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Old 08-22-2011, 05:15 AM   #29
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I have my MH at a Encore campground for 3 weeks, and numerous times I've lost power and my TRC 50 reset. This past weekend, I returned aftr 10 pm to a 100 degree coach. The power was lost in one leg and my unit responded by shutting down. Yes I am happy with the protector, and unhappy this happened.
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Old 08-22-2011, 05:16 AM   #30
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Point well taken regarding the electronics on today's coaches. My first RV was a 1988 Class C and the only expensive electronics was a Tv and the AC. I wouldn't even think about Rving without a surge protection. BTW I have the portable Surge Guard and have no issues with it. It has shut off when voltage in a campground was too low just like it was suppose to. Mistake I made several years ago was with my trailer ( 2004 ) when we were seasonals. Figured that since we were seasonal and didn't move around once I known that the pedestal was ok I would be fine. WRONG! On a very hot summer day while we spent the day pool side we didn't know that the campground was experiencing a brown out. The lower power brunt out my 3 year old AC unit on the trailer. Always have a surge guard. The only thing I would do different is to have it hard wired vs. portable. If and when mine unit dies I would go with Surge Guard or Progressive depending on the price point and features at that time. For what it's worth I agree with the previous writer. I two must have add on's with todays RV's are surege protection and a tpms. Everthing else is fluff.
Just my 2 cents.
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Old 08-22-2011, 11:59 AM   #31
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I once lost an air conditioner to a spike,, That was all. I now have spike supression.

One rule all should follow.. Other than a properly licensed RV park or a 30 amp outlet you have tested and KNOW for a fact is properly wired. (And if you do not presonally own that outlet do not assume it has not been "Upgraded" in your absence)

TEST BEFORE YOU PLUG IN. epically on 30 amp outlets.. Most of what look like TT-30 (Outside of RV parks) are wired for Air Compressors or Welders or Dryers or other 240 volt devices and plugging into one can be kind of expensive.
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Old 08-22-2011, 12:35 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by HarleyWJones View Post
Also the remote display connects to the main box via a "telephone" modular wire. It looks like a regular telephone wire but the user is cautioned not to use an extension other than the PI cable. As it turns out, the connectors and cable are the same as a regular phone wire, but with the conductors in a different order. I know there must be a reason for this, and I hope it isn't just to sell specialty cables. I made my own and it works fine, but they didn't have to make it so user unfriendly.
The remote display is enabled by a modular cable that is actually a data cable. The cable is pinned straight through unlike a telephone cable that reverses pins. A Telco cable will not work. The cable is similiar to an RJ45 ethernet cable where all 6 conductors run straight through.

I don't see where anything is cryptic on the display UNLESS it issues anything other that E0 (Nothing wrong) The 10 error codes that the Progressive unit does warn you of tells you exactly what the problem is. For most people the definition of the code and what to do about it is challenging even if the code were displayed in plain language. The PI by the way remembers the last trouble codes.

Looking at my PI unit it tells me the L1 & L2 voltage and current load. It tell me the frequency 60HZ and then it displays the E0. Nothing cryptic about this in fact it's very simple and gives me immediately the info I need.

The error codes and what to do about the condition are fully explained in the owners manual.

A detailed explaination of what a Progressive unit does is posted here.
120 Volt Electrical Protection: Part I - Progressive Industries EMS
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:08 AM   #33
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Really? You don't consider all those 'E' codes cryptic? I certainly had no clue what any of that meant until I just went to look at the manual, and I sure wouldn't remember what any of them were without referencing a card when they come up. It's anything but plain English. The pic below shows exactly what the screen on the TRC remote will display under any condition (far right). Even though I created this in excel and laminated it, I have yet to need to pull it out since the display clearly tells me whats going on. THAT's plain English.

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Old 08-23-2011, 05:58 AM   #34
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Surge Guard for me. It's operated several times in the past 10 years or so, saving a lot of expense and hassle.
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:37 AM   #35
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...The 10 error codes that the Progressive unit does warn you of tells you exactly what the problem is. For most people the definition of the code and what to do about it is challenging even if the code were displayed in plain language. The PI by the way remembers the last trouble codes...
DriVer,

Thanks for the additional insight and information about the PI unit. The link you provided was excellent, but I found an even greater gem in another part of your post - your signature.

