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Old 08-18-2011, 08:18 PM   #15
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I had a bad connection in my shoreline plug. My Surge Guard shut that power source down until I got it fixed. Plugs will wear out over time and need replacing. I had mine for five years, wouldn't be without it.
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:58 PM   #16
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I have used both TRC and Progressive units. I prefer the additional info provided with the Progressive EMS-PT50C

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Old 08-18-2011, 11:08 PM   #17
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A power surge protector was one of the first things I bought for our MH. I researched them considerably, and ended up buying one from Progressive Industries.

It is in my opinion that those that do NOT have this equipment enjoy playing "Russian Roulette".



It's relatively cheap, considering what it does and the cost of all the appliances it's protecting....
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Old 08-19-2011, 01:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacekeeper6 View Post
A power surge protector was one of the first things I bought for our MH. I researched them considerably, and ended up buying one from Progressive Industries.

It is in my opinion that those that do NOT have this equipment enjoy playing "Russian Roulette".



It's relatively cheap, considering what it does and the cost of all the appliances it's protecting....
I've been playing "Russian Roulette" since 1957 and haven't lost yet!
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Old 08-21-2011, 01:33 AM   #19
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I too, am an advocate of the Progressive Industries unit. I have the EMS-HW50C. While it's certainly a good "surge protector", it also protects from under and over voltage situations as well as wiring faults, inadvertent 240 volt mis-wiring, etc. The internal surge protection circuitry is replaceable separately if it gets zapped. Most manufacturers use the same MOVs in their units, with the higher quality devices just paralleling more of them for higher joule ratings. There is a really big price difference between plain old surge protectors and these energy management type devices. A surge-only protector would have been no help in the 240 volt scenario you mentioned.

Its pretty much a crap-shoot whether you'll survive a lightning near-miss, or even a severe surge, but the additional energy management features of this unit make me breathe easier when I flip the breakers on in the pedestal.

The unit is a little pricey, but good insurance overall. I installed the permanent wired-in model, but others have reported that the portable units work just as well. I have never personally heard or read of a portable unit being stolen, but that seems to be the only negative about the portables. Having a permanent unit forces you to use it each time, while you might be tempted to skip it "just this one time" for an overnighter. Being a techie, I like the display of the parameters it shows even though some of them are rather useless. What could I do if the line frequency was too high or low, short of disconnecting? The unit does that for me anyway.

Do shop around for whatever unit you purchase. I found a tremendous difference in prices when I bought mine.

The most important info to be gleaned from here is GET ONE!


Just an aside here, Wiki says one joule is equivalent to the energy produced by an apple falling 3 feet to a crash landing. go figure...

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Old 08-21-2011, 01:53 AM   #20
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Must be from the same guy that calculated Horse Power
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Old 08-21-2011, 05:22 AM   #21
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I've been playing "Russian Roulette" since 1957 and haven't lost yet!
If that's the case, then hopefully, we won't be reading your sad story anytime soon in an iRV2.com post about losing any of your electronics and expensive devices on board your coach. Or worse yet, have your coach burn to the ground. You most likely would not post it anyway.

I've been RVing for over 40 years, and have learned a lot since then. However, for anyone that is going to spend thousands or hundreds of thousands of dollars for a coach, RV, 5ver, there are TWO very important devices that everyone should buy and install FIRST. A Progressive Industries EMS system and a tire pressure monitoring system. Anything after that is optional.

Only my opinion. It is up to each individual whether to invest this well spent money or take the risk. It's the same as buying an insurance policy; Was the money worth it when your house burns down from an electrical fire? Only you can decide.

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Old 08-21-2011, 08:10 AM   #22
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Just wondering why most everyone says to stay away from TRC Surge Guard. I have a TRC and would be interested to know what is wrong with them. I'm not being sarcastic, I just would like to know if I waisted a couple hundred bucks on a bad investment.
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:15 PM   #23
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Mostly because people are comparing things they know nothing about, and are also comparing Apples and Oranges. Clearly TRC has the portable market. But when you look at the installed units, (and I'm on an IPhone so I can't look up exact numbers) some will say that the TRC has 2500 Joule rating but the Progressive has 2510 (or whatever..). The numbers these days if you look at the models out for the last several years are insignificant at these levels. Do the math and look at the percentages.

