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Old 09-03-2014, 08:22 AM   #15
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Start sniffin out all the internet based solar places. Looks like panels are down to about $1/watt. "IF" you can find a local source you will save a TON on shipping.
I dod't see a location on your post so not shure who's the closest.
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:11 PM   #16
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Providing I can do all the work myself and I install 300watts how much would it cost for everything assuming I will be buying from the suppliers that you recommend? Just want to get a rough idea. Thanks
This brings up a question that has been bugging me: not having done this kind of work myself ... just HOW does one go about bringing the wires from the panels (which are on the roof) down to the vicinity of the battery bay (which is down by the wheels)????
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:40 PM   #17
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OP-

As a minimum, have the same number of panel watts as your battery 20 hour amphour rating. For 4 6v batts that is a minimum of 400 watts.

It is easy to do with 2 200-250 watt panels with a 45-60 amp MPPT controller.

In addition to Handybob, see JM's site also:
RV Electrical

For panels, compare with:
http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Panel...1f825a7bf024ed

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaminman View Post
Providing I can do all the work myself and I install 300watts how much would it cost for everything assuming I will be buying from the suppliers that you recommend? Just want to get a rough idea. Thanks
Under $2K can get you the above along with a Trimetric battery monitor with wires, connectors, boxes, switches, fuses, breakers, mounts, etc. Add a big inverter and it will be more.

Good luck!
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:22 AM   #18
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This brings up a question that has been bugging me: not having done this kind of work myself ... just HOW does one go about bringing the wires from the panels (which are on the roof) down to the vicinity of the battery bay (which is down by the wheels)????
Two ways down through the refrigerator vent or drill a hole in the roof. Chose which ever way is the shorted and best for you. You will need to mount a combiner or junction box on the roof where you connect the leads to the down feed wires to the controller. Don't go cheap on the wiring, you want to have the total system voltage drop under 2%. All solar panels are rated Standard Test Conditions (STC) @25C or 77F and Nominal Operating Cell Temperature (NOCT) @47C or 116.6F. In the real world operating conditions depending on the angle of the sun and temperature of the panels and any shading do your calculation using the NOCT rating. If you get better performance from your system you'll be a happy camper, if you don't get what you expect from your system you'll be kicking yourself. I am by no means an expert on the subject, just what I have learned by reading and asking questions.

Chuck
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:45 AM   #19
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I agree with chboone completely. We came through the roof and down behind our stacked washer and drier as it was an easy way to the basement and close to the house batteries. I used a PVC square electrical box on the roof to collect individual panel wire feeds and ran them individually through flat mini fuses so if I had to troubleshoot my panels I could disable one or more without having to actually disconnect wires. I used short ground bars (Lowes) to connect the individual panels to the heavy down line in the PVC roof box. From there, the heavyweight line to the fuse just before the controller and then again through a fuse to the batteries.

Good luck with it.
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:21 AM   #20
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Another option would be droppingg down the rear fiberglass cap if you don't like then idea of drilling a hole into the living quarters.
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