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Old 02-26-2016, 05:55 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Cat320 View Post
I do my coach once a year, have never used a power buffer and am too old to start now. My coach and cars get buffed by hand...over all might take longer, but it's easier to get in the corners, around windows and slides, etc.
In the past that is the way I have done it. I'm not happy with the results so I feel it's time to up my game to an orbital polisher as I stated in my first post. I'm also looking for the best pads and wax/polish to use in my particular case. If this process turns out to be a failure at least I will have tried.
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Old 02-26-2016, 06:07 PM   #30
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I do my coach once a year, have never used a power buffer and am too old to start now. My coach and cars get buffed by hand...over all might take longer, but it's easier to get in the corners, around windows and slides, etc.
I really do not want to sound like a know it all here, I am trying to provide clarity. So, please do not take this as a rude question; what do you mean by "buffed by hand"? "Buffing" a vehicle, is a very miss-used / miss-understood term. I assume you mean either applying and or removing a wax or polish?

You can apply a wax by hand, and some can be applied using a machine as has been discussed here. I apply wax by hand on my cars, using my Flex on the coach, but there are still spots you need to do by hand. I picked a wax for the coach that was easy to use with a machine, because I think using a machine with a 6" pad is easier for me. However, I will also say, for some just the weight of a machine may make it a challenge to use.

I have used my machine to apply wax on cars, but no longer use waxes on my cars that I would apply that way. So I look at wax application by hand or machine simply a matter of personal preference.

Polishing generally requires a machine. Yes, it can be done by hand, but you are not going to get much paint correction (removing defccts / swirls) doing it that way, other than working a very small section (think square inches, not square feet). It would take a very long time and be extremely hard work to polish a MH by hand (I can't even being to think of what it would take) to get a marginal improvement in appearance.

Very very high level show or rare collector vehicles may be polished by hand, but that is an entirely different level expectations and needs.

I have never removed either wax or polish by machine, only by hand. There are some pad covers that can be used to remove them, but I have never gone that route and never really found a compelling reason to do it that way......

Hopefully this was helpful, and did not come off as an arrogant response.

Regards
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Old 02-27-2016, 12:49 PM   #31
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...what do you mean by "buffed by hand"?...
I guess the easiest way to explain what I do is to say I put on the polish/wax and take it off by hand...no power equipment involved.
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Old 02-28-2016, 02:48 AM   #32
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Power Polisher ??

The absolute best is Cyclo (http://www.cyclotoolmakers.com/polishers.php). Not cheap, last forever, never burn paint and easy to use.
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:49 AM   #33
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The absolute best is Cyclo (Cyclo Polishers). Not cheap, last forever, never burn paint and easy to use.
Oh yes, I would love to have one............. but then I'd have to replace hundreds of dollars of pads too . I had to draw the line somewhere when I replaced my PC with the Flex. .

The two smaller pads make working some surfaces, particularly concave surfaces (like the tops of the rear fenders on a first generation Porsche Cayman), much easier than a single 6" pad.

Not sure how a Cyco would be working all the vertical surfaces on a MH though...... Have you used one one on an RV? Just curious......

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Old 02-29-2016, 10:32 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl View Post
I really do not want to sound like a know it all here, I am trying to provide clarity. So, please do not take this as a rude question; what do you mean by "buffed by hand"? "Buffing" a vehicle, is a very miss-used / miss-understood term. I assume you mean either applying and or removing a wax or polish?

You can apply a wax by hand, and some can be applied using a machine as has been discussed here. I apply wax by hand on my cars, using my Flex on the coach, but there are still spots you need to do by hand. I picked a wax for the coach that was easy to use with a machine, because I think using a machine with a 6" pad is easier for me. However, I will also say, for some just the weight of a machine may make it a challenge to use.

I have used my machine to apply wax on cars, but no longer use waxes on my cars that I would apply that way. So I look at wax application by hand or machine simply a matter of personal preference.