Warranty: OK, maybe. But my TRC is long gone and it's still running and out of this discussion. Golly, it's even outlasted the Progressive warranty

Serviceability: The Progressive touts plug-in modules vs. Direct wire on the MOV's. Haven't looked in to a Progressive in several years, but frankly unless these are really robust sockets, having my MOV's on the other side of some connector that can fail faster than the MOV's themselves during a max load surge event makes me a tad nervous. I want those suckers firmly tied to incoming shore power to adsorb anything coming down the line.

If and when mine needs service I'll deal with it then, but I carry 3ea. 6ga in-line splices that allows me to pull the entire unit completely out if needed. Did I mention it already surpassed warranty?

Remote panels: This is where I was swung over to TRC. The Progressive panel is a black box that might look fine in a bay or closet, but not in the coach. The TRC is a backlit panel that flush mounts into the wall and has a built-in auto dimmer so it's easily seen and completely un-intrusive day or night, and beautiful once installed. The display also speaks in plain English as to the condition of both phases in any given circumstance, you don't need a PF Flyer magic decoder ring to figure it out.

Had the Progressive had a more ergonomic panel and compatible display I would have bought it. Because Apples to Apples, functionality is the same all the way down the list. But I still don't like plug-in MOV's.... sorry.
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Old 08-21-2011, 09:29 PM   #24
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I've been playing "Russian Roulette" since 1957 and haven't lost yet!
Is it worth $250 for piece of mind that something won't fry my electronics or even have my coach burn into the ground ?

Yeah, you're damn right it is.



And this is what I don't get. People spend THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS of dollars on their RVs and related electronic equipment, and yet, they don't even care to buy something so cheap (relatively speaking) to protect their investment(s).

But whatever. If you can sleep soundly about your decision, more power to you.



I sleep like a baby myself....

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Old 08-22-2011, 12:14 AM   #25
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Remote panels: This is where I was swung over to TRC. The Progressive panel is a black box that might look fine in a bay or closet, but not in the coach. The TRC is a backlit panel that flush mounts into the wall and has a built-in auto dimmer so it's easily seen and completely un-intrusive day or night, and beautiful once installed. The display also speaks in plain English as to the condition of both phases in any given circumstance, you don't need a PF Flyer magic decoder ring to figure it out.

While I'm partial to my PI unit, I will agree that the remote display leaves a lot to be desired. I had to print the portion of the instructions which interprets the cryptic display readings in case I ever have an error condition. So far I haven't had to use it, but a decoder ring would be handier than my laminated sheet.

Also the remote display connects to the main box via a "telephone" modular wire. It looks like a regular telephone wire but the user is cautioned not to use an extension other than the PI cable. As it turns out, the connectors and cable are the same as a regular phone wire, but with the conductors in a different order. I know there must be a reason for this, and I hope it isn't just to sell specialty cables. I made my own and it works fine, but they didn't have to make it so user unfriendly.

Overall my experience has been positive, but you've got me wondering if I should have investigated more thoroughly before selecting this one. I suppose if all our electronics keep working, we're both golden.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:20 AM   #26
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TRC uses the same RJ-11 cable, but I don't remember if it was straight through or flipped.
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:54 AM   #27
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Is it worth $250 for piece of mind that something won't fry my electronics or even have my coach burn into the ground ?

Yeah, you're damn right it is.



And this is what I don't get. People spend THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS of dollars on their RVs and related electronic equipment, and yet, they don't even care to buy something so cheap (relatively speaking) to protect their investment(s).

But whatever. If you can sleep soundly about your decision, more power to you.



I sleep like a baby myself....

Agrees, that was kinda silly statement considering all there was in any trailer, etc. Was an incandescent light that can take almost literally anything. Let's talk about all the electronics starting 10'ish years ago: DSS, smarter microwaves, computers, fridge control boards, complex inverter/ chargers, not to mention all the TV's carried these days. I fail to see what 1957 thru 1990 or maybe later technology has to do with current day demands and needs?
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:56 AM   #28
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PS- sorry about the spelling, the iPhone app has no way to edit
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