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Old 02-27-2011, 10:33 PM   #43
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I don't think having a depression in the slab would be a good idea.walking thru at nite would be dangerous. Removable heavy solid wood ramps that could be stored when not being used would leave a flat slab easier to clean and no drainage problem.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:37 PM   #44
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No, No base rock. The slab will be an on grade pour. It is some solid clay.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:38 PM   #45
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:54 PM   #46
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I poured a 12x33 slab two years ago. I leveled the site, framed it with 2X6's, added 4" gravel and blocked up wire mesh 1 1/2". Then I called one of the local cement plants and talked to the plant supr. and told him I would take any/all of their left overs up to completion of the slab. He agreed but emphasized he could not guarantee or predict the mix or color. He also said he would call when he had some and if I turned him down more than a couple of times, he would not call again. I told him my neighbor who was an old concrete guy would help and it turned out they knew each other. About three days later he calls and said they had a flood control project pour finish and they had 11 yards left over. Want it? yes or no. I said yes and I would call my neighbor but he said he already called him and he was on his way and he would also help. About 30 minutes later the 11 yards was on the ground, the truck was gone and I discovered why you don't see a lot of old guys on cement crews. The other two knew what they were doing. About an hour later, we pulled plastic over the slab and I gave them a cold beer which they said was fair pay for their help. I pulled the plastic off on day 6 and made the stress cuts. I haven't seen any cracks yet. I had framed the slab for 36 feet instead of 33, but considering, I'm not complaining.
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:59 PM   #47
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Slab

Texas) Driveway was 4'' 16000 lb motor home broke up the slab big time. Go 6'' or better and follow advice above.
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:06 PM   #48
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If your base is solid clay -BEWARE, when clay is wet it expands, and when it dries out it contracts. You will have expansion and contraction, and your slab will fail. If your soil is clay you must take special precautions to maintain optimum moisture for the life of the structure or it will probably fail.
There are several items to consider when designing a bearing concrete slab for heavy loads.
One is the base, which the concrete slab will be cast upon. The absolute best base is aggregate base, same as used on freeway construction. Use minimum of four inches thick or six inches. But first excavate down and remove all organic material and compact sub-base to 95% relative compaction. Then place aggregate base.
Construct forms for your slab, minimum four inches thick, but six inches is better. Place #4 or #5 rebar at 18 inches each way, and place them on dobies to make sure the steel stays in ceter of slab. WWF, welded wire fabric is almost a waste of money.
Finally, specify a minimum of six sack cement mix with 3/4" aggregate, not pea gravel aggregate. Ultimate strength of 3000 psi and maximum slump of 4". Place expansion joints at 20 ft on center both directions, and deep tool joints at 5 ft on center each way.
Concrete is extremely strong in compression, but is very weak in tension (pulling). That is why you need to put steel in the slab.
When the wheel rolls on the concrete it tries to deform the concrete by streatching it, but the steel rebar resists that motion, and all is well. However, if the base is not stable the concrete will depress (bend) and will crack.
Cure concrete for 28 days, new concrete will reach 2/3 of ultimate strength at 7 days, but do not drive on it for 28 days. Cure it with water - light spray every hour or two for the first seven days.
Suggest a shovel footing around the perimeter for housekeeping purposes.
Follow the above specifications and you will have a slab that will support your vehicle.
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:04 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlGeo View Post
Suggest a shovel footing around the perimeter for housekeeping purposes.
For those like me could you explain what that is. I know I'll most likely end of feeling foolish when I read the answer but I just have to ask.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:49 AM   #50
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A shovel footing is used to thicken the edge of a slab. Typically the slab is but 4 to 6 inches thick, and depending upon the grade adjacent to the slab, the bottom edge can become exposed after a number of years when the ground erodes away from the slab edge. Not a good thing.
To make a shovel footing just dig a trench typically 12 inches vertical, deep around perimeter of slab x approximately 8 inches wide at bottom and then a 45 degree slope towards middle of slab until line intersects with bottom of slab. It's typically dug with a shovel, not a machine, and therefore called a shovel footing.
It should not used as a load bearing footing to support wall or column loads.
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:14 AM   #51
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Thank you, I did not know that really had a name to it.
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:24 PM   #52
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Picture of the form work

Here are some pictures of the form work being done for our slab to park the MH on. Concrete pour is tomorrow.
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:35 PM   #53
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:04 PM   #54
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Finished slab

Next up building the building. When am I ever gonna get to use my MH?
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Old 03-12-2011, 02:17 PM   #55
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Looks good...
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Old 03-12-2011, 06:24 PM   #56
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I am a retired building inspector, so I hired a good concrete contractor. I told him I wanted a 6" thick pad with #5 rebar reinforcing. I ordered 5000 PSI concrete with NO flyash. Where the 3 leveling pads are, I have 12x12x12 footer pads. It is a 12x40 ft. slab with saw cuts lengthwise and 3 cut crosswise. So far, I have no cracks at all. Our class A is parked there.
Just make it extra strong and you will have no issues. If you go cheap, good luck.
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