Polishing generally requires a machine. Yes, it can be done by hand, but you are not going to get much paint correction (removing defccts / swirls) doing it that way, other than working a very small section (think square inches, not square feet). It would take a very long time and be extremely hard work to polish a MH by hand (I can't even being to think of what it would take) to get a marginal improvement in appearance.

Very very high level show or rare collector vehicles may be polished by hand, but that is an entirely different level expectations and needs.

I have never removed either wax or polish by machine, only by hand. There are some pad covers that can be used to remove them, but I have never gone that route and never really found a compelling reason to do it that way......

Hopefully this was helpful, and did not come off as an arrogant response.

Regards
Amazing what one can learn when venturing off the section of the forum one normally visits. I've been using a Griot 5" RO polisher for years and always thought it was great for an amateur like myself. Yes, I've polished my whole coach with it, and it took DAYS. I'm ordering the Flex! Any advice for the amateur? No, I don't think your posts were condescending. Lots of good info there.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:17 AM   #35
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Amazing what one can learn when venturing off the section of the forum one normally visits. I've been using a Griot 5" RO polisher for years and always thought it was great for an amateur like myself. Yes, I've polished my whole coach with it, and it took DAYS. I'm ordering the Flex! Any advice for the amateur? No, I don't think your posts were condescending. Lots of good info there.
Thanks for your kind comment. I have generally stayed away from detailing threads here, but I decided to jump in on this one. You'll find the Flex can really make a difference where you have to really work the paint to get out heavier swirl marks. You can crank up the speed, and put a lot of pressure on it and it does not bog down.

With that, you can burn hard edges with it, such as a panel gap or a crease in a fender, so if you are really working the paint hard, you either need to tape them off (just use painters tape, the softer tack the better) to protect that spot or back off on the Flex speed and pressure.

The other thing that helps with more difficult paint corrections are microfiber pads which almost all the detailing shops have these days. Also remember, if you are using a heavier polish, you need to do a second cut with a finer / finishing polish with an appropriate pad. I noted above the polish I am using from Griot's, as it is fine for a one cut polish on a MH; if I ever need to do more on a spot than that, I"ll just use a heavier polish / finish polish on that spot. I'm not doing a 2 step polish on my full coach..........

You can find some good detailing videos on Adams car care web site; I'm not in 100% agreement with everything they show, but detailing is like religion, so nobody is going to agree with everyone thing someone else says . Adam's Polishes | Premium Car Care Supplies. Adams used to sell the Flex, but when the company that made the Flex was bought by a company outside the US a couple years ago, he dropped it; Adams really pushes "Made the USA" (good for them, but maybe a little extreme in this case) and while I understand the Flex still is, the parent company is no longer.....

Griot's Garage also used to have a detailers handbook, which was I found to be very valuable.

One last tip, is to use a detailing spray while you dry your RV / car. It will lubricate your towel, reduce swirl marks from drying, and add a bit of shine after each wash. Spray it on the wet surface before you wipe it with your towel; for higher areas that you have to use a towel on a pole, use a drying towel that is already damp and spray the towel with detailing spray as well.

I washed the coach yesterday, only took 4 hours. Back today to start polishing and waxing where I left off.

Good luck and have fun!
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:39 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl View Post
Thanks for your kind comment. I have generally stayed away from detailing threads here, but I decided to jump in on this one. You'll find the Flex can really make a difference where you have to really work the paint to get out heavier swirl marks. You can crank up the speed, and put a lot of pressure on it and it does not bog down.

With that, you can burn hard edges with it, such as a panel gap or a crease in a fender, so if you are really working the paint hard, you either need to tape them off (just use painters tape, the softer tack the better) to protect that spot or back off on the Flex speed and pressure.

The other thing that helps with more difficult paint corrections are microfiber pads which almost all the detailing shops have these days. Also remember, if you are using a heavier polish, you need to do a second cut with a finer / finishing polish with an appropriate pad. I noted above the polish I am using from Griot's, as it is fine for a one cut polish on a MH; if I ever need to do more on a spot than that, I"ll just use a heavier polish / finish polish on that spot. I'm not doing a 2 step polish on my full coach..........

