The math is right I believe.

Thanks all.
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:09 PM   #28
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With all due respect to those who "welcome [the op] to driving a Class A", as if to say they all drive like crap: Over the years I've owned (in order) a '78 Delta 21' C, (Dodge), a '78 Cruise-Air 28' A (Dodge) a '94 27' Winne Brave A (Chev), an '87 32' Cruise-Air A (Ford), and now our Allegro bus. Without exception, they all drove just fine and dandy, MOST OF THE TIME. And when one of them DID start driving funny, there was always a reason. The Delta started feeling funny on a trip to Yellowstone, turned out the right front tire cord had shifted, and so did the inside right rear. Our '78 Cruise-Air had a straight axle, and drove fine for 2 years, then it started getting squirrely. The drag link needed to be changed. A short time later it started feeling weird up front, the right front tire did the cord-shift thing... Our Brave drove fantastic for the first season, then started wandering. A steering arm and a bellcrank had to be replaced. As for our '87 CruiseAir, that John Deere/Ford chassis was and still is built like a brick, always drove like a pickup truck. Oddly, the worst RIDING motorhome we've ever owned is our Allegro. Air-bag suspension just plain sucks on anything but the freeway. But NO steering problems. However, after changing out the original Michelin's last year, it did get even better.

It's just my opinion, but if it's not steering or tracking right, something is wrong. Tire problem, alignment issue, some steering part warn... but something. One thing i've found over the years with ALL vehicles, is that a tire change usually results in a noticeable change, usually for the better, but sometimes not. You might try a rear-to-front tire rotation just to see if it gets better or worse...
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