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Old 01-13-2020, 08:08 PM   #1
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Power Outages - 2013 Newmar Dutch Star

We have been experiencing some weird electrical issues with our coach. Normally we can run 2 ACs and dryer along with other electrical appliances and have no issues. Last May, I was drying my hair and had 2 AC's going and the dryer. We experienced a total power outage. It tripped the breaker on the tower - 50 amp service and after troubleshooting - mostly messing with the breakers we had power. We had an electrician come and check the power on the tower...doesn't seem to be an issue but I am not convinced?

Same thing this week...silly me...drying hair, 1 AC on and clothes dryer on. Bam...power down. Within a few minutes the power came back on- no breakers tripped inside coach or at the tower. Since then if we have 1 AC on and run the dryer or even the iron...the power goes out. It has been coming back on within about 5 minutes or so and runs through the surge protector (we have a SurgeGuard on board). We are totally confuzzled about this...is the issue with the power source or the coach? My husband is super handy, however electrical is not his strong suit. We sure would appreciate feedback on this (PS: we will be seeking professional service through a local RV repair shop)...just wondering if anyone has thoughts on this? Thank you!
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Old 01-13-2020, 09:09 PM   #2
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If the powers is going out and coming back on by itself, it has to be the surge guard device.

Its probably sensing low park voltage, at the tower, due to your heavy current draw with allof the devices running.

You need to monitor the voltage levels with all of the things on and see if its getting below 108 volts.

Also track the time of day because your neighbors may be using more power from the parks system too.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:23 PM   #3
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Check into adding a Hughes Autoformer in front of your surge protector. It really helps in a low voltage park.
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Old 01-14-2020, 07:35 AM   #4
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Been there, seen that, got the T-shirt.
Here is your problem in a nutshell.
First I have to ask, how competent are in trouble shooting and working on high voltage stuff, with it off of course? If yo don't feel up to the task then take it to shop and have them do all of this.
1. Shut every thing down and disconnect from Shore power. Open circuit the batteries also.

2. Get your multimeter out along with the necessary tools.

3. Locate your Transfer Switch and open it up.

4. Check the tightness of all the lugs on the Shore Power, Generator, and output to the coach cables.

5. Perform a visual inspection while you are in there. If any of the wires show signs of melted or blackened wires then that is where the wire nuts/screws are loose and you may have damaged the Transfer Switch.

6. Now do the same for the Surge Protector. If any of the wires show signs of blackness or melted covers then replace them.

7. Have you had any issues with the shore Power cable? Are there any black marks on the connector or have you had the end replaced but not the cable?

8. If you said yes to any of the above and/or found that the wires coming into the Surge Protector were loose and/or burnt or melted then yo need to OHM out the Shore Power Cable. You will need to disconnect the ends going into the Surge Protector (Permanent mount type) and OHM out each wire from end to end. Also check wire to wire. Replace cable if bad.

9. Surge Protector may need replacing also at this point also.

10. If you haven't found the culprit between the Transfer box, Surge Protector, and or the Shore Power cable then start going inboard to the main circuit breakers and the wiring leading up to it.

Hopefully this helps. I had to replace my Shore Power Cable and I also replaced the Surge Protector. The Transfer Switch had been replaced earlier and the wires leading up to it were slightly damaged. The year before I had a Dogbone adaptor go bad. I should have replace the Shore Power Cable then. Luckily the Surge Protector shut down power and did it's job.
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Old 01-14-2020, 07:51 AM   #5
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Close dryer, hair dryer A/C. Power going off and on. Sounds like the Surge Guard doing it's job.
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Old 01-14-2020, 08:23 AM   #6
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Good suggestions above and mentioned cord . I would add cord reel's brushes.
The surge protector may be doing its job , but voltage may be dropping across one of your connections mentioned already prior to it.
You should be able to use 5750 watts per leg at 115v .
If the dryer ,hair dryer and AC compressor was starting on same leg you could exceed that until the AC is fully running.
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Old 01-14-2020, 08:24 AM   #7
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Is your coach power cord on an auto-rewind cord reel or do u manually loop it and put back in the storage bay after disconnecting?



Quote:
Originally Posted by SunSeeker7 View Post
We have been experiencing some weird electrical issues with our coach. Normally we can run 2 ACs and dryer along with other electrical appliances and have no issues. Last May, I was drying my hair and had 2 AC's going and the dryer. We experienced a total power outage. It tripped the breaker on the tower - 50 amp service and after troubleshooting - mostly messing with the breakers we had power. We had an electrician come and check the power on the tower...doesn't seem to be an issue but I am not convinced?

