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Old 12-28-2012, 08:37 PM   #29
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Congratulation fixing your converter problem.!!!!!

As far as your steps are concerned, see if there is a switch near the door that turns the steps on and off.

The "ignition on" is an interlock so you don,t drive off with the steps out. They will always retract when the key is on and the door is closed no matter what position the on/off switch near the door is .
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:10 AM   #30
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Glad to hear it is putting out power. Just remember somewhere there is a kid who is angry with us MH owners and he is hired to design the most difficult install as anyone can think of. With an eye to a older over weight dude head first in a storage bay who wears glasses and cannot read up close through the upper part of his glasses.

Here is another idea that I have used in two RV's.

From the boom box audio systems that the kids install so they can be deaf when they are our age. A 1 farad capacitor with a built in volt meter in its head. It is installed on the dash between the drivers seat and passengers seat it is wired to the coach batteries through number 8 copper wire. It serves two needs, the first is that some converters do not supply noiseless power, the capacitor filters this out for the most part. Second it provides a digital voltmeter that is hooked to the coach battery bank. by watching that volt meter I know if the converter is in bulk mode, charge mode, or float mode.
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:46 AM   #31
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Thanks for your advice, here is one for you. I am a flyfisherman and I always had a problem wading looking down for safety with bifocals, which I needed to tie on flies. So I had a pair of prescription glasses made with the bifocal at the top, I could see to wade and fish, and I could tie on flies by tilting my head. You might think of a pair for close up work where you have to look over your glasses or tilt your head. I had that same problem working in the Bounder Bay, trying to insert a Maxi fuse into the Converter.
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:12 AM   #32
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Merry Christmas and you have already received a Happy New Year!
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:46 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by willisclarke View Post
Thanks for your advice, here is one for you. I am a flyfisherman and I always had a problem wading looking down for safety with bifocals, which I needed to tie on flies. So I had a pair of prescription glasses made with the bifocal at the top, I could see to wade and fish, and I could tie on flies by tilting my head. You might think of a pair for close up work where you have to look over your glasses or tilt your head. I had that same problem working in the Bounder Bay, trying to insert a Maxi fuse into the Converter.
I knew a carpenter/craftsman who wore"trifocals", (bifocals on both the bottom and on the top).
The top for working overhead, (applying crown molding for example).
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:13 PM   #34
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Eureka! Success (at least mostly), I think. While the Converter was out I replaced both 30A fuses, although only one was obviously blown. I reinstalled, had the house batteries water-filled and charged up to 12.75V, turned on the power, and I am getting 12.6V out of the Converter. Time will tell if everything holds.
Did you mean 13.6VDC instead of 12.6VDC? The PD9100 Series converter without the charge wizard option will put out 13.6VDC continiously. It ramps down current as the load and/or battery SOC is reached. If your are only seeing 12.6VDC then something is wrong. 12.6VDC sounds like a battery at rest, not a converter output.

With the inexpensive optional Charge wizard device, it becomes a 3 stage converter. With the battery fully charged and no system loads (fridge, lights, etc.) the converter output drops to float mode which is the lowest voltage output of the converter (13.2VDC).

Please understand that the constant 13.6VDC value (without charge wizard option) is to high a value for proper battery care as it will slowly boil the battery dry.

Dave
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:06 PM   #35
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No, looks like my saga will continue. There is 110-120V AC input to the Converter, but only 12.6 V DC measured on the output side; same exact voltage as two house batteries; I am measuring with VOM with probes down into cable connectors. I guess I assume that I am measuring the house batteries only and that there is no output from the Converter. Appears I am going to start looking for a new Converter, is the PD9245 a good choice?
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:20 PM   #36
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No, looks like my saga will continue. There is 110-120V AC input to the Converter, but only 12.6 V DC measured on the output side; same exact voltage as two house batteries; I am measuring with VOM with probes down into cable connectors. I guess I assume that I am measuring the house batteries only and that there is no output from the Converter. Appears I am going to start looking for a new Converter, is the PD9245 a good choice?
The PD92XX is one of the best. The 9245 is on sale at Amazon for $139 right now.
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:16 PM   #37
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Wow! Thank you loulong, I would never have thought about going to Amazon for an RV part. I got the PD9245CV Intell-Power 9200 Series 45 Amp Converter/Charger with built-in Charge Wizard (new) for $139. Just out of curiosity I called a local RV Parts supply store here in Sacramento for their price. I was quoted $219 for the PD9245 wo the charger, and $36 for a plug on Charge Wizard. Thats a $116 difference; no wonder we are all going broke.

A BIT OF HUMOR COMES TO MIND. Saw a sign in a local store recently that stated: "No public restrooms here, try Amazon.com."

Happy New Year to you all.

Willis
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:05 PM   #38
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Once you know the part number or model number of what you want to buy, use this site to find out who has the cheapest price. Try it.

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Old 12-30-2012, 09:54 AM   #39
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A BIT OF HUMOR COMES TO MIND. Saw a sign in a local store recently that stated: "No public restrooms here, try Amazon.com."

Happy New Year to you all.

Willis

You know.. the restroom at Amazon.com looks a lot like the one in my RV.. (Wait a sec. IT IS the one in my RV). Happy new year Willis.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:09 AM   #40
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I will be out of town for a few days, will let you all know how things turn out once the new Converter shows up.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:30 AM   #41
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Good to hear you got a good deal on the converter. While not required for the 9200 series, at some point you may want to purchase the pendant also. Allows you to monitor the charge state of the converter as well as control the charge state if you want to (typically not required). I like to monitor the state of charge myself.

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Old 01-03-2013, 06:31 PM   #42
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Its probably too far down the line for any of this groups interest, however, I was out of town for a few days and said I would wrap up when I return. The new PD9245CV Power Converter was waiting for me when I returned, and I installed it today. It works perfectly, putting out 13.67V DC; the house batteries are at full charge, and the chassis battery, which had decayed to 12V, came back up in less than 2 hours. The Pendant which came with the Unit showed the three mode steps as the Converter was doing its job, and the Battery Monitor which I also bought, is giving the results of the chassis battery on a real time basis. I am a little concerned regarding the chassis battery decay, since it is a fairly new Interstate, and I left with the shore power and both Disconnect Switches off. I don't presently know what could cause a "drain" under those conditions, maybe the battery itself.
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