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Old 02-11-2011, 12:44 PM   #29
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I can scratch the cement with a ice pick and it doesn't flake up. Yes the contractor told me to use a sprinkler. It was a fast spinning sprinkler that throws fine water drops but not a mist. So for you experts, when they redo it should I use the steel mat vice rebar and should I use plastic sheeting across it vice the sprinkler for curing?
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:19 PM   #30
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The rebar or wire mesh is acceptable. Wire is probably better at keeping cracks from spreading. Using plastic to cover the whole thing makes the concrete self watering. Just extend it past the edges of the slab and throw some dirt on it. The water evaporating from the concrete will soak the surface for you.
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:39 PM   #31
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SargeW has given you great advice.

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Old 02-11-2011, 09:01 PM   #32
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For a rig as big and heavy as yours, I'd be tempted to do a pre-stressed installation. They aren't cheap, but the system will almost ensure no cracking.

What the installer does is put a web of wires along and across where the pad will be. The wires are anchored at one end and then tensioned from the other to a fairly high load. After the concrete has cured, the tension is released.

In this manner, the concrete will never see a tensile load, because the prestress iwas higher than any load that will hit it. Concrete is extremely strong under compression loads but has weak resistance to tensile.

I considered this, but my (then) 26' Class C wasn't heavy enough to worry about. Even our current 32' Class A is fine. The upper end of the pad, where the rig sits over the winter, was made 6" thick with 50% extra aggregate and a steel mat.
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:12 PM   #33
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I'm having a garage put out back this coming summer and up until reading this I never gave the floor much thought other than where the two hoists will be mounted, now you all have got me "stressing" out about it

I have a 38' now but the floor plan calls for a 45' storage spot just in case
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:59 PM   #34
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wa8yxm- A former german military engineer who worked for me in Germany had helped build the autobahn prior to WWII. He stated that they used a deep subbase of sand. The reason was availabilty/ speed of repair (war time-thinking ahead)/ease of use. At least ten years ago they were still using a sand base for roads
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:10 PM   #35
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SargeW,
Any ideas on designing a workable slab with a 4"-6" or so "pit" running longways down the driveway? Make it wide enough (say 36") to slide under the coach on a creeper and do some filter changes and other chassis maintenance. This would allow you to dump air suspension and still get under coach without jacks. Pit would only need to be about 20' or so since you could move the coach easily after doing the oil change and other engine fluid work. Would like for the drop off to the pit be well rounded so that you would not cut a tire if you mis-calculated your approach. Guess you could put some sort of drain in that could feed to the outside of the drive. Just thinking aloud........thanks.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:40 PM   #36
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Sure, putting a sunken pit in a slab is just like building a box full of cement, only in reverse. In a pit you dig your hole and frame the box on the inside. The challenge is bracing the inside of the box to withstand the weight of the concrete pushing in on it. Set your boards in the pit about 6" off the ground and put a rebar mat in it. 20' should be plenty long. when you pour your concrete order it at a 5" slump to make sure that it arrives dry enough. Pour around all the edges of the pit first with the dryer concrete, then you can add a little water to the mix to make it workable in the slab area.

If you want the sides curved or sloped, make the pit in two pours. Pour the driveway around it first and box out where the pit will go. Then after the driveway is dry, dig out the pit as deep as you want it and pour the pit area just like the drive area, just slope the sides up to meet the edges of the existing slab. With this type of pit area, you will need it to be about 2' wider than the straight wall pit. This will allow for the sloping sides of the pit.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:57 PM   #37
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SargeW,
What would you do about drainage if you could not run the pit all the way to the end of the driveway?
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:16 AM   #38
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Depending on the way that the pit was sloped, 1" PVC pipes could be inserted under the driveway portion about every 10' with one end of the PVC at the bottom level of the sides of the pit, and the other running to the edge of the driveway.

Another option would be a drain line in the center of the pit filled with rock. But for that to be a realistic option you would have to live were there was really sandy soil to allow the water to seep into the ground.
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Old 02-12-2011, 07:59 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVhauler View Post
wa8yxm- A former german military engineer who worked for me in Germany had helped build the autobahn prior to WWII. He stated that they used a deep subbase of sand. The reason was availabilty/ speed of repair (war time-thinking ahead)/ease of use. At least ten years ago they were still using a sand base for roads
I guess the advice is "Hire a German Autobon Roadway engineer to design the pad" cause they know how to do it

BY the way... That is not a joke... The Germans planned for the long term when they built that road... Not like the US folks who plan on frequent replacement so as to keep employment and thus profits up.

The office where I worked shared space with A Michigan Dept of Transportation projects office... Years ago I watched a movie, it featured a California freeway traffic control office, pure science fiction when the movie was filmed..... Other than the address (Detroit, MI) It was where I worked a few years later.
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Old 02-12-2011, 08:33 AM   #40
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I lived in southern CA, where we have ground movement from earthquakes. Use a good 6 bag mix, Tell the cement driver no water to be added at the jobsite. So he will get it right the first time. 6" thick and 12" thick around the edges. Saw cuts or expansion joints. And by all means keep it covered with plastic and do not drive on it for 28 days. The 6 bag mix with no water added at the jobsite will give you a nice grey colored driveway with no blemished spots. Have them install blocking to raise the wire mesh 1 1/2 inches off the base. You might also add 12"long rebar at a 90 degree angle under the saw joints. Do this and that motor home will have a happy home.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:06 PM   #41
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OK found a contractor. 15'x48'. I've decided on a 5" thick slab with a 10"x10" footer around the perimeter. 6x6 #10 WWF and 2- 1/2" rebar in the footer. plastic on top for 28 days. $4,300. Clovis ,CA. No cracks please.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:41 PM   #42
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Are they going to do the crushed rock preparation under the pad in that price?
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