Same thing this week...silly me...drying hair, 1 AC on and clothes dryer on. Bam...power down. Within a few minutes the power came back on- no breakers tripped inside coach or at the tower. Since then if we have 1 AC on and run the dryer or even the iron...the power goes out. It has been coming back on within about 5 minutes or so and runs through the surge protector (we have a SurgeGuard on board). We are totally confuzzled about this...is the issue with the power source or the coach? My husband is super handy, however electrical is not his strong suit. We sure would appreciate feedback on this (PS: we will be seeking professional service through a local RV repair shop)...just wondering if anyone has thoughts on this? Thank you!
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Old 01-14-2020, 08:27 AM   #8
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Another possibility is the calibration of the surge guard thinking it sees a certain voltage (and cutting off) whete the actual voltage is higher (and you are “safe”). If you have a remote display for the surge guard, with all appliances off, look at the displayed voltage. Then go out to the pedestal and with a volt meter read the voltage. If there is a difference of 3volts or so, the onboard volt meter of the surgeguard needs to be re calibrated (call surgeguard technical assistance for that)

I had a similar problem on the other side: surgeguard kept cutting off my power saying the shore voltage was too high. Kept slowly getting worse. Verified that the surgeguard was reading too high ... performed the recalibration process when i knew i had an acceptable and stable shore voltage, and all is fine now. Bugged the daylights out of me for several years...
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Old 01-14-2020, 09:07 AM   #9
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seems like everyone forgot the power pedestal tripped the first time,second time came back on by itself. To me this indicates a loose connection in the pedestal. When checked with a multimeter it would appear fine, put a large load on loose connections and heat causes high resistance.That high resistance could cause the pedestal breaker to trip out from higher amp-draw.
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Old 01-14-2020, 09:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
seems like everyone forgot the power pedestal tripped the first time,second time came back on by itself. To me this indicates a loose connection in the pedestal. When checked with a multimeter it would appear fine, put a large load on loose connections and heat causes high resistance.


That high resistance could cause the pedestal breaker to trip out from higher amp-draw.
Loose connection resistance will cause heat but it will not raise the amp draw.

That phenomenon only happens with electric motors under load, not resistance loads.

Resistance Is like running 2 bulbs in series. The bulbs each receive less voltage, and get dim, but the amp draw stays the same.
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Old 01-14-2020, 01:58 PM   #11
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SunSeeker…...Your coach has a Precision Circuits panel in the cabinet above the windshield on the passenger side. It has three buttons. Push the center button and the screen will light up. As you push the other two buttons, you'll scroll through different windows describing your incoming power. You'll get to one that says L1 and L2 voltage (these are the two legs of voltage coming into the coach). More than likely, that voltage will be low, somewhere around 105 volts or less. You should be seeing 115+ volts. If the panel, shows the lower numbers, you're having issues with low voltage.
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Old 01-14-2020, 02:54 PM   #12
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Might be a case of slightly weak breakers. Lots of power being used. Dryer 20 amps, ac units 15 amps each. Hair dryer 12 amps so there could be 47 amps on one leg. An old 50 amp breaker might trip after a bit.
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Old 01-15-2020, 03:05 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray,IN View Post
seems like everyone forgot the power pedestal tripped the first time,second time came back on by itself. To me this indicates a loose connection in the pedestal. When checked with a multimeter it would appear fine, put a large load on loose connections and heat causes high resistance.That high resistance could cause the pedestal breaker to trip out from higher amp-draw.
that is the confusing part. Tripped ped cannot reset it's self.
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Old 01-15-2020, 03:16 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
SunSeeker…...Your coach has a Precision Circuits panel in the cabinet above the windshield on the passenger side. It has three buttons. Push the center button and the screen will light up. As you push the other two buttons, you'll scroll through different windows describing your incoming power. You'll get to one that says L1 and L2 voltage (these are the two legs of voltage coming into the coach). More than likely, that voltage will be low, somewhere around 105 volts or less. You should be seeing 115+ volts. If the panel, shows the lower numbers, you're having issues with low voltage.
Well, now we have new game in town. If the Precision Circuits Panel is the one I have recently read about, it is a load sheading device. (IF labeled EMS) How would that have allowed the 50 amp ped to trip
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