You can find some good detailing videos on Adams car care web site; I'm not in 100% agreement with everything they show, but detailing is like religion, so nobody is going to agree with everyone thing someone else says . Adam's Polishes | Premium Car Care Supplies. Adams used to sell the Flex, but when the company that made the Flex was bought by a company outside the US a couple years ago, he dropped it; Adams really pushes "Made the USA" (good for them, but maybe a little extreme in this case) and while I understand the Flex still is, the parent company is no longer.....

Griot's Garage also used to have a detailers handbook, which was I found to be very valuable.

One last tip, is to use a detailing spray while you dry your RV / car. It will lubricate your towel, reduce swirl marks from drying, and add a bit of shine after each wash. Spray it on the wet surface before you wipe it with your towel; for higher areas that you have to use a towel on a pole, use a drying towel that is already damp and spray the towel with detailing spray as well.

I washed the coach yesterday, only took 4 hours. Back today to start polishing and waxing where I left off.

Good luck and have fun!
Just received my FLEX polisher. What a machine! I'm leaving on a trip in the morning, so I can't use it just yet, but I can't wait! I notice you are in GA. Any chance you are going to be at the Moultrie, GA area during the Monaco Pre-rally before Perry? I'd like to meet you. If not, thanks for the tip on the FLEX polisher and other info. I'll be back in NC by Mar 21, and will try the machine on my coach using Griot orange pads and Machine Polish #3.

I was always content with the Griot RO polisher. But this is surely a step up. I'll have to be careful with it my first time--it appears it could be a good bit more aggressive. The paint on my 2000 Dynasty is in amazingly good shape, but if there is enough clear coat thickness, this polisher might enable me to get a significantly smoother shine on it.

I also remove the wheels and polish them occasionally. Looks like this FLEX might be good for that as well.

Thanks for the tips!
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:00 AM   #37
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Just received my FLEX polisher. What a machine! I'm leaving on a trip in the morning, so I can't use it just yet, but I can't wait! I notice you are in GA. Any chance you are going to be at the Moultrie, GA area during the Monaco Pre-rally before Perry? I'd like to meet you. If not, thanks for the tip on the FLEX polisher and other info. I'll be back in NC by Mar 21, and will try the machine on my coach using Griot orange pads and Machine Polish #3.

I was always content with the Griot RO polisher. But this is surely a step up. I'll have to be careful with it my first time--it appears it could be a good bit more aggressive. The paint on my 2000 Dynasty is in amazingly good shape, but if there is enough clear coat thickness, this polisher might enable me to get a significantly smoother shine on it.

I also remove the wheels and polish them occasionally. Looks like this FLEX might be good for that as well.

Thanks for the tips!
Not a Monoco owner, so won't be at that rally. Not doing Perry FMCA either, living in GA, spending a week in Perry just doesn't rank high on my list of places to go. We thought about it, just because, but decided to skip it. We lived in Chapel Hill for a few years too......

Maybe we'll cross paths of the road, love to talk detailing!!!!!!

We'll be up in Dillard, GA next week right on the NC border. Need to de-winterize and get everything else on the coach back in order for this year..

You'll really find the Flex makes a difference working the paint, but it does get a bit heavy on longer polishing session working the big vertical surfaces on a MH.

Pulling wheels on my cars to clean them is something I have done regularly, but not getting into pulling the wheels on the coach!

I finished my first exterior detailing of th MH last week, which required 2 multi day sessions.

First Session in FL, mid Dec.
Scrubbed roof, 3 hours
Wash the coach, 5 hours
Polish then wax using products noted previously - lower 40%, 2 days, 10 hrs

Second session last week.
Wash, 5 hours
Polish then wax rest of the coach, 3 days, 15 hours

It looks fantastic........, and while I love doing this, I am so happy I don't have some huge DP .

