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Old 09-21-2013, 05:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by La-Z-Boy View Post
It is not difficult at all...

The wires coming from the shore power and the generator, come in to the switch on one side and the wires to the breaker panel (house) are on the other side. ( could be top and bottom, depending on switch)

Disconnect all three with a screwdriver, then remove the "box" from the wall.
Install new switch "box" and reconnect.

Might want to take a picture of the order of the colored wires, if you are not too electrically inclined.

That's the broad stroke... Directions that come with will be more specific.

Good luck, pretty straightforward...
Jeff
This is going to be a stupid statement but in case you are not familiar with electricity or not thinking. Remember to disconnect the shore power, turn off the generator and disconnect the batteries so the inverter cannot run. If you wind up having to replace the transfer switch.

The previous poster actually has good advice just because you can plug something in and run does not mean the motorhome power will run. I plug my coach into a 15 amp receptacle through an extension cord when I get home if I get home late and want to take all the food out of the freezer the next day. On one of my times unplugging the extension cord the ground plug broke off and stayed in the receptacle. I plugged the extension cord in and did not realize the ground pin was already in the receptacle. I plugged the coach into the extension cord and no ac power at the refrigerator. ( I always turn the inverter off when plugging into ac power to make sure I actually have pedestal power not the inverter running) I grabbed a portable ac light and plugged it into the extension cord and the light worked fine. I checked the power management system and it did not show anything. I finally got started thinking in the right manner and unplugged the extension cord and looked at the plug. I noticed that the ground had broken off. I replaced the plug with a new one with proper ground plug. I plugged it back in and everything worked like it was supposed to. Bottom line before spending the money on a new transfer plug I would check the ground etc on the 15 amp receptacle actually I would probably just take the time to go to a local campground and ask them if you could just plug into 50 amps and see if you have power if you do then start looking at the 15 amp ground or the ground on your adapter or adapter combination to allow you to plug into 15 amps. If any of those are missing a ground or neutral through a bad connection your power management system might be not allowing the power into your coach.
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by La-Z-Boy View Post
It is not difficult at all...

The wires coming from the shore power and the generator, come in to the switch on one side and the wires to the breaker panel (house) are on the other side. ( could be top and bottom, depending on switch)

Disconnect all three with a screwdriver, then remove the "box" from the wall.
Install new switch "box" and reconnect.

Might want to take a picture of the order of the colored wires, if you are not too electrically inclined.

That's the broad stroke... Directions that come with will be more specific.

Good luck, pretty straightforward...
Jeff
First make sure shore power is disconnected, generator off, AGS off...
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:50 PM   #17
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Transfer switch is not hard to replace, just take photos and label wires if you need to. When tightening down the connections, make sure all wires are twisted tightly with no stray strands sticking out. Torque them down very tight, then after a trip or two, re-tighten. The stranded wires could shift with vibration and become loose. Loose connections can cause resistance, which creates heat, and we don't need to go further than that.
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:50 PM   #18
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My apologies to the Post that I responded to...
I was not troubleshooting the problem, merely answering the question that I quoted.
With regards to unplugging and turning off all sources of power, there again, I was not, nor am I qualified to give step by step directions for the complete job. Just answering the simple question of difficulty, in my opinion.
Next time I will either be ultra specific, and try to cover every possible option and opinion,or just stay away from giving an answer,

Again sorry
Jeff
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:55 AM   #19
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I would not replace the transfer switch without verifying the 15 amp circuit you are using is in good condition. Do you have an EMS with a display? If you do does the display show any error codes? Is it showing the correct voltage? Just because your air compressor ran when plugged into the extension cord, doesn't mean your EMS will pass it through, if you have one. Also, if your EMS is wired the same as mine the generator does not pass through it. Replacing the transfer switch is not hard as long as you follow the instructions. However, there is a difference in the IOTA 50 amp and the ESCO Lyght 50 amp which I have. The IOTA has two relays and the ESCO has three relays, so there will be some additional wiring to replaced one with the other. If I were you I would plug the coach into a different circuit beford doing anything else.