I noticed the EMS-HW50C link in your sig. I followed it to its website. On the left side of the page under "Electrical Protection" there is a link to "Error Codes". On the resulting page is exactly the info I need for my laminated card. (I know you say a cheat-sheet isn't needed, but during a failure are you really going to remember what a code E-7 is? My memory just isn't that good.) Also there is information at the bottom of that page that I didn't know about the device. It says,

"If you have any existing (happening right now) error code related to voltage or frequency (E-3 thru E-8) the information display panel will reveal the actual numeric value of the fault, as well as identify which incoming line is affected."

I have not been able to find that info either on the PI website or in the manual I have. I guess I'll have to wait for a fault condition to see if that's the way it works.

One last thought... On the PI website there are two links to the EMS-HW50C manual. At first glance they seem to be redundant, but they are different. One is a much better quality pdf than the other. One is rather fuzzy, the other is clear. The two different links are:

http://www.progressiveindustries.net/manuals/EMS-HW50C.pdf for the good one,

and

http://www.progressiveindustries.net/manuals/HW50C.pdf for the not so good one.
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Old 08-31-2011, 05:20 PM   #36
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Well, just finished our first long 2500 mile roundtrip to texas and back with a bunch of frustration. We pulled into my father-in-laws house who was suppose to have a 30 amp receptacle awaiting us, even though he did, he had 220 volts going to it. After a lot of prayers, we actually only ended up frying 2 lcd tv's and the power converter/charger. I thought that both ac's were gone along with the microwave and tv's but fortunantly we had nothing running when we plugged the juice to it. I should have listened to you experienced rv'ers when you wrote how important it was to purchase a surge protector, but now I'm definetly shopping around for one. Just wanted a little input on what brands have worked best for ya'll and I appreciate your response.
If you are interested in a surge protector for your RV, here is some information you need to know. A well known brand, Surge Guard®, manufactured by Technology Research Corporation (TRC) in Clearwater, Florida, offers several different models both portable and installed. They come with a one year limited warranty. The problem with the Surge Guard® is the manufacturer does not offer a repair program. If your unit fails during the one year warranty, they will replace it with a new or refurbished one. However, if it fails after one year you are out of luck. The manufacturer WILL NOT repair the unit. You may as well throw it away.
I purchased a portable unit, Model 34750, which cost about $400. It failed in less than two years. I discussed the failure with TRC’s tech support and their warranty manager. I was told by the warranty manager my unit was not under warranty and that NO REPAIR on that model was offered by TRC. Sorry.
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Old 08-31-2011, 05:31 PM   #37
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Really? You don't consider all those 'E' codes cryptic?
So Jeff - I guess that's a "No Code" ham license that you hold.


BTW, I do agree that plain English is a bit nicer than a code readout, but it could be a whole lot worse - They could use ICONS.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:31 AM   #38
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So Jeff - I guess that's a "No Code" ham license that you hold.
As a matter of fact it is.. I'm also the guy that builds the repeaters and hi-power remote base stations, climbs towers that the old farts cant or won't, hand build the control systems that run all this gear, and spend tens of thousands of my own money for others to communicate. I'm one of the very few that owns and maintains all these systems across the country that others use for free and never consider where the financial support comes from. I trust you don't have a problem with that? What do you do for the hobby?
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:30 PM   #39
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As a matter of fact it is.. I'm also the guy that builds the repeaters and hi-power remote base stations, climbs towers that the old farts cant or won't, hand build the control systems that run all this gear, and spend tens of thousands of my own money for others to communicate. I'm one of the very few that owns and maintains all these systems across the country that others use for free and never consider where the financial support comes from. I trust you don't have a problem with that? What do you do for the hobby?
Not sure if I have used one of your repeaters.. but, if so.. Thanks a bunch.
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