Regards!
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:32 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Betr2Trvl View Post
Not a Monoco owner, so won't be at that rally. Not doing Perry FMCA either, living in GA, spending a week in Perry just doesn't rank high on my list of places to go. We thought about it, just because, but decided to skip it. We lived in Chapel Hill for a few years too......

Maybe we'll cross paths of the road, love to talk detailing!!!!!!

We'll be up in Dillard, GA next week right on the NC border. Need to de-winterize and get everything else on the coach back in order for this year..

You'll really find the Flex makes a difference working the paint, but it does get a bit heavy on longer polishing session working the big vertical surfaces on a MH.

Pulling wheels on my cars to clean them is something I have done regularly, but not getting into pulling the wheels on the coach!

I finished my first exterior detailing of th MH last week, which required 2 multi day sessions.

First Session in FL, mid Dec.
Scrubbed roof, 3 hours
Wash the coach, 5 hours
Polish then wax using products noted previously - lower 40%, 2 days, 10 hrs

Second session last week.
Wash, 5 hours
Polish then wax rest of the coach, 3 days, 15 hours

It looks fantastic........, and while I love doing this, I am so happy I don't have some huge DP .

Regards!

Don't know your age, but I'll be 70 this year and crawling around on the roof is now out of my wheelhouse. Luckily, I discovered "Mr Clean Magic Eraser" a few years ago while watching a detailing crew at a site next door. They make a product that mounts on a sponge mop handle that will clean up about 95% of your roof. Since I started doing this, I can clean my roof & apply a couple of coats of the protectant of your choice in a couple of hours. This includes drying time. Much easier on the old joints.
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Old 03-08-2016, 08:21 AM   #39
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Don't know your age, but I'll be 70 this year and crawling around on the roof is now out of my wheelhouse. Luckily, I discovered "Mr Clean Magic Eraser" a few years ago while watching a detailing crew at a site next door. They make a product that mounts on a sponge mop handle that will clean up about 95% of your roof. Since I started doing this, I can clean my roof & apply a couple of coats of the protectant of your choice in a couple of hours. This includes drying time. Much easier on the old joints.
Steve, you do have me by a few years, but in any case with regards to my roof cleaning, or scrubbing as it was, I'll start with this. I HATE heights, and I do not like being on the roof of the coach at all, much less if it is wet, or wet with soapy water.

Anyway, this was really the first time I had really scrubbed it down.

I had rinsed it off a couple times, and washed it once using a my long handle with one of my micro fiber pads and car wash, and was scared to death being on the roof when it was wet, x10 with soapy water on it. I luckily had a soft foam pad to work from that keeps you from sliding (like guys use working on steep roofs)because my roof is really slick when wet, but I did not do a very good job because I just wanted to get off the roof. I think I am going to add some non slip to the roof (like you put in a bath tub) for safety's sake.

So, when I did it in Dec. I did a 2'x2' section at a time, using a bucket with some all natural cleaning spray, and scrubed and dried each section. I was sitting on the foam pad, kind of like Cinderella scrubbing the floor...... I felt a lot better working up there sitting down, and sitting on that foam pad that keeps you firmly in place, even if it gets some water under it. In fact, I had a couple of pads so I could move from one to the other......

It had a lot of gunk on it from when it was built, so a lot of scrubbing involved, and I used a bit of Bon Ami on some of the bad spots.

Now that I have it that clean, all I need to do is wipe it down, but I'll still just use the bucket method sitting on the pad, but I guess it I'll only take me an hour now that it is clean.

Regards
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:31 PM   #40
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Steve, you do have me by a few years, but in any case with regards to my roof cleaning, or scrubbing as it was, I'll start with this. I HATE heights, and I do not like being on the roof of the coach at all, much less if it is wet, or wet with soapy water.

Anyway, this was really the first time I had really scrubbed it down.