Chuck
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:38 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by johnsonk555 View Post
What brand is your Transfer Switch? If it is the IOTA plastic one, there is a recall on it. I have a 08 coach and my transfer switch melted.
Just replaced my IOTA ats on a 07 Beaver.
Same problem and circumstances, apparently bad switch as well as being mounted in position where no heat dissipation could take place. We were lucky to not burn our coach to the ground. This also took out a board in our Magnum inverter.

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Old 09-22-2013, 10:06 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chboone View Post

However, there is a difference in the IOTA 50 amp and the ESCO Lyght 50 amp which I have. The IOTA has two relays and the ESCO has three relays, so there will be some additional wiring to replaced one with the other. If I were you I would plug the coach into a different circuit before doing anything else.

Chuck
According to the following the IOTA has two contactors (relays) and the ESCO Lyght 50 LPT50BRD has two also.

The only wiring difference would be where the wires enter the transfer switch box.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Attached Files
File Type: pdf IotaITS_50R_switch.pdf (90.2 KB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf Lyght Transfer Switch.pdf (528.7 KB, 22 views)
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:28 AM   #22
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Richard, yes you are correct they both have two relays, I should have double checked before posting. Don't know why I said the ESCO has three relays, I have one and installed it myself. Also, to correct my saying not to replace the IOTA, I was wrong on that also because of the recall. I should have read this discussion first IOTA Transfer Switch Recall One thing to remember before you switch power supply, generator to shore or shore to generator reduce the load to minimum. That applies to any brand transfer switch. The arcing of the relay contact under high loads will cause pitting of the relay contacts. The pitting will cause overheating of the relay and cause damage to the wiring or a fire. Sorry for the misinformation in my earlier post.

Chuck
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:34 AM   #23
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The first place I would check is the voltage where the shore cord connects. Then move upstream fom there.
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:16 PM   #24
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Took the motorhome out of storage and drove it to,a campground. Plugged in to 50 amp,service and now have power to all my appliances. Battery charger working too.

Must be the 15 amp circuit or maybe the connections on my 50 amp cord.

Steve
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Old 10-08-2013, 04:54 PM   #25
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Took the motorhome out of storage and drove it to,a campground. Plugged in to 50 amp,service and now have power to all my appliances. Battery charger working too.

Must be the 15 amp circuit or maybe the connections on my 50 amp cord.

Steve
Good to see you got it working and a lesson was learned. i.e.: trace the power from the source through the RV, in your case, checking every connector and adapter from the plug after FIRST verifying power was at the shore plug. If power is at all adapters, then move to the next connection point at the end of the cord which would terminate at the transfer switch and move further down the line as required if all was OK there,

I bet you will not be caught on this one again.

Your first clue should have been you did not hear the transfer switch activate and no power was in the coach but it was OK with the genny, So the only possible scenarios were: Power was not getting to the transfer switch, or the switch was defective. I believe several responders focused right on his aspect.

Another problem solved and another lesson learned.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:15 PM   #26
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The first place I would check is the voltage where the shore cord connects. Then move upstream fom there.
+1, very good advice... follow the voltage! make sure the connections are good. There are reasons why things dont work. The ATS is a simple device... not much to go wrong there... but if there are loose wires or corrupted terminals... that would be very hazardous.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:27 PM   #27
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Looks like several of the posters was right that it was the power you were plugging into. I am curious did you go back to where it was stored and check the power there. Was it a bad ground or something like that we are curious.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:37 PM   #28
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I just returned from my son's house in Denver. While we were there I tried hooking up the RV to an outside outlet on his house. (just 15 amp, wanted to keep batteries up and fridge on 120 v) Somewhere I had gained a 30 amp to 20 amp converter plug that has a built in neon light when power is present. It lit up, bu my EMS gave an error code of areverse polarity condition. It figured, I had helped him renovate a basement apartment in the house and found many wiring errors. I opened the outlet box and found the wires hooked up wrong. Reversed them, put it back together and my EMS allowed electricity to flow.
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