I had rinsed it off a couple times, and washed it once using a my long handle with one of my micro fiber pads and car wash, and was scared to death being on the roof when it was wet, x10 with soapy water on it. I luckily had a soft foam pad to work from that keeps you from sliding (like guys use working on steep roofs)because my roof is really slick when wet, but I did not do a very good job because I just wanted to get off the roof. I think I am going to add some non slip to the roof (like you put in a bath tub) for safety's sake.

So, when I did it in Dec. I did a 2'x2' section at a time, using a bucket with some all natural cleaning spray, and scrubed and dried each section. I was sitting on the foam pad, kind of like Cinderella scrubbing the floor...... I felt a lot better working up there sitting down, and sitting on that foam pad that keeps you firmly in place, even if it gets some water under it. In fact, I had a couple of pads so I could move from one to the other......

It had a lot of gunk on it from when it was built, so a lot of scrubbing involved, and I used a bit of Bon Ami on some of the bad spots.

Now that I have it that clean, all I need to do is wipe it down, but I'll still just use the bucket method sitting on the pad, but I guess it I'll only take me an hour now that it is clean.

Regards
D:

If you dislike being on a roof as much as I do, let me offer you a tip. Go onto your roof with a non-slip knee pad, a spray bottle of "Greased Lightning" (or equivalent alkaline cleaner) and a full roll of paper towels. Spray a small section of roof, give it a minute to act, wipe it off with the paper towels, wad up the towels and throw them over the side. The high-alkaline cleaners do an AMAZING job of cleaning the gelcoat to snowy whiteness. I've tried Bon Ami, Bartender's Friend, Soft Scrub, etc., aided by my Griot RO polisher. Nothing even came CLOSE to the speed and ease with which the alkaline cleaners will do. The caveat to using them is that you MUST NOT let them dribble down the side of the coach. Their severe cleaning power will leave ugly streaks down the side of your coach that require a lot of polishing to remove.

Once you have the top of your coach snowy white, clean it with soapy water
and rinse it well. When it has dried, coat the gelcoat portion of the roof with Zep High Traffic Floor Finish. I did this three years ago on my coach, and 30,000 miles later it is still shiny and snowy white. I expect to have to renew the Zep, but it does not appear to need it yet.
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:47 PM   #41
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I really do not want to sound like a know it all here, I am trying to provide clarity. So, please do not take this as a rude question; what do you mean by "buffed by hand"? "Buffing" a vehicle, is a very miss-used / miss-understood term. I assume you mean either applying and or removing a wax or polish?

You can apply a wax by hand, and some can be applied using a machine as has been discussed here. I apply wax by hand on my cars, using my Flex on the coach, but there are still spots you need to do by hand. I picked a wax for the coach that was easy to use with a machine, because I think using a machine with a 6" pad is easier for me. However, I will also say, for some just the weight of a machine may make it a challenge to use.

I have used my machine to apply wax on cars, but no longer use waxes on my cars that I would apply that way. So I look at wax application by hand or machine simply a matter of personal preference.

Polishing generally requires a machine. Yes, it can be done by hand, but you are not going to get much paint correction (removing defccts / swirls) doing it that way, other than working a very small section (think square inches, not square feet). It would take a very long time and be extremely hard work to polish a MH by hand (I can't even being to think of what it would take) to get a marginal improvement in appearance.

Very very high level show or rare collector vehicles may be polished by hand, but that is an entirely different level expectations and needs.

I have never removed either wax or polish by machine, only by hand. There are some pad covers that can be used to remove them, but I have never gone that route and never really found a compelling reason to do it that way......

Hopefully this was helpful, and did not come off as an arrogant response.

Regards
I am going to put my 2 cents in here and say I agree with everything you say. I am very much like you when it comes to taking care of my vehicles and use the flex random orbital polisher on my cars and motorhome. It is on the heavy side and takes me at least a week to detail the outside using both a sealant then a wax.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:12 PM   #42
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